Elmwoodie

No dealer visit. Can't recall any electrical glitches either. Car got in an accident over a year ago.

seating 7 might be an exaggeration. Unless everyone is small and slow growing. The third row is tight. We used it for friends only on occasion. I am sure the rotors have already been replaced. Maybe the tranny too. Still driving mine that I bought new. 2010 Dodge Journey r/t. Elmwoodie.

last nite I disconnected negative from the car for about 30 minutes. Reconnected and all was well with the replacement TIPM! Backup camera, remote start, and speedometer are working again. Front washer pump and door locks working again for the first time in 18 months. ( http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/9376-power-door-locks-stopped-working%C2%A0-but-power-unlock-still-works%C2%A0/?tab=comments#comment-75707 ) Very happy with the refurbished TIPM from Mak at https://www.totalintegratedpowermodule.com/

Be sure and keep us up to date! My 2010 RT is blowing cold air on passenger floor vent too. Dealer did an actuator calibration test - passed. Dealer did a back flush of heater core and the passenger side began temporarily blowing warm air. Diagnosis was a plugged heater core. ( guess that means that passenger side has a different heater core as driver side and vents blow warm air?) Dealer recommendation is a heater core with EVAC and recharge $1638.45 installed (Canadian).

Just a note to say that I installed a rebuilt TIPM. It solved two electrical problems (door lock and front washer pump)!. The refurbished TIPM does not appear to support my backup camera though and am checking with the guys who sold it to me to see what that's about. And I have some lit dash lights and no speedometer. Hoping to get that fixed by completing a reset as per the youtube videos linked in the previous message. But I am not 100% sure how to fully disconnect the battery. In the video, its a simpler setup in a jeep. On my 2010 RT, the battery is not directly accessible and has 3 connections I can see. One negative to the negative post. Two positives, one to the TIPM and one to the accessible positive connection. I disconnect the battery negative connection up to the post. Then I disconnect the postitive connection up to the post. Then I connect the cars negative and positive connections together to drain the car. Have also tried disconnecting the positive to the TIPM, but not getting a seuccessful reset. Have only tried two hours disconnected though. I will try disconnecting a longer stretch, but am wondering if I need to disconnect the positive connection to the TIPM or not?

TIPM solution for fuel pump here: https://www.totalintegratedpowermodule.com/info.html

Turned out to be the control module AKA the TIPM. I installed a refurbished TIPM and the problem is solved.

After installing a rebuit TIPM, washer pump and door locks are working.

Going to put some dealer service notes here in the hopes that it may help someone some day. RE: front washer pump tested for power at W10 front washer pump motor control. No power at circuit. tested for power at circuit W20 rear washer pump motor control, tested OK. Verified with scan tool TIPM receiving front washer motor signal. Disconnected connector C3 at TIPM and jumped circuits W10 and W20 from power to ground with washer pump connected. Front washer operating. TIPM faulty internally. RE: door locks scanned vehicle for DTCS, none related to concern, tested key fob signal, tested OK, verified with scan tool vehicle seeing lock request. Recommend replacing TIPM for further diagnosis.

Hi All, Has anyone replaced their TIPM with a used/refurbished unit? (TIPM=Totally Integrated Power Management) If so, what year is your Journey, where did you get the TIPM, what issues did you have, did you require dealer assistance, did you need to reprogram, would you recommend? Any info appreciated! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVBlRqlVCh8 https://www.totalintegratedpowermodule.com/ http://www.verticalvisions.com/TIPM_solutions.php https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-83320-599-926.aspx?year=2010&make=Dodge&model=Journey&parttype=Integrated%2520Control%2520Module&origin=YMM

Hi Marsh. Are you having any other potentially related problems? (see this thread here for some other issues I am having (or did you get door lock /washer fluid pump issue resolved?))

Is there a common electrical/electronic component to these two failures? Door lock - doesn't work. Door unlock DOES work. Remote or button. Front windshield washer fluid pump does not work. Rear windshield washer fluid pump DOES work (I know its the same pump!). I am ready to try replacing something in the hopes it will fix my electrical issues without a confirmed diagnosis already, in the hopes all my issues disappear. And in the might be related category: rear wheel drive engagement for AWD is not smooth when turning. Mechanic actually disconnected it for me. Occassionally (especially after rain maybe), absolutely no electrical at all. Waiting a couple minutes and all is well. Occasionally no start. Just a click. Wait 20 minutes and it might start. Eventually it will. New starter and new battery has not solved. Shawn. 2010 Dodge Journey R/T AWD

12 hours without battery did not fix the problem. I saw a youtube video where they indicated that it might be necessary to disconnect both battery posts and connect + and - (without battery!) to discharge all capacitors to ensure everything is reset. Does anyone think that is a good idea?

