tsteves5

Actually, I stand corrected. Looks like this might be part of the Steering Column Control Module. Check Fuse F119.

I don't see a fuse that lists Cruise Control or similar in my online service manual either. Strange. I do see that there is a Technical Service Bulletin 08-010-14 related to slow or no response on the Cruise Control that requires reprogramming. Might be a vacuum leak too, but I think you would have other symptoms if that were the case. NUMBER: 08-010-14 GROUP: Electrical DATE: January 30, 2014 THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES SERVICE BULLETIN 08-078-13 REV. A, DATED NOVEMBER 21, 2013, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES ADDING LC AND WD VEHICLES. HELP USING THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION FOR FLASHING AN ECU IS AVAILABLE BY SELECTING "HELP" THEN "HELP CONTENTS" AT THE TOP OF THE wiTECH DIAGNOSTIC APPLICATION WINDOW. THE wiTECH SOFTWARE LEVEL MUST BE AT RELEASE 14.01 OR HIGHER TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE. SUBJECT: Cruise Control Slow Or No Response OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves upgrading the software on the Steering Column Control Module (SCCM). MODELS: **2011-2013 (WD) Durango** **2011-2013 (LC) Challenger** 2011-2013 (JC) Journey 2013 (ZD) Viper 2013 (DS) Ram 1500 Pickup 2013 (DJ) Ram 2500 Pickup 2013 (D2) Ram 3500 Pickup 2013 (DD) Ram 3500 Cab Chassis 2013 (DP) Ram 4500/5500 Cab Chassis 2013 (DX) Ram Truck (Mexico) 2013 (PF) Dart NOTE :This bulletin applies to vehicles built on or before May 01, 2013 (MDH 0501XX) equipped with Speed Control (sales codes NHM). SYMPTOM/CONDITION: A customer may experience, no response or slow response to cruise control switch activations. Issues will be experienced by the customers that activate/press the switches in a very fast manner. DIAGNOSIS: Using a Scan Tool (wiTECH) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures available in TechCONNECT, verify no DTC's are set. If DTCs are present record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. If the customer describes the symptom, perform the Repair Procedure. REPAIR PROCEDURE: NOTE :Install a battery charger to ensure battery voltage does not drop below 13.2 volts. Do not allow the charging voltage to climb above 13.5 volts during the flash process. NOTE :If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted. 1. Reprogram the SCCM with the latest software. Using the wiTECH diagnostic application for flashing an SCCM is available by selecting "help" then "help contents" at the top of the wiTECH diagnostic application window. 2. Clear any DTC's that may have been set in all modules due to reprogramming. The wiTECH application will automatically present all DTCs after the flash and allow the tech to clear them. POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty. TIME ALLOWANCE: FAILURE CODE: Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.

The fuse chart below is for a 2011, so it might not match your 2013, but are you referring to Fuse F145? If so, it looks like that fuse does not feed anything else. It seems like you have either a damaged body computer, or perhaps a damaged wiring harness (a wire shorted to ground, two wires melted together, etc..). I've actually damaged previous vehicles providing jump starts in the past and I won't do it anymore. Modern electronics are really sensitive. I keep battery jump start boxes in all my vehicles now. I rarely need them for my own vehicles, but they've been used a bunch for helping out others.

I just did a quick look on a couple of auto parts sites and all look like that. I wonder if your new switch is defective, or perhaps you have a wiring issue.

Did your switch look like this? If so, I just did one on my Town and Country a couple of weeks ago to fix a brake switch error code. I didn't have to go through a reset procedure. It just worked.

My problem started at 142k miles. Correct, this can be done with the transmission in the vehicle. You'll need transmission gasket sealant, or a new side pan gasket. I would also suggest draining the transmission before doing this too. I put transmission pans with drain plugs on all my vehicles. They are cheap and really help to minimize future transmission drain messes.

There's a decent YouTube video here that shows this job and how to deal with the electrical and transmission connectors

I wanted to share a problem and solution that I recently had on my 2011 with the 6-speed 62TE transmission in case anyone experiences a similar issue. Driving around town I had no problems and the Journey drove fine, but after driving at least 10-15 minutes at highway speed then stopping the car would often surge while stopping and either idle rough while stopped or stall altogether. Restart the engine in park, select drive, and the car would often stall again. Restart in park, rev the engine a few times, then select drive and the engine would remain running. No error codes. The issue was that after 10-15 minutes of highway driving the torque converter would remain partially or fully locked. I changed the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid and so far the problem as not occurred again. In my case, I was not able to obtain the Mopar part in a reasonable amount of time, so I used the Dorman 926-378. Upon comparing the Dorman to the Mopar OEM part, they appear exactly the same. They must both be manufactured by the same supplier.

