Dean H

Have you checked the radiator cooling fan? These are the Dodge radiator cooling fan specifications. Coolant temperature Fan on 220 F Fan off 214 F AC on fan on.

Slow down........ Need more information first. Q1 - Do you have the EVIC screen in between the tachometer and the speedometer? Select to display engine coolant temperature. I need to know the engine coolant temperature. That it runs at during the speeds you are referring to. What temperature is it when you say it's overheating. What exactly happens when you say it's overheating?

Would you elaborate on what happened, when the instrument cluster went dark?

FOB- I am currently reading up on the FOB system. Start simple - Battery check voltage. Battery correctly installed. Check and clean battery connections. Q tip works. See picture below on what to check and clean. You might want to try a new FOB. Go here for a programmer and key fob. I did this and was very easy to do. You need one working FOB. https://tomskey.com/products/chrysler-dodge-jeep-and-ram-simple-key-programmer-for-smart-key-fob-cdsk-e5trz0sk-kit

To reach the ambient air temp you have to remove the inner lower plastic panel. Beneath the radiator. Pull the whole temp sensor assembly out of the front clip. It snaps into place. Then disconnect it from the wire harness. This is the fun part 😄. Do not pull on the wires.

P0073 Ambient air temp sensor circuit voltage high. Check this- Ambient air temp Sensor bad. Sensor wire issues. This is the ambient air temp sensor on my 2016 DJ. Located behind the lower air intake on the front clip.

Welcome to the forum. As a Journey owner you will soon know more about 12 volt automotive electrical systems. Then you ever needed to know. I have put together everything, I have learned into specific forum post's. Read carefully!! Several times. Then ask questions. Battery drain- 1) Glove box light. Switch sticks on. Replace or disconnect. 2) Bluetooth - HFM hands free module for Dodge. Pull the fuse marked HFM. Code P0562. My case it was a weak battery. It is the battery or battery cable and ground connections. Simple rule for Journey electrical components. Never look and guess. Always Test the battery and clean all connections. Period................................ You start here- BATTERY https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ Next- CABLES https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18115-electrical-system-fyi-cables/ Next- GROUND SYSTEM https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/ With your ability to work on cars. Like mine. You can handle doing, what I have done as mentioned in specific posts linked above. Dean

Dodge 2016 service chart Steering POPPING NOISE 1. Loose steering gear mounting fasteners. 2. Loose outer tie rod mounting nut or jam nut. 3. Loose intermediate (steering) shaft coupling at gear input shaft. 4. Worn tie rod (outer or inner). 5 Worn axle half-shaft. Corrective actions - 1. Check fasteners for proper torque and retighten as necessary. 2. Check fastener torque. Replace nuts as necessary and tighten to specifications. 3. Make sure coupling is fully seated on gear input shaft. Retighten or re-seat as necessary. 4. Inspect 5. inspect

Try this-

I was reading on car complaints.com 2016 DJ. https://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Journey/2016/ I found this under electrical issues reported. This is the 3.6 engine ground that is being talked about: I rest my case.

2016 DJ service CD. Excuse the all caps text. That is how it copied over from a picture. Code set conditions - At least five seconds or 2.5 engine revolutions have elapsed with Crankshaft Position Sensor signals present, but no camshaft position sensor signal. Possible causes - 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT CMP 2/2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 2 TONE WHEEL LOOSE OR DAMAGED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

Based on my experience and what I have learned. I feel the minimum service would be fluid and filter change at 60k miles. Personally, I feel doing a transmission flush is an expensive gamble. Everything,I know is posted here. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18151-automatic-transmission-fyi-please-read/

Post all the codes that you have.

For Journey electrical issues start here. The ground system is a weak point. Doing a ground upgrade is cheap and simple to do. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/

Correction regarding this statement - When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. Before, I installed this ground. My HVAC hesitated when switching between defrost and floor outlets. After the ground install, it switched outlets immediately. Dean

Mending bars https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Mending-Plate-4-Pack-15299/202033910 Cables https://www.ebay.com/str/acdcwireandsupply?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MvbsRTEuTMK&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=i3l8BOlITT-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Photos - Ground cable to interior . Connect to the engine ground stud. Run it along side the transmission shifter cable going into the interior. Looking from the passenger side. That is the transmission shifter cable entering the vehicle. Passenger kick panel area ground. Easy access and connection. Go up to this ground next to the cabin air filter. Secure with zip ties to stay clear of HVAC wires.

