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Rina5677

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Rina5677 last won the day on December 30 2023

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About Rina5677

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  • Region
    Canada Prairie Provinces
  • Journey's Year
    2012

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  1. To wrap up my experience with this code - cleaning it did not help -replaced it with a SMP brand from rock auto (along with both gaskets) code gone, hesitation gone, mileage mildly improved. Very worth it. ($180 on rock auto). I would have tried a used one but couldn't find one at either of the local wreckers. I've driven it for 3000km since replacing it. Very glad I did.
  2. Hahah no worries. For whatever reason this one has never had floor mats...just the floor 😅 guess I better get some lol it has gotten a bit better
  3. @5rebel9 how did you get the smell of coolant out after it dripped down? On your sons journey. Mine dripped last night,I checked hose clamps and they did need a small tighten. I still smell coolant but thinking it's just from how much slowly leaked out...
  4. @Locosiete @2late4u it was definitely (so far) just the hose clamps needing a little tightening! What a relief, thank you guys so much!!
  5. @Locosiete @2late4u awesome thanks for the tips! I will be bringing it into my shop later this week when the extreme cold warning is done. Will be sure to post how it goes!
  6. @2late4u hello hello! I have a 2010 dodge journey with the 3.5L. I did have the no heat passenger side, long story short I did replace the thermostat, ruled out actuators and then one day I smelt coolant in the cab so made the call for heater core. Here's where I hope I didn't mess up too bad though - I saw a guy on YouTube cut his new heater core lines and use heater hose and hose clamps to connect old lines from firewall to new at heater core(save labor time and swearing amount). So that is how I did ours. Immediate improvement,blowing heat better than ever! No leaks. My problem comes a month later though, when driving yesterday I smeled coolant in the cab again ? had a peek at the heater core and noticed the aluminum fitting directly at the heater core must not be sealed correctly as there is definitely a small amount of coolant there. I'm pretty sure I should just be able to tap it in with a chisel and hammer lightly until it seals but what are your thoughts? Should I remove heater core and replace o-ring or gasket at the aluminum lines? It's-51 with the windchill here in sk so a coolant leak, even if small,is the last thing we need! TIA for any and all help!
  7. @ztahie no judgment here lol.ours has been intermittent since last october, im in no rush either. Lately its not been setting the MIL and the hesitation/rough accelaration hasnt happened so maybe the cleaning i did finally took effect??
  8. @2late4u ah great idea. I wasn't sure if I could use a used one so glad to hear it's worth a shot. Right now it only acts up when the weather is colder but might as well do it and get rid of the code as well.
  9. @2late4u for sure! I should also add it solved our alarm going off at 3am for no reason. The same time, multiple times lol. Very glad for this forum as i wouldnt have figured it out without all the other people!!
  10. @ztahie did you go with mopar or an aftermarket? I CAnt really afford a $300 mopar egr right now but there are many aftermarket brands for about half the price. Has anyone had luck with anything other than mopar? Maybe doorman or SMP?
  11. I got a used (not refurbished) TIPM for $100. Did a soft reset via YouTube after install. Worked great! I have door lock/unlock, remote start, a rear hatch that opens. Thank goodness!
  12. @AL BUNDY did you do the reset? What is the procedure to do one?
  13. @ztahie did you get a new EGR? Any luck? I have the same code, cleaned mine as well and code came back.
  14. So just a basic take TIPM out, put refurbished in? Turn over. This is my second journey,I'm just trying to get it in better state to sell at this point.
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