Yogitech1

I have a 2010 Dodge Journey SE that suddenly started running only on 2 cylinders. I traced wires with good continuity between the PCM and the coils so I replaced the PCM. The car started right up but, still ran the same. In the old PCM I had codes for the the 2 coils not firing and a throttle actuator code. What would I look at next? Now I also had one of those in intake turbulence enhancer with a plastic blade, well, the blade has disappeared. Where do I look next? Compression is 225 x 4.

60 miles from home I acquired a sudden hard intermittent miss w/throttle actuator light on no DTC light. When I got home I proceeded to check my coils no fire on B and C. Plugs inspected, (okay), compression test, (okay), valve clearances, (okay). I ordered new coils as I found one had broken from the screw being over tightened by the transmission shop. Yesterday I did the wiggle test on the engine control cable at the PCM, the test affected the engine. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the PCM? PLEASE HELP! I use my car for delivering, so I'm not making any money right now.

👍 thank you.

What is the biggest engine that will fit in 2010 Dodge Journey SE with a 2.4L currently. Of course with little to no welding. Are there any kits out there for more power, I'd like to make a sleeper.

No scissor bar in this one, it has power windows run by cable.if I lube the front rail it goes away but, doesn't last.

I have lubricated it but, it just comes back in a couple days. What lube do you suggest?

How can I stop my driver door window from sounding like a witches nails on a chalk board when I roll it up or down? My ears hurt.

Sorry I thought I included that it's a 2.4L engine and before the computer issues it never hit a plug, even if I pushed it to the floor but, now I can't it's like the timing goes wacky at WOT.

I've put about $1,500 in this Journey of mine. TIPM, PCM and ALTERNATOR replaced, PCM twice both preprogrammed, second one did the job almost, the second pack in the transmission had to be changed also. With the replacement PCM I had no 4th gear and no shifting by throttle pressure. That's all fixed now but, I have a new issue that has us perplexed. I can accelerate quite quickly for a 4 cyl. but, if I have to suddenly get out of the way due to misjudged timing, if I stomp to the floor, I will electrically lose a cylinder and lock in with no acceleration and max rpm around 2,500 or so the tach says. In the past this has slammed #2 spark plug shut but, yesterday the plug slamming didn't happen but, still missing engine. After checking the plug and restarting the engine it ran fine. Does anyone have a clue as to what is happening. Going back to the spark plug, the 2 times before when this happened for a few seconds it sounded like peanuts rolling around in the engine, this last time I lost a cylinder, no rolling Peanuts and no closed plug. PS the second PCM had to be reprogrammed at the transmission shop even though it came preprogrammed by the distributor.

No run engagement just starter crank, I'd have to jump everything else to get spark and fuel. I think once I replace to cover on my key fob it may work again or I'll reprogram a new fob.

When I bought the car the key fob only started the car. The dome lights wouldn't lite from left doors and alarm doesn't work. When the car died, I had charged the battery the night before due to random battery drain. I started the car went a couple blocks to the pharmacy and grocery store but I list acceleration and idled home but, it died before I got to the house from a dead battery and the alternator not charging. Had to replace alternator, it tested bad out of car. When started still no charge, I had no voltage from PCM. I had the key fob checked out yesterday and need to replace it with another cover the buttons are shot in the rubber portion of the fob.

No I didn't jumper wires, I pulled the relay and jumped the 87 terminal to 37 terminal. Yes, it's a used TIPM. The starter has a solenoid mounted on it aside from a starter solenoid relay in the TIPM.

No burnt wires evident. Fine working before issue with TIPM.

Mine is a 212G7 and the donor is a 212G8 not sure if that's a big enough difference or not. My phone service is off so I can't contact the dealership. I have kept the old TIPM just in case I need it. I'm still checking things out of course the starter relay is in the TIPM that I jumped. All the fuse and relay config in the replacement TIPM is identical to the original.

I only got engagement when jumping the relay