Yogitech1

The TIPM has been replaced twice and the ECU once. The alarm has never worked correctly as the horn blows randomly whether I'm driving the car or in bed asleep. Occasionally the car forgets the key fob, (only when locking the vehicle), and I just get in start the car and it's fine again for a while.

I found tonight that while the tail light is on (no key) the rear wiper motor turns. ??? Huh!

I'm starting to get a bug now and then in the electrical system. Last week coming home I suddenly got a ding and a battery light, I looked at my voltage monitor and it read 11.9 V a little further it read 14.1 V the varied between 13.6 V and 14.3 V. Today it's been doing fine. Earlier this evening while changing hwys the car suddenly went neutral on me, engine reved, low fuel light came on, and I was reminded that I need an oil change again, which it only dies once I start it first thing. Oil is getting changed Monday. Also left tail light has been burning dim for some time but glares at you from time to time like it's possessed. Engine off key in acc. the tail light will blink randomly, (the rear wiper motor is bad), and I noticed when it blinks the rear wiper will move a bit. Does anyone have any suggestions. Other than that it runs great and nothing's wrong with the radio. P.S. The factor horn is also disconnected as it blows when it feels like it whether I'm driving it or in bed sleeping.

I have a 2010 Dodge Journey SE that suddenly started running only on 2 cylinders. I traced wires with good continuity between the PCM and the coils so I replaced the PCM. The car started right up but, still ran the same. In the old PCM I had codes for the the 2 coils not firing and a throttle actuator code. What would I look at next? Now I also had one of those in intake turbulence enhancer with a plastic blade, well, the blade has disappeared. Where do I look next? Compression is 225 x 4.

60 miles from home I acquired a sudden hard intermittent miss w/throttle actuator light on no DTC light. When I got home I proceeded to check my coils no fire on B and C. Plugs inspected, (okay), compression test, (okay), valve clearances, (okay). I ordered new coils as I found one had broken from the screw being over tightened by the transmission shop. Yesterday I did the wiggle test on the engine control cable at the PCM, the test affected the engine. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the PCM? PLEASE HELP! I use my car for delivering, so I'm not making any money right now.

👍 thank you.

What is the biggest engine that will fit in 2010 Dodge Journey SE with a 2.4L currently. Of course with little to no welding. Are there any kits out there for more power, I'd like to make a sleeper.

No scissor bar in this one, it has power windows run by cable.if I lube the front rail it goes away but, doesn't last.

I have lubricated it but, it just comes back in a couple days. What lube do you suggest?

How can I stop my driver door window from sounding like a witches nails on a chalk board when I roll it up or down? My ears hurt.

Sorry I thought I included that it's a 2.4L engine and before the computer issues it never hit a plug, even if I pushed it to the floor but, now I can't it's like the timing goes wacky at WOT.

I've put about $1,500 in this Journey of mine. TIPM, PCM and ALTERNATOR replaced, PCM twice both preprogrammed, second one did the job almost, the second pack in the transmission had to be changed also. With the replacement PCM I had no 4th gear and no shifting by throttle pressure. That's all fixed now but, I have a new issue that has us perplexed. I can accelerate quite quickly for a 4 cyl. but, if I have to suddenly get out of the way due to misjudged timing, if I stomp to the floor, I will electrically lose a cylinder and lock in with no acceleration and max rpm around 2,500 or so the tach says. In the past this has slammed #2 spark plug shut but, yesterday the plug slamming didn't happen but, still missing engine. After checking the plug and restarting the engine it ran fine. Does anyone have a clue as to what is happening. Going back to the spark plug, the 2 times before when this happened for a few seconds it sounded like peanuts rolling around in the engine, this last time I lost a cylinder, no rolling Peanuts and no closed plug. PS the second PCM had to be reprogrammed at the transmission shop even though it came preprogrammed by the distributor.

No run engagement just starter crank, I'd have to jump everything else to get spark and fuel. I think once I replace to cover on my key fob it may work again or I'll reprogram a new fob.

When I bought the car the key fob only started the car. The dome lights wouldn't lite from left doors and alarm doesn't work. When the car died, I had charged the battery the night before due to random battery drain. I started the car went a couple blocks to the pharmacy and grocery store but I list acceleration and idled home but, it died before I got to the house from a dead battery and the alternator not charging. Had to replace alternator, it tested bad out of car. When started still no charge, I had no voltage from PCM. I had the key fob checked out yesterday and need to replace it with another cover the buttons are shot in the rubber portion of the fob.

No I didn't jumper wires, I pulled the relay and jumped the 87 terminal to 37 terminal. Yes, it's a used TIPM. The starter has a solenoid mounted on it aside from a starter solenoid relay in the TIPM.

No burnt wires evident. Fine working before issue with TIPM.

Mine is a 212G7 and the donor is a 212G8 not sure if that's a big enough difference or not. My phone service is off so I can't contact the dealership. I have kept the old TIPM just in case I need it. I'm still checking things out of course the starter relay is in the TIPM that I jumped. All the fuse and relay config in the replacement TIPM is identical to the original.

I only got engagement when jumping the relay

No, no starter engagement, throttle, battery and other red light right together all lit. Turn the key nothing happens.

Ok, so I replaced my TIPM in my 2010 Journey SE. The TIPM won't hard reset but the door locks won't operate if of the door switches, does this mean the replacement is bad? Also what part receives the signal from the key fob? Is the WIN unit part of the alarm system.

Yes, it's been working. I had the alternator replaced when I had ext warranty but, went bad under warranty, when I hooked it back up I had no charge. The alternator did test bad at the auto parts store as I wanted to rule out the TIPM or PCM. After all no signal from the PCM, hince the external voltage regulator until I can fix it right. Then the stupid anti theft kicked in and is being a pain in the @$$. Hos do I reset the anti theft system?

Not internal to this alternator, I tried that and got 20V out of it. An internal regulated alt. wouldn't have a field wire.

I hear ya. My contacts are disappearing unfortunately. I've since retired and got a bachelor's in electronic communications engineering but, the school (ITT) failed to help me find a job amongst their business miss practices. I've had the TIPM apart and with real strong magnification couldn't find anything wrong with it physically, so put it back in the car. I found a TIPM on eBay cheap. Is the alarm module built into the TIPM?

I rely on my vehicle for income, no ho, no money.