5rebel9

Have you PHYSICALLY gotten back to the battery cable ends and made sure the terminals were tight to the battery posts yet? There has been a longstanding problem of posts and terminals NOT being of same size and although the nuts tighten down , the terminal is still loose on the post. This WILL cause electrical problems and should be the FIRST thing to do to diagnose your problem. YES I know it is a royal pain to do, as I have 3 DJ's in my "stable" to care for. Then check the wires on the starter solenoid for clean rust/corrosion free connection. ALSO when you replaced the battery before, did you clean the the terminal holes to get rid of any corrosion build up? Todays battery and cable ends DO NOT display the nasty cauliflower yuck of past times, They instead now form a hard "shellac buildup in the terminal holes.

YUP! There ARE times that I WISH we could move to a more FAVORABLE climate region....My dream is North Carolina, but WIFE won't leave NY. And other areas DO have their own drawbacks, so I guess I will just keep battling the "RUST GREMLINS" of the region!

Yes, I've bragged of having 3 DJ's in my stable to care for.....BUT The '11 with 245k miles still has original full exhaust system The '13 with 160k miles has it's original full system The newest year '14 with 188k miles had the flex pipe open up and gosh can it get loud! Ordered a Walker pipe from rockauto today at total cost{tax&shipping} for $153.US. Almost HALF the price local parts stores want, and a LOT LESS than DEALER PART! Not the easiest access to replace , so my friend has agreed to do the labor in his shop when the pipe arrives. STILL liking these cars all the same!!!!

Could be a bad starter motor or even a seized engine....you stated it SUDDENLY happened.Try getting a socket and breaker bar onto the crank pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE and see if it rotates . IF so, then starter or wiring to the starter is next step. EDIT: Also try in Neutral after being sure it is FULLY in the PARK position.

I had quite a while ago 3 different 3.8 engined '04 vans. There is an ignition module that the coils mount to{if I remember correctly}, and probably fried a circuit in it by leaving the wires off from the coils, and you're lucky it still runs at all with just a misfire on the ONE cylinder, normally ignition control goes totally away if that module goes bad. Good Luck, and yes you'll get better help on a Caravan/T&C forum than here.

VERY LITTLE available in "kit form" for performance parts for any of the 2.4/2.7/3.5/3.6 motors. Biggest "drop in" would be a 3.6 with A LOT of wiring. coolant hose, fuel line and pump changes needed along with computer change and reprogramming. BEST advice is to find a NICE 2011 or newer already equipped with the 3.6 motor, they are quit good for performance stock, and you'll save a lot more cash getting to that level and no DOWN TIME trying to redo a 4 banger to get more power.

YES... UGLY times for performance and looks back then. You will laugh at this..... eventually the 3rd row seat flooring rusted out, so my dad welded in a "manipulated" section of a scrap VW squareback {Type III} as a new floor! He had that T&C from '70 to '77

I'm pretty sure that year motorhome got a pass on having catalytic converters not so sure your Dad's 75 wagon got away without having them. My Dad had a '66 T&C wagon with the 4 barrel 440TNT and of course NO converter! That heavy beast would FLY! And he always was "grousing" that it only got 16mpg

overall size and mass comparison..... that rig MAY just outdo that CADDY of yours! LOL

Well your posting made me feel confident to do the same on my son's '11 AWD, as I have not done a rear one yet. BUT I was at my friends shop with it Monday{due to heavy rains} and he had the correct side rear bearing "in stock" and had an hour's time of open hoist. So he replaced it for me in just 40 minutes! To get a better price, I would have had to wait 3 days to order in from rockauto and I did NOT have that timeframe of having the car. total cost ended up at $200. AND a dozen DOUGHNUTS! And I didn't have to get my hands dirty! BUT I did get my hands dirty on Wednesday replacing the Valve Cover gaskets that took me almost 6 hours in my driveway after the rains we got on Monday and Tuesday. The car was back to my son wed. after suppertime and I had the '14 back from him.

glad to help out and that you have corrected your "situation"!

YES , pull out the battery and charge it and then take just battery to a parts store or shop and have it tested. In todays cars with soo much electronics, a prolonged time period of NON USE shortens battery life. You said you inherited this car from your father and less than 50k miles......seems low for 9 years old. Real world on battery life is 4 - 5 years. There is a possibility that your LED headlight fiasco MAY have shorted something in the TIPM/fuse panel creating a draw {not necessarily a fuse}.

Thru ALL this posting, you DID NOT say if this car has the ORIGINAL 9YEAR OLD BATTERY or if at some point it has been replaced! 9 YEARS on a battery is a long time and even if kept charge, the cranking amps {NOT VOLTS} goes way down. AMPS are just as important as VOLYS. BUY A BATTERY IF IT STILL HAS THE ORIGINAL!

Since the 2011 models, lighting has been rather trouble free of problems you describe. I can only think of 3 possibilities {1} bad turn signal/multifunction switch {2} Fuse panel /TIPM under the hood {3} broken or "critter chewed" wires Good luck and keep us informed as to what is found and the fix needed, it will help other Journey owners.

With no background info to go from in your first post, I had to ask. My it seems you've had quite a bit of lighting troubles for such a newer vehicle. Water in a tail light before, are you in an area that gets a LOT of rainfall and possible flood damage? Do you have a trailer hitch and wiring on the vehicle?

Have you or maybe a previous owner converted lights to LED bulbs? VERY problematic in Dodges for flicker symptoms if that was done.

As I had posted, the wires inside that boot are a problem area on all cars, EVEN my "flagship" model for Buick {Lucerne} had broken wires for the drivers door window on it. Not much working room there, but the most likely place to start checking!

YUP they were even more highly "prized" than the Kubelwagen! and far fewer were made of the amphibious type. As a "youngster" cutting my "eye teeth" learning auto mechanics under my fathers tutelage {a factory trained VW technician in '58} , I would assist him with side jobs done at home until he opened his own shop specializing with VW vehicles. I was taught and learned the complete history of the VW line thru him AND my love of world history {particularly WWI thru to present}. I don't think the current "bean counters" that rule Dodge now would EVER consider entering into such a "niche" market. THANKS for sharing with this posting!

Welcome to the forum! But you should have made your own thread of your problem, less confusion that way. I would go back into the rubber boot between the door and body of the car and recheck for broken wires in there. As passive entry,locks and windows all run through there, and a common problem on all cars with power features, as the drivers door gets the vast majority of use thus flexing the wires inside that rubber boot. YES it's not the easiest place to get at!!!

I have DJ's with wheel mounted controls, not stalk mounted. BUT if the Check engine light is on, it is supposed disable the cruise control function. Might this be your cause????t

$17000. for a transmission????OR are there other things needed also? The 62te AWD transmissions are interchangeable, you just may feel different shift points/feel between the 1, which from such a short time of having the car, you would probably never know the difference.

It's been a long time since I've "played" around with the rad core support, but isn't there one that goes vertically possibly on the drivers side? I am going from my fading memory here.

Surprised you didn't figure it out. It is one of the bolts for the solid "inner bumper and plastic front frame piece to the left/right side unibody frame "horns.

Just looked up the clock spring on rock auto and only 2 mopar parts listed for differences. one for heated steering wheel and one without. for '14 -2020.

The tire arrived Monday at 11:30 am. all4 got installed today...wife will be HAPPY again to have HER ride back!