JustDodge

yeah i figured the therm, i ordered 2 of them since i have 2 journeys and ironically the same issue happened around the same time lol. hopefully this is the case, i literally replaced all cooling system components within last two years…

hello, have a 12 Journey Crew 3.6. Lately i have been barely getting heat. i just flushed the heater core w clr about a month ago and have fixed the no heat but a month later here i am. it is topped with coolant but i notice i intermittently have heat. after further self inspection, checks out that is because the car isn’t always reaching operating temp or above 200°. it’s been primarily operating around 180-190. it’ll reach above 200 at idle but if i drive the temp goes down. is this a sign of thermostat being stuck open or water pump failure?

i thought about those too, i didn’t have any but the tool just got here and ofc it would be when it’s barely daylight 🙄.

i would’ve tried them or went somewhere but im literally driving w no pad left lmao. ikr, how’d i let it get that bad. i just did the front so i should’ve done all but again wasn’t aware the rear needed a different tool. i ordered one online and it should be here soon. i have the pads too so hopefully all goes well!

yeah, tell me about it! i have 2 journey and did one thinking something was wrong just to do this one and have the same issue, lol. thanks, i’ll see if they have one for me to buy because again i need to do both.

doing brake job on my 2012 Crew 3.6 FWD, rear caliper piston won’t compress. i see 2 indentations on the piston head so im assuming is has to be turned? if so what tool do i need? i had a regular clamp but it only did justice for the front pistons.

yeah, i seen multiple listing for the journey because they’re also classified under the avenger/200/t&c… etc 🙄. thanks

can someone share what the brake pad size is on a 2012 Journey Crew 3.6? i bought two brand of brake pads supposedly for for my journey that i just tried to install and the footprint was either too big or too small to fit in the caliper. surprised the current pads didn’t disintegrate when i took them off.

if you know the correct size, i’d go detroit axle. get the full kit, it comes w rotors, pads and other goods needed. if you want get slotted and drilled for somewhat better braking power.

60k on a 2012!? wow, mines is at 175k lol. if you only have rotors, you could replace them only but to avoid having to go through the process of taking the wheel off twice i’d suggest doing all at once. just a bit simpler. brand wise, i can’t comment. i bought two different brake pads (one brand being detroit axle and other auto shack) and none of them are direct fit to the ones being replaced. like the footprint was considerably smaller/larger but not the exact size? think i’m just going to get a full brake kit w pads and slotted and drilled rotors. 😏

i figured. i bought the correct size but when it was “delivered” it was a box of shoes lmao. so i have to re order. gonna drench it w clr wish me luck.

trying to figure out the heater core hose size for inlet and outlet. going to attempt to do a more proper and thorough core flush.

yeah, i was on ebay looking at the OEM but then that brings me back to needing the lever connecting it to the the blend door. they’re not being sold w levers and i seen the one i have doesn’t fit that gear. i just tied the blend door lever up so it’s open for the moment, it blows luke warm but u guess that’s better than cold.

update… the replacement one i bought, i rigged it to fit the lever i have but the pins was cheaply welded and broke so no lever or actuator 😀

since i got this car in 2022 there has been no heat on the passengers side. it’s barely heat on driver but i’m coming to conclusion heater core is clogged (still trying to figure how to solve that, feel free to give advice). but before coming to that conclusion i changed thermostat, radiator and did multiple flushes w prestone cooling flush. no luck, i proceeded to check blend door and it was faulty. it either completely opens or completely closes. so i bought another buuut… it doesn’t come w the motor arm to actually move the flap… like the plastic lever? (pic for reference) no matter what i search i can’t find that specific part and the one shown doesn’t fit the actuator, any idea what it’s called or where to get? 😕

i have the same issue for the exact wheel placement. I do know at least 2 of my wheels are not in the correct spot but there was like 2 times where the tpms light actually went off and showed a reading for all 4 tires. but after a day or so it went back to no reading. i did see a lack of sensors for like 15 but not sure since they seem cheap

