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TCJames

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  1. TCJames
    Well my oil analysis showed no water or coolant which was good. According to Titanlab my oil test showed normal wear which is a good thing.
  2. TCJames
    I'm glad I found this forum. Apologies if I spam it. There is such a huge pool of Pentastar users and I appreciate all the forums where I can find answers or inspiration. I will hopefully check in from time to time to see what's up. Thanks @John/Horace for inspiring me to send off an oil sample for analysis. I'm pretty sure I have solved all the leaks, even the ones that were just showing at extreme temps. The system seems to be controlling the temp for now but sometime in the near future replacing the heater cores and radiator make sense to make the system more or less like new and help that engine have many more miles of life as the Pentastar is a solid engine outside of a few issues thanks to a great design influenced by Mercedes who make great engines.
  3. TCJames
    @5rebel9 thank you for the information! The plastic parts on the radiator will only tolerate so many heat cycles anyway. its a good repair. I will definitely look at this. What I've done is still good to eliminate leaks but yeah the radiator has been on my radar and now I have the data to say this could be the answer!
  4. TCJames
    Yes I replaced the housing and the plastic crossover with aluminum replacements. I will probably look at upgrading the thermostat back to an OEM spec one when I end up doing the radiator
  5. TCJames
    I agree and the fan or the car moving seems to control the temperature fairly well when the coolant is circulating through the radiator. It will peak at 219-221 as expected under normal stress and then the fan will knock it down. I ran some light finger nozzle tap water through the condenser and fan to get some bugs and grime out but indeed at some point the radiator will need to be replaced. The fan does seem to have at least a low and high speed. I will look at either a Nissens or Mopar radiator at some point in the near future
  6. TCJames
    Thank you. I did put the clamps in around the ypipe. I also noticed that one of my hoses was sloppy when I spliced in the aluminum ypipe into the heater supply, so I replaced that section with a new hose. I do think there was some evidence of leakage there. I'm changing the oil today and going to send off a sample for analysis. I had done an exhaust gas on the coolant and a pressure check. I was definitely though getting air leaks at times into the system even after it was well bled. The coolant system was normally showing obvious failure around 224. That does not seem to suggest radiator as the system would just gradually climb to overheating without a coolant circuit failure. I agree the radiator could be an issue and that is probably my next repair if the system fails to control the temperature again. I back flushed both heater cores at one point and they seem to be working well now. I probably will replace the radiator no matter what sometime in the next year and clean out the condenser fins well. I was trying to share some ideas since several people had similar issues but no one ever reported a resolution.
  7. TCJames
    yes and no bubbles in a fill funnel once bled. So clamps are a very possible solution. I don't think its a long shot when no leak at static or under middle normal operating temps
  8. TCJames
    I'm still trying to find a solution. This is one of the few explanations that would make sense based on the descriptions. I'm actually crossing my fingers that it works. I've also seen some people fix overheating with lower temp thermostats. This would make sense too as that would reduce the amount of drive times at the upper end of the temperature range. Its just an idea. These systems are pretty extreme in their operating temperature. Also maybe a failing oring in the coupler to the heater core but you would smell coolant in the drivers compartment. The leak would need to be present only under high temp and pressure so you look for conditions where that can happen.
  9. TCJames
    So serious question. I'm battling a very similar problem on my Town and Country so I created this account to share my thoughts. I have an order of spring clamps coming from the big online retailer. I never really thought about it until last night but using the old screw style clamps which I used to splice in the ypipe for dual zone climate and to clamp to the plastic quick connect. After my T&C runs near 220 for 5-10 minutes it either sucks air or blows off the quick connect. My theory now is the old style screw clamp expands much more then the quick connect and allows it to leak when at a high operating temperature. Any screw clamp to any plastic nipple is highly suspect. I have installed a 185 thermo in an aluminum housing but I found no evidence that that was the root cause. Since I don't have a blown head basket and the system holds pressure at low temperature. This is really the most logical option. I hope this helps and good luck. The spring clamps will adjust as the system heats and cools .
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