tdottrucker

153,000 kilometres with no recent work other then RF Hub replacement for RKE issues that are unresolved still.

I have a 2016 RT with the 3.6. If I step on the gas off of a light, i will hear a faint metallic rattle that is very fast in sound occur as the vehicle gets to around 2100 and stops by 2500 rpm as the vehicle shifts. if I lightly step on the gas and slowly accelerate to a gear change, no noise will happen, but only on more average to aggressive accelerations. In Neutral or park, I will hear this sound if I aggressively step on the gas and the RPM passes through 2500-2700rpm, but will not happen if I slowly press the gas and accelerate beyond 3000rpm. I’m trying to find out what is making this sound. I know I have a loose heat shield that makes a dinging sound while moving forward (verified it, just need to retighten it). But this sounds a little different. ** I can try to get a video of the sound if this would help identify the problem.

It would be nice if people post what the problem originally was instead of disappearing. Having the same issue. dealer says it’s not the fob, not the battery. Both are working strong. ALL antennas no longer work at the full range they’re supposed to so i have to hold the fob beside the drivers side of the console to start it, or hold the fob on the top center of the rear door to unlock with the handle. Changed the Radio Frequency Module and this did not do it, swapped three of the antennas and this did not do it. He even tried swapping the starter module by the steering wheel and nothing. Problem is, this issue does not throw any codes or errors on the computer. something has to be causing interference or an issue with range to the antennas

UPDATE 2: So I got a little curious and began working on my sunroof. First thing I did was a subscription to ALLDATA which provided me much needed information on how the sunroof operates, removal of the glass, the drain channel, reinstallation of the drain and the glass, plus the most sought after information, how to reset the glass into place after removing it and to what height it should be at closed. For anyone with Sunroof glasses that seem to be sitting to high or low, or have a gap: There are two bolts on either side of the sunroof glass (you can see the back ones in my photos above) On reinstalling my glass, I had to ensure that the gap between the rubber gasket and the roof body was no more then a business card all around (the business card should also have issues going all the way through). Then I had to ensure that the front of the sunroof glass sat 1mm to 2 mm (less is preferred) lower then the roof body and that the rear of the sunroof glass sat 1mm to 2mm (less is preferred) Above the roof body. These are very fine adjustments using the bolts on each corner. ALLDATA recommends working on one corner at a time. and ensuring a centered glass that closed at the right heights. Calibration: (at least for the 16 Journey RT) Cycle the sunroof to full close position and release close button on the power sunroof switch. Once the sunroof is in the fully closed position, press and continuously hold the close button again. After a ten second delay the sunroof will begin to move past the normal vent position to the hard stop position. It will then reverse to the normal full vent position (also called the soft stop). Once the sunroof has reversed to the vent soft stop, immediately (within 5 seconds of stopping travel) release the close button and continuously press it again. After a three second delay the sunroof glass will continue to move to the fully closed position. Once fully closed the close button can be released. I will monitor for any leaks now and adjust accordingly.

Update: I was able to figure out that this is the drain channel, I need to order a new one. But I found a more bigger problem that is causing a slight leak. My sunroof appears to no longer be calibrated and refuses to open. It opens in Vent mode no issue, and closes no issue. But trying to open, only the passenger side corner drops, I'll hear a quick series of taps that mimic a machine gun sound, then the sunroof stops and waits for you to close it. I can tell the driver side rear corner does not drop like the passenger side does and I believe it has something to do with the black clips that run along the guide. I am posting two photos of the sunroof in Vent mode. You will notice the clip on the driver side is all the way to the front of the guide where it looks like it shouldn't be as it pulled the sunroof a bit forward on the driver side, (little plastic circle) where as the one on the passenger side is not all the way at the front (in the proper position). What would be my best way to correct this issue?

Hello, i have a part of my sunroof that has come loose. This is the part that usually pushes the shade back as you open the roof and prevents you from closing the shade if the roof is open. It is referred as part 4 in the photo, the end piece has a small bump with a hole on the underside but I cannot figure out where it clips back on to the system. It just rattles around when I hit any bumps and because it has come off of where it is supposed to go, it is preventing me from opening my sunroof, i can only open the upward vent option. can someone advise how to reattach this part? I can provide photos or videos if needed. My Journey is a 2016 RT

Well, I was going to mention to remove this post, but I thought let's leave it for others who may experience this exact type of noise. Found the issue: For anyone with a Journey that has the heatshield over the drive shaft near the backseat floor compartments. Give your heatshields a check from time to time. They are fastened into the bottom of these backseat floor compartments underneath your vehicle. Mine decided to come unfastened on both sides so it was resting on the drive shaft and was bouncing around while driving. See attached photo. Thankfully this was not a $300+ repair bill for CV or bearing issues.