I have a 2012 3.6 Journey experiencing similar issues. It started off not engaging 6th gear on the freeway. Now it doesn’t engage past 3rd gear, therefore I can’t drive past 40mph. Therefore no freeway driving. If I use slight to moderate acceleration the transmission will slip and I would have to get off the gas, the rpm’s will drop and the transmission will catch itself (assuming that’s the surge stated). If I don’t let off the gas the transmission will literally just drive in no gear. In earlier stages, I did experience stalling but haven’t in a while. I would have to restart the vehicle for the transmission to shift but that’ll only last up to 30mph. I’ve had MULLLLLLTIPLE codes appear just off this one issue, from P0734, P083B, P0735, P0729 and P084B. I also hear like a rattling noise coming from the housing of the transmission as the car is gassed and trans temp reaches around 180-190°. Knowing what the torque converter is, I’m confident it just needs to be replaced that’s IF… it hasn’t caused other internal damage to the transmission.

My moms 2017 SXT 3.6 just started showing this code maybe a week ago. This came shortly after a cylinder 4 misfire fuel injector code which was causing the car to shake and have bad fuel economy. Not sure what’s the culprit considering the fact that I bought fuel injectors and mysteriously the issue solved itself?? P0420 still occurs though, intermittently as well. Kinda feel like it’s a domino effect happening

May I ask, I have a similar issue too. Coming to a stop it’s like a surge or jerk. The car may still run or just completely stall. It’s starts back up fine until it stalls again. Doesn’t happen every time but often too many. I also have an issue where the transmission slips into 3rd and 6th gear. I think the stalling was just results of the known slipping issue or at least part of it since I had no issues prior. Therefore my question being would this fix the slippage or would that just need a solenoid pack replacement? If I floor which I shouldn’t be in the times I have, it drives fine. No slippage or anything until cruising speeds.

Have you recently had a tune up? Could possibly be from old/faulty spark plugs causing engine misfire and rough idle. Probably also why they couldn’t find an issue with the trans.

Okay, got ya. I most likely will take it back to them. I was just hesitant because I had financed the work they did originally from working on it and am still paying them. So to have to pour money back to them for an issue I’m already paying them for “fixing” isn’t the best.

I tried taking the pan down but the rtv that was on it was to strong to actually take the pan off. I tried knocking it off and all yet it still didn’t budge so I siphoned the old atf through the inlet port. The old fluid was a bit burgundy compared to the clear clean (new) fluid. Also to ask, if there was an issue with the torque converter itself, it would actually throw a code?

I made a post about two days ago in regards to my transmission slipping while trying to engage 6th gear. I’ve been experiencing this issue for a little over a week. I changed the transmission fluid, problem still consist. At first, I did have codes for P0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio) and P0733 (incorrect gear 3 ratio). After the fluid change, I no longer see the code for P0733 but got another code for P083B (transmission fluid pressure sensor). Now… outside the slipping into 6th gear, the car recently (like a day or two ago) started to stall at idle, not always but the fact it happens is enough. It’ll start back up fine and will function properly (outside the slipping). Is this possibly a cause of a failing torque converter? Locked solenoids? I also had gotten my transmission replaced a year ago in August not sure if that’s good or bad details. Any suggestions and/or thoughts would highly be appreciated.

I actually bought a pump yesterday, like a siphon pump… didn’t work. I literally used a clear tubing and just sucked the oil out. I had a 7QT pan that’s literally almost full. The odd thing is I don’t even think I put more than a qt of atf in there. So I wonder if it was overfilled when I got my transmission replaced?

Yeah I just used the engine oil dipstick to measure it at cold. It should level just barely below the curve on dipstick. My level was where it should be hot, at cold. So definitely too much. Hopefully after I drain it, it’s not slipping because I can’t get a new transmission right now im also at 167k. Last year in august I just got transmission replaced. No issues prior until me “topping it off”. I had just watched multiple videos including this one. So that’s how I was at the conclusion of it being too much atf