Thanks for the advice Bigtsr, I tried disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, still didn't work. Thanks for the info that there is only one windshield washer motor. Maybe I can get by just swapping the fluid cables around as the front is more useful than the back! Looks easy enough too. I tried shuffling around some relays to see if there was a chance that the problem would move around. That didn't happen, the problem remained the same. (I have no idea what else to try, so I was grasping at straws ) I am leaving battery disconnected overnight to ensure everything is reset. Sure seems odd that two systems would both half-fail at the same time. Doors unlock, but wont lock. Fluid pumps to the back, but not the front. Sounds like an expensive computer maybe? Elmwoodie.

Hi all, Interesting problem on my 2010 Dodge Journey R/T. Power door locks stopped working. The button on keyfob makes the lights blink, but the doors don’t lock. The lock button on the driver and passenger doors do not do anything. But power unlock still works. Button on keyfob, driver door and passenger door all unlock the doors. The windshield cleaner fluid pump on front windshield stopped working at the same time. The rear window cleaner fluid still works. How does the door lock mechanism work? Is it a separate motor/actuator from the unlock mechanism? I am guessing it’s a control module problem. And the windshield wiper fluid pump is just a coincidence? It looks like lock and unlock shares a fuse and its OK (fuse 38).

Currently happening on my 2010 RT. Initial diagnosis guess is: electric clutch coupler ($1500CDN part in the rear end) OR the electronic controller for it ($700CDN part under the dash). Mechanic's plan is to splice in between them and monitor the signals to eliminate the controller as a potential cause. is this post ( http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/839-leaking-awd-transaxle-pto/ ) about an updated GerTrac PTO part related maybe?

I have heard from someone who should know that Chrysler will be implement a "customer satisfaction" fix for this "shortly". Free hose and install! I think that means that you have to ask for it. I have notified my dealer service already to hold me a part if he hears of this. Just suffered my 3rd hose failure on my 2010 R/T. I got a cheap hose repair rather than the "recommended cold weather" $350 CDN part. The night before it failed the low was -20 Celsius. The week before it was much colder though, so damage likely accumulated. Thanks to whoever recommended filing a Transport Canada safety issue. THAT was a good idea and worth my time. If anyone gets "customer satisfied" on this issue, be sure and let us all know! Elmwoodie.

Got my recall notice weeks ago for my 2010 Journey (Safety Recall R03 replaces safety recall L25). Unfortunately never got around to booking an appointment for it. Today my car wont start. The key that was working now says DAMAGED KEY and the other one hasn't worked in a long time (although it can remote start and unlock which the working one wont). Called dealer here in Winnipeg Canada. They will get back to me when the parts arrive. They have no idea when parts will come. I guess I will have to get it towed to the dealer and let it sit in their lot till they get the parts. If only I had made the appointment for a new WIN module and new FOBs already. Oh well. Just called another local dealer who shared a little more info. They are being allotted 5 sets of parts weekly for this recall. And all of this week's are allocated. Shawn.

Thanks for the info, I guess I will just have to accept that my 2010 3.5l is gutless. Couldn't afford the fuel if it was any more fun though. No brake problems (this year). Last summer the (front?) rotors warped while driving across the northern shore of Lake Superior (hilly scary roads). Took it to a dealer in Mississauga (Cooksville?) for emergency replacement before heading home to Manitoba. Supposedly I was a week late for free coverage of the rotors (?). Complained to Dodge and got a cheque from them for about half the costs. Only 58K total on the DJ, so I imagine that the rotors should last me another season or two.

2010 Dodge RT AWD with 37 months in service now and have been suffering with rough shifts throughout. The transmission finally gave out (4th gear went astray). Dealer installed rebuilt transmission (from Detroit). Drove it home today. Shifting felt smoother. I did experience one large clunk in the backend that was a new phenomenon. I will presume that something was just "seating" itself (?) and let that one pass. Will definitely monitor though. Dealer also found and repaired: leaking trans cooler lines (replaced) PTU leaking (repair) leaking exhaust manivertor (repair, gasket) Approx $4500 in repairs all covered by warranty. Plus the car rental (2012 Dodge Journey R/T !). Hey, the 2012 seemed to have a little more get up and go than my 2010. Did the engine get better? Maybe it was my manivertor leaking. The 2012 had a near-snarling exhaust note under hard acceleration and seemed to accelerate more quickly/smoothly from start and from mid power. Hopefully that ends my transmission woes. If there are no more future replies here from me, assume its going well. Only 22 months of warranty left, so soon, failure will not be an option. Shawn.

Just happened on my 2010 R/T. 50,000 km and still under warranty. I reached behind the infotainment LCD and felt the wires and gave them a good shove to no avail. Dealership says it is the camera (I do not know that they did any diagnosis other than clean the camera lens while putting on the winter tires today). If I dont post here again, the camera was smoothly replaced and all is well. Other than the rear rotors which now need replacement. arggghhh..