tsteves5

Try part number 68018109AA. See if that looks like your part.

Sorry, my bad. I thought you were asking for door lock actuator, not the air door actuator. Above is for door locks.

I used to get air lock issues like this on occasion with other vehicles in the past. After I switched to a vacuum filler I never had those issues again. Since you used a vacuum filler, I'd be hesitant to think that it's an air lock issue. Can you feel the heater core tubes/hoses when the vehicle is running and you're expecting to get heat but not getting heat? That would tell you if that particular coolant path is working. It's a little too coincidental that this happened after it overheated. Maybe something is floating around in your coolant system, like a chunk of thermostat or gasket, etc.

From AllData

It was cheaper to install a new (used) engine.

P0420 is a detected issue with the Bank 1 (rear/firewall side) catalytic converter efficiency. Unfortunately, a misfiring cylinder can damage a cat. I had a difficult misfire issue on a Town and Country (with the same 3.6 V6) a while back. Replaced plugs, coils, fuel injector, crank position sensor, and checked manifold leaks. None of those fixed it. Ended up doing a leak down test. Found a ton of air bypassing the piston. Ended up being a bad piston ring. I hope that you don't have that issue.

If it's the 3.6, it might be the idler pulley, but I couldn't tell for sure from the clip. I've owned three 3.6 engines and had to replace the idler pulley on every one.

@RebelPanda A few months ago, I used an aftermarket oil cooler and had issues with that exact same port that you identified. In my case, the diameter of the port was too wide and it wouldn't seat properly. I had to grind it down with a Dremel to get it to fit and seal properly. It's been working fine since then.

Sorry for your troubles.

You made me curious, so I ran some tests. I replaced the heater core on my 2011 about 10 months ago. It's 12 degrees F outside, my coolant temp is 195. With my IR thermometer, I'm seeing about 157 on the driver's side using outside air. Switched to recirc (non-AC) mode, waited about 10 minutes and I'm seeing about 168 on the same vent. So in my case, the heater core seems mostly capable of keeping up with the colder outside air.

Sometimes a calibration is needed for the blend door to move, sometimes it doesn't. I've seen it both ways on mine. Also, just because a blend door actuator moves with 12V applied on a bench does not mean that it's good. I had a rear actuator once that would move if I put 12V to it, but did not provide the necessary pulse-position feedback to the HVAC module so it could not be calibrated and did not work properly. From AllData: "The A/C heater module uses a pulse-count positioning system to monitor the operation and relative position of the mode door actuator and doors. The A/C heater module learns the mode-air doors stop positions during the calibration procedure and will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any problems it detects in the mode door actuator circuits. "

Did you run the blend door actuator calibration procedure after changing the actuator?

I've used the ODBLink MX+ to program a key with AlphaODB on my 2011 Journey and it worked perfectly.

They changed the location of the PCV barb. That's why it takes a different hose. The old style PCV barb points back towards the firewall. The newer style barb points up.

Yeah, that's the newer version.

I can only speculate. I replaced this old-style PCV valve because it was leaking. On the other hand, I've had two new-style PCV valves on other 3.6 engines that have never leaked. Maybe the re-design was to address that issue.

The stock PCV valve on the 2011-2012 Journeys with the 3.6L engine appears to be no longer available. These stock PCV valves have three bolt holes that fasten them to the rear valve cover. In order to replace the PCV valve, you need to use one for a 2013+ (only two bolt holes) AND change the hose/tube that runs from the PCV valve to the upper intake manifold. These parts from Rock Auto worked well on my 2011: Gates EMH920 PCV Valve Gates EMH180 PCV Hose/Tube

So I've now replaced the rear HVAC mode actuator on my 2011 twice. The first time was about 7 months ago. I originally used an aftermarket actuator. Now the aftermarket has failed, so I replaced with an OEM Mopar version. I have a couple of comments to pass along if anyone else needs to do this in the future: Use an OEM actuator. It's such a pain to replace that you don't want to do the job twice. You do need to run the actuator calibration routine inside the vehicle's climate control system/computer. You do NOT need a dealership to do this. The calibration routine is available in AlphaODB. I use an OBDLink MX+ interface for connecting to the Journey. I bet that other Bluetooth interfaces will work as well. Consider running the calibration routine before everything is completely put back together so you know that it works before complete reassembly.

You're welcome.

Mine would occasionally stall when stopping due to the torque converter not unlocking. No codes. Try stopping in neutral and see if that helps. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/12459-stalling-or-rough-idle-after-highway-driving-torque-converter-staying-locked/?tab=comments#comment-89815

I had a similar issue on a Town and Country with the same 3.6 engine. In my case it was a consistent cylinder #5 misfire DTC. It would run rough at idle, but smoother at speed. I ruled out the spark plug, coil, injector, computer, and upper cylinder head components. The results of a compression test were acceptable. In the end, it was ultimately a bad piston ring. While it would make acceptable compression on that cylinder, it would not hold compression very long. So using a simple compression tester did not show anything wrong. It ended up being a leakdown test on that cylinder that revealed the problem. I never skipped an oil change or any other maintenance so I'm not sure how the ring became damaged. I hope this isn't the case for you, as that's a MAJOR repair or possibly even an engine replacement.

Is your an AWD version? If so, it might be a locked-up AWD viscous unit and the clunk is coming from the rear end.

A little more than a month later and it's still doing fine. The issue has not came back. Before it the issue would occur a few times per week. The TCC solenoid fixed the issue.

I just had another thought. Since the fuse does not blow right away but after the vehicle has been driven, I would personally be looking for wiring or connector issues. Perhaps some wire has the insulation worn (or burned) through and only shorts out with vibration or movement. Perhaps something inside the computer only fails with movement or vibration. It also might be temperature dependent, only happens if it gets hot for example.

It's honestly speculation on my part. If that fuse fed multiple devices then it could be any of the devices (or wiring/plugs to that device) that have failed as shorted and cause the fuse to blow. Since this fuse feeds only the body computer and indicator lamp, then there's not many other options.