Photos Strut tower ground studs connected by mending bars. Driver's side Passenger strut tower ground studs. 2" mending bar

3.6 engine Stock grounds, driver's side. Engine block ground stud. Under air intake tube. Between large wire loom and vacuum pump. Passenger side engine mount and strut tower grounds. Run 4 gauge cable from points in boxes.

Electrical issues? Straight up folks here is the deal. The Journey has a weak electrical system. Dodge made it that way. Most Dodge dealerships don't know what to do with it either. I have identified a weak point, that can be corrected very easily. Drum roll please.......... Upgrade your electrical ground system. Yes, that simple. Read to the end. A 12-volt automotive circuit consists of a power wire to the load (lights, motor etc.), and the ground wire. The ground wire is a return path to the negative battery terminal. The negative battery cable connects to the ground stud located on the drivers strut tower. From the ground stud, a cable connects to the engine block. From the engine block, wires, straps or cables ground to the chassis. Inside the vehicle all electrical circuits are connected and grounded to the vehicle chassis. The metal chassis is the ground return path to the negative battery terminal. Weak grounds that are corroded or loose. Will cause all kinds of strange electrical problems. Cleaning all grounds first is important. To prevent misdiagnosing and replacing parts that are good. This is why, we keep telling people check and clean your connections and grounds. On the Journey the ground system needs a few upgrades to be considered reliable. Dodge cut costs on the electrical system battery cables. They used 4-gauge (AWG). Should have been 2-gauge (AWG). Better engine block to chassis grounds is needed. So, my plan is to connect as many grounds as possible by cable to the negative battery terminal. 1) Battery ground stud to engine block ground stud. Adkd a 2 gauge Cable. Leave the stock ground cable alone. 2) Passenger engine mount. 4-gauge cable to passenger strut tower ground stud. 3) Passenger strut tower ground studs. Connect them together with wire or use a 2 " mending plate modified to fit. 4) Drivers strut tower. Connect the 2 smaller ground studs together. Then connect them to the large battery ground stud. Use wire or 2" mending plate modified to fit. The 2-gauge cable from the battery ground stud to the engine block stud. The starter and alternator ground through the engine block. This upgrade is very important to starting and charging of the vehicle. The engine block is an important part of the ground system. Parts needed -2 gauge (AWG) cable black, 10 ft long with 3 /8" hole lug ends. The 4-gauge cable ground from the passenger engine mount to the strut tower ground. Ties that side of the vehicle in to the ground system. Parts needed -4 gauge (AWG) black, 3 ft long with 5 /16" lug ends. Connecting the strut tower grounds together completes the direct connection to the battery negative terminal. Parts needed- Wire or 2" mending plates. Drill out the holes until it fits. An additional ground that takes some work,is to run a 4-gauge cable from the engine block stud into the interior. Connecting to the bare metal of the Instrument panel frame. I ran this ground cable right along with the transmission shifter cable into the vehicle. The instrument panel frame has the grounds for 90% of the electronic modules on the Journey directly connected to it. These modules need the best direct ground possible. The HVAC module is one of them. This one needs the best ground possible. Get these upgrades done first. Then see what is happening and proceed on to troubleshooting and testing components. I have been running this basic ground upgrade for a year now. When, I installed the ground to the instrument panel frame by the cabin air filter. My HVAC switched between defrost and floor outlets immediately. Studying the improvement of the HVAC turning on by itself. Photos are in the next post. Where to buy parts in another post. Dean

I agree with you on learning trim stuff. Good point regarding the shifter slide gate. It just slides out of the console. Pull on the orange dot. I only used armor all on it, to clean it up. For cleaning the console you have to use a interior brush on it. Because of the texture, you can't use a cloth. Basically my goal is to use what is there. Patch it up as needed. Make it look the best that it can. I'm happy with how it turned out. Dean

Center console refinish Page 2. I cleaned the whole piece with alcohol. No other prep. Then sprayed about 3 coats of Rust-Oleum basic bed liner. It is really sticky with a light texture. Gloss black. Side note you can spray another color on top of it. https://a.co/d/7hmFztc Perfect for interior. I used it on my wiper arms and all cowl pieces. Before - Before - Dean

My center console was looking a little rough. How to remove the console top piece. Trim tools needed are- https://a.co/d/bpgHBUq There is 2 electrical connectors to disconnect, before removing the console piece. Comes off pretty easy. Go slow so you don't snap off clips. The cup holder assembly screws into the console. It unsnaps very easily. Handle carefully! Cleans up real nice. The light was blue after cleaning it. Came out nice. The shifter part unsnaps as well. The gear indicator lights is a one piece assembly. The silver trim around the shifter. That was pretty difficult to release. Continue to next post.

2016 DJ service CD.

2016 DJ service CD.