I need some advice on what I may have needing to be replaced. I have a noise coming from the rear passenger wheel area. I will try and describe what I hear in detail. When releasing the brakes, it sounds like a very rapid, consistent sounding noise similar to if you left a bolt siting on a metal floorboard. Not quite a grind, not quite a howl, but like a vibration type noise and very noticeable. (note, there is no actual vibration felt). Once you accelerate up towards 35-40km/h, most of this sound goes away or becomes intermittent. As you reach 65-70km/h, the best way to explain the noise is that it sounds like popcorn popping in a pot. Singular or dual noises that are random in sound and audibility. This sound gets more noticeable, but remain like popcorn the faster you go. If I make a right turn at a lower speed where the noise is more consistent and hearable, the sound almost if not does go away for the duration of the turn. Same with a left, but not as much as a right. In reverse, I don't hear it if on the gas, but will notice it a lot less hearable once I take my foot off the gas and let it coast. I was on the ground listening while I had someone else move the vehicle forward and back and noticed it sounds like it is in the rear passenger wheel area, but sounds like it is further back from the wheel along the axle, not out close to the outside of the wheel (if that made sense). Visually, everything looks to be in order, I did notice this a little bit while on the highway, but then the sound began to get more noticeable later the same day. I am thinking possibly a rear bearing??? but I wanted to hear from others who may know or have experienced this. Videos: (on Drive as iPhone made them way to big to upload here) https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--emAf4V3lMMRtcXz7M4bZeFPQnNm0bU?usp=share_link

I need some advice on what I may have needing to be replaced. I have a noise coming from the rear passenger wheel area. I will try and describe what I hear in detail. When releasing the brakes, it sounds like a very rapid, consistent sounding noise similar to if you left a bolt siting on a metal floorboard. Not quite a grind, not quite a howl, but like a vibration type noise and very noticeable. (note, there is no actual vibration felt). Once you accelerate up towards 35-40km/h, most of this sound goes away or becomes intermittent. As you reach 65-70km/h, the best way to explain the noise is that it sounds like popcorn popping in a pot. Singular or dual noises that are random in sound and audibility. This sound gets more noticeable, but remain like popcorn the faster you go. If I make a right turn at a lower speed where the noise is more consistent and hearable, the sound almost if not does go away for the duration of the turn. Same with a left, but not as much as a right. In reverse, I don't hear it if on the gas, but will notice it a lot less hearable once I take my foot off the gas and let it coast. I was on the ground listening while I had someone else move the vehicle forward and back and noticed it sounds like it is in the rear passenger wheel area, but sounds like it is further back from the wheel along the axle, not out close to the outside of the wheel (if that made sense). Visually, everything looks to be in order, I did notice this a little bit while on the highway, but then the sound began to get more noticeable later the same day. I am thinking possibly a rear bearing??? but I wanted to hear from others who may know or have experienced this.

Testing the leads showed me 3.4 on one, 3.3 on the other. I’ll also try to see if the eraser trick helps. Might have to insulate these things in a holder or something. Or find an aftermarket fob that i can program

I have a 2016 RT with remote start and push button ignition. I've noticed that in winter cold, around -10C that the fob will not work at all. The journey still detects I’m close enough to unlock the door, but using the buttons on the fob will do nothing. this is an issue with BOTH fobs i have. I have also installed brand new batteries, checked that i have nothing interfering with the fobs and it happens anywhere is i leave my fob hang off my belt in cold weather. would an aftermarket fob fix this issue?

lol. I'm hoping not to create any problems. I'm looking at this right now. 1200 Amp would at least give me capacity, and possibly enough run time overnight without needing to be plugged into the car as well. Worst case, I could plug this into the car then plug the Cooler into this device. MotoMaster 1200A Lithium Jump Starter & Power Bank Canadian Tire

I wanted to ask if anyone here has left a small size (10-12 cans) 12V cooler plugged in overnight and not drain the battery? We are going to be camping and will need to have one plugged in overnights. If reference is needed, it is the following cooler: https://www.raneystruckparts.com/roadpro-koolatron-12-volt-18-quart-thermo-electric-cooler-and-warmer/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg7KJBhDyARIsAHrAXaGy_wXJoHLc0xAGQALfl09ERj5_GsOcI-E2wqUY2--12bk9dsa1o0gaAhUwEALw_wcB Please move if posted in the wrong section

lmao. It's only a popup tent trailer, max GVW of 1750lb, but I like the blindspot mirrors in those and the functionality lol

Hey @bramfrank I just wanted to ask you based on the amount of work you have done on researching the Uconnect system, what is the reason the 4c will not work with the Journey? Would it be a wiring incompatibility issue?