I've personally had inconsistent experiences with aftermarket suspension parts on other vehicles. Sometimes they work out great, other times they seem to fail early. I've had the most trouble with aftermarket rubber parts like seals and steering rack bellows not lasting long compared to OEM parts. If there is a large price difference between OEM and aftermarket, I still usually try the aftermarket first.

I finally solved this noise issue. Long story short, it ended up having a total of two broken motor mounts instead of just the one that I originally found. The passenger-side mount was broken right under the bracket and you couldn't really see that it was broken unless someone held down the brake with the car in drive and revved up the engine. The engine was rocking back too far in the engine compartment and something must have been rubbing on/near the firewall area causing the noise issue during moderate/hard acceleration. Just revving the engine in drive in my garage would cause the top of the throttle body to come very close to the top of the cowl. Thank you to everyone who responded with suggestions. I can see there is a wealth of knowledge in this forum.

I've got a cheap $34 OBD-II CAN reader that works well for quickly reading and clearing simple codes. Mine is an older version of this one. It won't handle ABS, SRS, or Body Codes. https://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-code-reader-64981.html?_br_psugg_q=obd2+scanners For more advanced codes and reading/logging real-time data, I use a Bluetooth reader (similar to this one) and the Torque pro application on my Android phone. It works well if you're phone savvy. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2NMZZULQKC6BB&dchild=1&keywords=odb2+bluetooth&qid=1619141658&sprefix=odb2+blue%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-6#customerReviews https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US&gl=US I've also been tempted to try Appcar DiagFCA with my Bluetooth reader but haven't forked over the $49 yet. https://appcar-diagfca.com/en/

I finally had a chance over the weekend to drop the transmission pan. It doesn't have a magnet, but the bottom of the pan was very clean. I also took apart the oil filter and didn't see any visible metal particles in the filter material. There was no change in the moderate/hard acceleration noise after changing the filter and fluid. I also inspected the intermediate shaft bearing and did not detect any play. The rear rubber driveshaft coupler is in good shape too. I didn't see any issues with CV boots anywhere. I did find a broken front motor mount and replaced it. I was really hoping that was the cause, but it did not fix the issue either. Since the issue only occurs while the car is moving and under torque I can't replicate it in my garage. I might have to invest in something like this, so I can listen to different parts of the car while driving. Has anyone used something like this before for diagnosing issues while driving? https://www.steelmantools.com/cassisear-combo-kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Channel-Car-Electronic-Stethoscope-Kit-Engine-Noise-Diagnostic-Finder-Tool/174392990876

When you say there are three shafts, are you referring to the left C/V, right C/V, and intermediate shafts for the front of the vehicle?

The transmission fluid was pretty dark. I've changed it once already by sucking it out through the fill hole and refilling (got about 4.5 of the 9 quarts). I plan to drop the pan and replace the filter and fluid again within the next week. I haven't seen the transmission magnet yet. I have reved the engine in park. The sound only occurs when the vehicle is moving.

Thanks for the suggestion. In my original post, I neglected to mention that I've already changed the PTU and rear transfer case oil. The noise did not change. I also didn't see any metal shavings on either of the magnets, just some metal sludge that's consistent with what I've seen accumulated on healthy transmission magnets in the past.

Thanks for the quick reply. It sure would be great if it were a wheel bearing. Looking at the service manual, they don't look terribly difficult to replace either.

I recently acquired a 2011 Journey 3.6 AWD 6-speed with 140,000 miles. I've been sorting out some different issues on the vehicle, but one particular sound has me stumped. It's a loud growl / gear type noise that only occurs during moderate and hard accelerations from stop and then the sound fades out at about 30 MPH. The sound does not occur during light acceleration. It doesn't seem to matter if you're going straight or turning. I've been looking around the forum and internet and seen acceleration noises tied to wheel bearings, CV joints, power steering pumps, PTUs, and even tires but none of them seem to be a good match to what I'm hearing. The tires are all the same size, but the rears are more worn that the front tires. I've never owned an AWD vehicle before. Is this noise typical for AWD vehicles, or should I be concerned? I recorded a video of the sound during moderate and light accelerations. I welcome any thoughts and suggestions. Thank you for your time!

I recently acquired a 2011 Journey 3.6 AWD. It was a great price but needed many things fixed. I'm avid do-it-yourself person and I've been able to fix a bunch of the issues so far, but a couple of the issues have me scratching my head so I thought I would come to the forum. I also have a 2014 Town and Country in my garage, so I have some familiarity with the Pentastar and 62TE. I look forward to interacting with everyone.