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Finished the job yesterday. It was a pain 😮‍💨 The Bolts in the rear hockey puck end were seized to the inside sleeves of the bushings. It took about 4 feet of leverage on the bolt to break them free, and the right side took an additional 1/2 hour of effort to get it out because it stayed tight the whole length of the bolt. I don't know who's idea it was to use 4 inch threaded bolts for this when all that's needed is 1 inch of threads on the end.. the extra threads just sit inside the sleeve and build up rust and debris. I did have to unbolt the end links to and move the sway bar, and also had to jack up the transmission to get the front horizonal bolt out of the driver's side control arm. In the end it rides much better, handles better, is quieter, and I feel a little bit more torque in the drivetrain.. Pretty sure I was losing some of that power in the rear bushings causing a delayed torque response.

Thanks for the reply! Also, I seen in a video they disconnected the end links to move the sway bar out of the way to get the control arm out. When I did the ball joints iirc there was plenty of clearance to NOT have to do that. In your experience did you have to move the sway bar?

So I've had clunking and shaking while braking for several months now and thought it was warped rotors. I just started looking into control arm bushings and found that those are usually the cause of this. I got down there with a pry bar today and started prying the rear of the control arm and can see the metal moves up and down while the bushing stays perfectly still. I can see how this would produce the symptoms im having, especially because I don't feel it in the steering wheel, but rather through the whole car. Last summer I replaced the ball joints and sway bar end links, but I neglected to do the control arms because I thought they would be okay. So now I HAVE to replace them. My question is, can I replace just the control arms? Or will I have to replace the ball joints again? I really, really don't want to do that job again because the press kit does not fit in the cavity of the knuckle.. So last time I borrowed the kit from the store I ground the crap out of it so it would fit. The store didn't say a word about the modification either, but I don't want to go through that again. Long term though, are the ball joints going to be okay if I separate them from the control arms and just leave them alone?

After going over what you guys have said, talking to a buddy of mine, and looking over the location of the coolant I am almost certain it's the oil cooler. It just makes sense. There's even coolant on the connectors that go to the oil pressure and oil temperature sensors.. also, I had the oil changed back in November and it never leaked before that. I found the aluminum one on Amazon for under $60 with all o rings, an oil filter, and even new gaskets for the intake. Pretty good reviews for being 1/4 of the price. https://a.co/d/5L49603

The prestone I linked to says Compatible with: OAT, POAT, HOAT & G05 So I checked twice with the engine warmed up and running and cannot see a single drip. The fact that the entire transmission is covered makes me think it's spraying big time, but I only added a little less than a half gallon back into the system to get it back to full. Also, despite filling the coolant back up and driving, the rear heat vents are still blowing cool air on Max Heat no matter what I set it to.

See, this is the coolant confusion I keep encountering. You say since 2013 it's OAT ORANGE. Everything I read online says OAT is purple. Mine looks reddish, but I seen a post another forum comparing the purple in different containers and it will appear red and even orange surrending on what it's in 😒 I need to get coolant right after work and top it off because it's well below the COLD line on the reservoir. I need to put something in there now. I think I'm going to go with this purple universal mix. Coolant on a paper towel:

Can I use THIS to top off?? https://www.walmart.com/ip/1223953210?sid=f890ad6a-9dfa-4908-b6be-f17fbdcd3a17

This is the driver's side, but you probably know that already. I watched a YouTube video of another guy with a Pentastar, I think it was a Grand Caravan or Town and Country.. But his leak was on the driver's side from sort of quick disconnect L-shaped fitting. It came as part of the coolant assembly that had a Y connector and other hoses. You could see it literally dripping in his video. I will wait until I get the engine warmed up and see if I can find it dripping anywhere. It's been ending up on the ground everywhere I go lately, that's for sure. Also, the coolant in the reservoir looks reddish in color. Is that the new "purple" coolant, or a discolored older orange? Finding very conflicting info on Google about the proper coolant.

Here's a couple more photos.

I finally was able to take a look. Didn't see anywhere obvious that it's coming from, but the top of the transmission is SOAKED in antifreeze. Does that give an indication of where it's coming from? Also, there is a puddle of oil under the filter housing, however it's been there for months. I know this because my buddy pointed it out when we were replacing a bad fuel injector. As for the spark plugs, I replaced them at 96k and also replaced the trans filter and fluid.

I will start looking for the leak today.. The temps have warmed back up into the 20s so I won't get frostbite 😏 I have an extended coverage plan through WYNN that has a few thousand miles left on it before it expires. Any idea if this would be a covered repair? I haven't even attempted to use the warranty because I've heard so many bad things about them 😒

Hmm. I DO have the rear heat.. But I noticed about a week or two ago that it's not actually working 🤔 no matter what I set it to (manual, auto, High heat, etc) it still puts it cold air

Okay I'm back! So since creating this thread I have had the code come back several times, probably once or twice a week. I just reset it and go for another few days. Well yesterday morning I was smelling coolant and so I checked it when I got home. Sure enough I'm losing some. The reservoir is not empty yet, but it's down near the bottom. I noticed a small puddle as I was leaving this morning. It looked to be centered under the front of the engine. I definitely need to investigate it further but we're currently under a Cold Weather Advisory with wind chills in the -20s, so I am not getting under there for a few days! What are the common areas that slow leaks spring up? Btw, I'm at 117k miles now. I read on another thread about the oil filler cap assembly and how disturbing it too much can cause a coolant leak...? Well I did just have the oil changed in November.

