Itswiggs

Oh I hear ya. I never used auto, just when I’ve been trying to diagnose this issue. I purchased the hvac module off eBay for $30, put it in, ran the calibration and everything passed but still had the issue. Maybe the manual control is the issue or uconnect. I will be posting my troubleshooting along the way in hopes it may help others out.

After working and racking my head about this issue I have come to find that the b1107 code is no longer an active dtc but a stored one and takes 100 “cycles to clear”. My blower is still acting up on setting 7, max and when auto is maxed out. Crazy thing is when viewing the live data and blower is set to max it shows at 90-95% and rear blower shows 100%. Auto works as well as manual modes but setting 7 is blowing at level 3. I checked voltage and resistance between supply and ground as well as sensor input for every setting and found that max setting is showing 12 volts as it should but the resistance of the sensor input shows the same as setting 2-3. Got a bit lost when I pulled the head unit and manual controls only to find the manual controls connect to uconnect and then from uconnect has the radio and 1 other connector that is supply, ground and what I’m guessing is the can bus. I’m assuming it goes to the bcm and then to the hvac module. Signal is getting lost in translation somewhere just not sure where. More and more testing……

Thank you so much! I really appreciate it

I will definitely be getting one the next time around. Thank you for the info

I’ve been trying to find a hvac wiring diagram for a 2018 gt 3.6 to help track down a cabin air temp sensor circuit short. B1107-12. Any help would be much appreciated!

Well that’s pretty awesome that shop is that transparent. Hard to find good ones anymore. Yes please keep us updated. Never know when this knowledge could help someone else

The adapter has a check valve in it that holds oil on the top side of the engine, so no dry starts. That’s Baxter’s theory behind it anyway. I figured since I’m going to keep this vehicle I want to do everything I can to make it last as long as I can.

I like this concept. I have heard of the issues with the cores but 5 sheesh that’s wild. I looked at the part and can’t see why you couldn’t make it work on a dj beings it’s the same motor. Might be a pain to install in a spot the filter can easily be changed but can probably extend the hose to wherever need be. Might have to add this

Was doing maintenance on the dj for the wifey and while changing rear spark plugs I looked down and saw the dreaded oil and coolant mix hanging out in the v below the oil cooler/filter housing. Decided to upgrade the whole unit to the doorman aluminum housing with the Baxter filter adapter. So far so good. Just make sure everything on the new housing is torqued good I.e. the plugs and sensors and use some high temp thread sealant (I learnt the hard way 🤦🏻). I do like the Baxter adapter, my thinking is it will just make life easier in the long run and hopefully keep me from having to replace camshafts, rocker arms and lifters for as long as possible. id like to do the crossover pipe and thermostat housing next

Sorry I didn’t see where you wrote struts in the original post. If your alignment is off it’s something with your front end even if it’s only when accelerating. Was anything else changed when dealer did your struts? Has a curb been hit on one side or the other. Also, found this on a Nissan forum hope this helps….. “The condition you have is considered TORQUE STEER. The steering veers or pulls to one side during hard acceleration. Here are conditions that can cause it: * - Loose or collapsed control arm bushings. * - Loose or worn tie rod ends. * - Loose or worn inner tie rod sockets. * - Loose or broken engine/transaxle mounts. Also check the front and rear alignment. If the car dealer changed the alignment to cause the pull to go to the right side, then it's possible the alignment was done incorrectly. IMO, go to another shop and get an alignment check. Your Nissan dealer may be trying to stiff you.” posted by “rogoman” from nissanclub.com

So I had this same exact issue, wet ds floor board and rear ds bottom storage full of water. After digging up an old video on YouTube I learned that it is a seam just below the ds windshield cowel. Hit it with some silicone and problem solved

If your transmission fluid is not regularly changed then yes I definitely agree a flush is not what you want to do 120k miles down the road. But with a trans that is serviced every 30k-50k miles then I would keep up with it to maintain. Just did mine after 60k & fluid looked decent enough. Went with an upgraded pan that has the drain plug in it and a wix gasket so no rtv. Saw that the side trans cover was leaking (the side facing driver side tire) so I sourced a gasket for it as well off of eBay and changed it out at the same time. The side gasket was definitely a pain as I had to lower the transmission by unbolting the top trans mount and lower crossmember just to unbolt 2 bolts on the top side of the cover. There are some videos that show you can use the oil dipstick with doing some measurements and a file or dremel so you can save a couple dollars on that doorman one.

Honestly that’s genius. Never even thought to do something like that. Good way to save money and always keep a new filter in for cheap 🤦🏻

Struts

just wanted to throw this out here for anyone wanting to program there own fob. purchased the obdlinkmx+ , a FCA SGW bypass cable and key fob off amazon. plugged the cable to the SGW located in the lower part of the rear driver side door behind the panel. used jscan to pull pin and program fob. jscan has a how to on their website to follow. the dealer most likely will not give you the pin you need and will either tell you to have it done there or like they told me to go to an outside locksmith. ive heard of people using "chrysler pin puller" but it only works for android. i originally purchased the thinkdiag2 obd2 scanner but was put off immediately due to having to purchase a login for $50 through autoauth and then another sub through FCA for $150 just to bypass the SGW even when i was already bypassed. thinkdiag sub also has to be maintained yearly and idk how much that costs but not worth it to me. i did have to purchase the "vin license" through jscan for $20(you need one for each vehicle you wish to use the app on) but that lasts as long as i have my vehicle, obdlink also has NO yearly sub which is another plus. alfaobd is another good one that cost $50 upfront but its a one time fee and can use on as many vehicles as you wish. so for roughly $200 upfront all in you can program fobs for FCA vehicles. dealer charge almost double that for one.