tsteves5

No front differential. Only the PTU.

It could be that the transmission's torque converter lockup solenoid is stuck.

According to the online service manual for my 2011, the connector for the hood switch is a 2-pin oval connector located on the lighting wiring harness by the passenger-side headlamp. I don't know if it's the same on a 2013. It looks like it connects to the Body Control Module, so you might be able to run wires from that module if your current harness does not have them. I would suggest getting a AllDataDIY subscription so you can check to make sure the wiring is the same on your 2013.

I'm not a fuel trim expert, but generally a positive number indicates that more air is getting into the combustion chamber than expected. So if this is a large number it could indicate an air leak in the intake system. A negative number indicates that more fuel is getting into the combustion chamber than expected. A leaking injector could cause this. Understanding Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trims (mechanic.com.au)

You probably don't want to know. Ended up replacing that entire engine. It was cheaper to get a used engine than replace the bad piston ring(s) that were causing it to lose compression. I never did figure out WHY it happened, as I'm very religious about my vehicle maintenance and oil changes. The new/used engine was actually much more powerful and had better fuel economy. I wonder if the original engine was perhaps marginally faulty to begin with.

If the issue doesn't change after swapping the coil pack and replacing the manifold seals, then I agree with John/Horace that it's time for a compression and leak down test. I've personally had this issue where #3 cylinder would not hold pressure and gave a P030X code with very similar issues to what you are describing.

Wouldn't a stand-alone inverter be easier? They're not that expensive. https://www.amazon.com/AC120V-inverter-sockets-output-appliances/dp/B082RTV7YS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1UHI2540JVZ0U&keywords=12v%2B250w%2Bpure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Binverter&qid=1674928201&sprefix=12v%2B250w%2Bpure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Binverter%2Caps%2C303&sr=8-4&th=1

I assume that you are talking about the 6-speed 62TE transmission. The range sensor is located inside the transmission near the valve body. Per the service manual you have to pull the valve body to access it. You can find plenty of Youtube videos that show how to pull the valve body from a 62TE.

Here are the 2011 external lighting wiring diagrams. Good luck. Lighting Diagram 1.pdf Lighting Diagram 2.pdf Lighting Diagram 3.pdf Lighting Diagram 4.pdf Lighting Diagram 5.pdf Lighting Diagram 6.pdf Lighting Diagram 7.pdf

I've had issues with stripped bolt holes in aluminum transmissions (specifically the transmission pan bolts) in the past and the only solution that has worked reliably for me is to re-tap the holes for a larger bolt. At that point, using the same torque spec as the smaller bolt seems to work fine.

It might be a transmission issue where it's not properly downshifting until it gets warmed up. The next time it is sluggish, stop the vehicle, put the shifter down into "manual" mode and see what gear it's in when it's not moving.

Mine had this issue even with the rear (headliner) controls turned off and locked. I replaced the rear controls with a junkyard unit and it fixed the issue.

It sounds like you've been pretty thorough. I can't speak to the 3.5, but on the 3.6 I had a consistent misfire on a cylinder that was caused by the main wiring harness connector on the engine harness. I've also had an issue where the computer was faulty and causing an injector not to fire. Can you verify if the plug and injector are working properly, perhaps with an in-line spark plug tester and noid lights?

I'm glad that it helped.

If you're REALLY industrious, you could remove the compressor, drain it and see how much oil comes out. Then you will know how much to add. https://www.buyautoparts.com/blog/ac-system-oil-levels/ Personally, I would just go buy some straight R-134a without the additives.

If the bad/tapping rocker arms are left alone long enough they can damage the cam shaft, which will result in an even higher repair bill. Since you recently purchased this vehicle, it's possible that the cam shaft is already damaged. The $1800 estimate to repair that is most likely based upon the service manual which indicates that the cam shafts must be removed in order to replace the rocker arms. This isn't the case, and it is possible to to replace the rocker arms without pulling the cam shafts. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show how to do this. I've done it myself a couple of times and the job only takes me about 2 hours plus the cost of new rocker arms and valve cover gaskets, usually just a few hundred dollars. I would suggest finding a mechanic who is capable of the non-cam removal repair and have them remove the valve cover to see if the cam shaft is damaged. Unfortunately, if it is damaged then you are looking at a costly repair bill. I wouldn't worry about the brakes yet. 50% still has plenty of life remaining.

@5rebel9 Aside from regular maintenance, what all have you had to repair on your 2011 3.6 to get it past 200k? I'm at 155k right now and it's taken a fair amount of new parts to get it there.

Agreed, it does sound like the trans is slipping. You MIGHT get lucky and a fluid and filter change could remedy the issue if the trans isn't too badly damaged.

I've owned a few of these 3.6 engines in different vehicles and it's not uncommon for the temperature needle to go a little above half during the summer with the A/C running. Look at the actual temperature that is being reported in the display menu. I don't think I've ever seen mine go above 230 degrees, even climbing mountains. If yours is going higher than that, perhaps it's time for a new thermostat or possibly a temperature sensor.

You have to admire the umm... "bravery" of some people.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to get the voltage on the small alternator control wire next time it fails. It seems to latch the battery light, so in the event of a quick failure and recovery the battery light will stay on until the vehicle is stopped and re-started again. It might make it tricky to catch. I didn't realize those alternators have decoupler pulleys on them. That might be part of the problem too iif the pulley fails (decoupled) incorrectly but quickly recouples.

2011 Journey, 3.6 V6, ~150,000 miles I’ve been looking through some older threads on this site and have struggled to find a solution. My 2011 has started randomly showing the battery light instrument cluster. Sometimes it will happen twice per day, the next time it might take weeks to show up again. It’s happened when the car is idling, and when the car is moving. Sometimes only the battery light shows up, sometimes other warning lights come with it (AWD, ABS, etc…). Stopping and re-starting the vehicle always clears the battery light and any other lights. The vehicle has not died while driving yet. So far, I’ve done the following. Nothing has fixed the issue yet. -Load tested the 1 year old battery, it still tests strong. -Cleaned and inspected the battery cables and terminals. -Tested the voltage of the system with the battery light on, ~14.3 volts. If the alternator is failing, it’s only a very short hiccup/failure. -Cleaned and inspected the engine compartment grounds. -Removed, cleaned and inspected the PCM/ECU connectors. -Cleaned and tightened the alternator cable connections. -Cleaned the battery current sensor connector (on the battery terminal). It is possible that the alternator fails and then quickly recovers? I’ve never seen this before. It seems that the most likely culprit is the PCM/ECU, but other threads with similar issues on this site seem to indicate that a PCM/ECU replacement rarely fixed the issue. I appreciate any thoughts that anyone might have.

My 2011 Journey with the 3.6 V6 started leaking oil from the rear main seal at ~150,000 miles. Oil was visibly dripping from the cross member and would leave a small puddle wherever I parked. I haven't had much success with stop-leak products in other vehicles in the past, but after reading reviews and watching some videos on AT-205 (https://atpautomotive.com/re-seal) I decided to try it. I added AT-205 with an oil change and washed off the bottom of the cross member. The AT-205 doesn't appear to be an oil thickener. It looks like water and it's thin, clear, and has almost no odor. This photo was taken about 300 miles later. It appears to have stopped the leak. No oil dripping from the cross member, no puddles under the vehicle anymore. I don't know how long it will last, but so far I am impressed.

Does it make any unusual noises? Can you verify that you have the All-Wheel Drive version instead of the Front Wheel Drive version?

You will need to run the HVAC actuator calibration procedure once you replace this actuator.