I was thinking it might be a fluke. The coolant is at the bottom of the COLD range, so it is a little low but probably not enough to trip the sensor. Also, the fan DOES switch on and off with MAX A/C on, so that's working properly. I watched it warm up leaving work today and within 3 minutes it was at 110 and after about 15 minutes of driving it was around 210-215. I think I may just clear the code and see if it comes back.

2017 Dodge Journey GT AWD 3.6L 110k Miles A couple days ago I was on my way home from my in law's house and while driving the Engine light came on. I was right about in the middle of my 25 minute drive, engine warmed up and running fine. I pulled the code when I got home. It was pending and so I left it to see if it would go back off but it has not. The temperature gauge is going to the normal range, the heat appears to work fine, and nothing else seems obviously wrong. I've been reading that there are several things that CAN cause this code, not most of the time it's the thermostat. I don't want to take guesses at it and start replacing random parts, so I figured the experts here could give me an idea based on their experiences. It was in the 40s I think at the time it came on, and being October here in Michigan it's getting colder now. I can't stand NOT having remote start 🥶

That is exactly what mine is, and the reason why I didn't know what it was! Every other car I've owned was a pull up lever between the front seats, including my 2014 Cruze. So this was strange to me.

I applied the e brake and put it in gear, have it a little gas and could feel the resistance. So they ARE working. I released it and the resistance was gone. I can't say I've felt that kind of resistance from the rear though, almost as if to say I never feel the rear actually "stopping". Are there adjustments that can be made, or does this test really not test the normal movement of the assembly?

Nevermind, I watched a YouTube video. So how do I "test" them? Apply them and try push the car? Apply them and lightly press the gas pedal?

Stupid question, but how do I engage the E brake? I do not have a lever anywhere that I've found.

Thanks for the reply! I haven't touched the rears, and they were likewise new when I got the car. But I'm thinking the pins are probably in the same shape as the front WERE before, possibly stuck. It does nosedive when braking but I previously attributed that to bad struts in the front, but I also replaced those in the spring this year as well. It kinda does feel like most of the stopping power is going to the front. So if the rats aren't properly working then that's why the fronts keep having issues?

I bought my 2017 Journey AWD in March or April of 2023 and it had brand new pads and rotors when I got it. After about 6 months it started vibrating and shaking while braking. I went and had the rotors turned back in the spring of this year and it stopped like a dream after that. Now, only 10-15k miles later in getting vibration again and shaking from them. I had someone cut me completely off in traffic and I had to stop HARD to avoid an accident. Immediately after they are shaking way worse, especially the left. When I had then turned back in the spring I found that 3 out of the 4 slide pins in the front were completely seized! I removed them, cleaned, sanded and buffed them, then reinstalled with new grease and new boots. Surely this was why they warped in the first place. So now, before this mornings hard braking, I'm left wondering WHY are they shaking again?! And post hard-stop they are definitely much worse. Replacements are stupid expensive in my opinion, about 120 for the cheapest car parts store brand, and the the sketchy Amazon kits are definitely too good to be true (Detroit Axle, A-Premium) at the same price as ONE store brand rotor. Why are my front brakes so bad? I don't even have the early model undersized setup. Should I be replacing my calipers along with the brakes next time? I am so frustrated at this stupid car lately that it makes me hate it. Turn the rotors in spring, replace tie rods, ball joints, end links, and tires in summer, then need to do the damn rotors again?!

I got new tires put on and WOW what a difference that made. I still have some creaking and I am 99% sure it's those lateral bushings on the control arms. I don't think that's a problem really, more of an annoyance. It drives so much better now. Still need to do the rear struts and an engine/transmission mount, don't know which one though 😒

Oh so you know the roads here! I live in Mount Clemens and Macomb county has the worst roads. I have an appointment Thursday to get tires and an alignment. I still need to replace the rear struts, so I'll have to try and get that done soon so I don't ruin my new tires.

😮 You must live in Ohio. I live in Michigan, and this where the car is from originally. How disappointing 😔Our roads suck bad, time to move I guess lol

Got around to doing the right side yesterday. As I thought it would be, everything was much easier on this side. For some reason everything I've replaced on the left side has been seized, super tight, extra difficult, etc. I noticed that while moving the control arm around that flat saucer bushing makes noise. It would be just my luck that after replacing everything else I need to take it back apart to replace those bushings. I may just spray them with a silicone lubricant and call it a day. I STILL need to replace rear struts, tires, engine/trans mounts. Either the previous owner beat the living hell out of this Journey, or they're just not built well. 100k miles and I've replaced all of the front suspension with the exception of bushings and wheel bearings *knocks on wood*. It still rides like a boat getting slammed from underneath, and I'm getting my tires replaced this week which will help a lot, but I don't expect it to be perfect after that either.