CaveManJedi

I had to buckle up also.

Did you do a hard reset to your pcm and tcm? I would try that, especially since you changed those sensors. I'm sure the fuses have different numbers just pull every fuse that is labeled pcm and tcm even the big square one. I had four fuses that were connected to my pcm and tcm.

Also, I'm about to get rid of the resonator and change my catalytic converter from an C.A.R.B. emissions to federal emissions one. And of course, grab a muffler while I'm at it. I'll update progress.

I have an intake. You gotta build it yourself. No maf sensor adapter fits cause it's not a maf. Lol. I actually cut the collar off the stock air box!! A dremel tool works great. Some sanding and wa la. It has the original fitting for the IAT sensor AND get this....a bell housing for perfect air redirection from the sides. Another reason is that it deletes the free air hose, which you don't really want. You could get residual oil sucking back into your throttle body. Just put a crankcase filter on your crank and it actually adds about 10% to 20% of power. But the thing is, that with such a newer car, you'll have to hard reset the pcm and tcm back to factory settings and go through a couple of true drive cycles to make your car recognize the change. Make sure when your doing your drive cycle that you don't have your lights on, a/c running or radio on. I did it to my '19 2.4l journey blacktop and it runs amazing. It took me about a month after I bought it to realize it was sluggish and gas mileage blew. I'm talking 285 miles per tank. I've had it for 3 months now. So I changed my exhaust vvt solenoid, my crankshaft position sensor, and ambient air temp sensor. Now it get 365-420 mpg, my throttle response is greatly improved, and I don't unessesarily stay in gears so long when I'm not on it. I've got a carbon fiber heat shield on its way as we speak. I'm working on building my air cleaner tube cause you may have to. Idk if yours has intake systems for it cause they have no intake systems for my car. Don't know about the tuner things. I've seen them, but I don't think they do anything.

Reset pcm and tcm. Just make sure you pull every fuse that's labeled pcm or tcm.

That way won't work. I'll post how to do it properly. Fuse numbers are probably different, just make sure you pull every fuse that is labeled pcm or tcm.

The fuses numbers may be different, but make sure you pull everyone of them that has pcm or tcm on it. I have four in my '19 journey.

That's a myth, it's not the correct way to reset pcm.

Most scan tools won't reset pcm. Do this: I'm my 2019 there are 4 fuses that control the pcm and tcm. Yours might be different, all you do is look at your fuse box top and any fuse that has pcm or tcm on it, pull them out. Even the big square one. Then get in the car, close the door, and put on your seat belt. If it's key operated turn the key to the acc option, wait for the binging to stop. Then hold down the brake and turn and hold your key to the start position for about 5 to 7 secs. You'll heat a chime, keep holding it for another 5 to 7 sec until you hear a second chime. Turn the car off and put the fuses back. Start the car and take it for a proper drive cycle, no a/c or radio or lights.

Not the way to do it. Try resetting pcm and tcm. If you want the procedure let me know, it's not unhooking the battery for 5 min.

Did you reset your tcm and pcm?

Did you try to reset your pcm and tcm?

Update: Just learned that if dtc pops up and you clear it the system will not test that dyc again until you fix the issue, unless it's way out of the normal numbers. So I checked my freeze frame and there was a previous code stored in the system. Had a bad exhaust side variable valve solenoid. Replaced that. I changed my IAT sensor collar. I literally cut the original collar off of the original intake box it was connected to cause it had a bell housing around the inlet side. Did some sanding and shaping and it fits perfect. Then I read that I need to reset pcm and tcm. Alot of people said disconnect both battery terminals for at least 5 min and touch them together to clear out stored power. That was wrong. I actually had to pull 4 fuses, then get in the car amd buckle up, press my start button to acc and wait til the dings stop, then with my foot on the brake push and hold down the start button for like 7 to 10 sec until your dash chimes. Some dodge models you have to continue to hold for a second chime. Mine didn't do the second one. After the chime, turn the car off, replace the fuses and take your car out for a proper drive cycle and wa la, I'm now getting 375 miles per tank, my throttle is responding much better. And you can actually hear a difference in the air intake. All my numbers look perfect and everything read ok on my i/m readiness.

So I changed the pcv valve, and installed the crank filter. Don't know how much it's accomplished gas mileage yet, I'll give it a day to get a good read. Sluggishness wise, it still slugs. Lol. I haven't replaced the short ram pipe yet. But when I do I'm gonna redirect downward more and install a heat shield completely around the filter except at the bottom so the air will be coming from under the car. I'm reading pretty high temp on my intake air temp. It got up to 100° today. And I was reading mid to upper 90's iat. Even on the interstate. Hopefully I'll get better temps after I change it up. But what I have further found out is that it's a CARB emissions vehicle, not a federal. I'm 40, and everything I've ever heard about California emission regulations on vehicles make them run like shit. I've done a little research and it's half and half. Half say this, half say that. I'm sure emission stuff like sequential fuel Injection and a heated o2 sensor aren't the problem, but could the three way catalytic converter and exhaust be the issue. And are there other emission stuff that could effect performance. Ive lived in memphis my whole life and have never had a CARB emission vehicle before.

Yes, it runs. Awful gas mileage (12 mpg) and sluggish though. It has some hesitation on the interstate, especially going up hills. I'm changing my intake tube to an aluminum one and adding a crank filter instead of the free air line. I'm gonna check my pcv and other senors also. I'll find the issue.

I wonder how hard it would be to reflash the pcm to recognize an imrc valve? I've been through the drive train wiring harness, and the bundle of the harness that powers the valve IS there. I believe it's just grounded to itself, cause it deletes to a washer clamp and is bolted to the trans. The bolt doesn't do anything but ground to the trans, not a mounting bolt or anything. I took the bolt out and ungrounded the bundle and nothing changes. Everything on my data stream looks normal, besides the original not coming back to ambient pressure. The more I think about the engineering, the more it pisses me off. Everything I've seen and read talk about how good the imrc is and how crucial it is to a dual valve intake, UNTIL it gets stuck open or closed. And if it does stick open or closed, it destroys your engine part by part. Soooo, you don't re-engineer the manifold to compensate for that, they just yank the runners off and plug the actuator hole leaving the mount, and cut the electrical connector off and ground a 5 wire bundle to the trans, cause we don't need to re-engineer that either. If the runners aren't there, isn't that just like it being stuck open?!?

Every video I've seen of every car that has this motor has the runner control valve on it. On such a new car, why would they have a mount for the actuator on the manifold. Wouldn't they just delete the mount if it wasn't needed? Cause I've never seen one without the mount.

19 inch wheels are an option.

So the haynes manual shows it having the imrc. I have the ed3 engine, which is the 2.4l dohc vvt. See pic. You might have to zoom in.

Where did you find that it doesn't use an imrc? Everywhere I look, it says from 2009 to 2019, they all have variable valves and can't go without it. I went and looked at other 2019's and they all have them. Same as caravan and the older Where did you find this info. Everywhere I've looked says from 2009 to 2019 they have dual variable valves and can't go without an imrc. I've looked at other 2019's and they have it. Same with caravan and caliper.

I just bought a 2019 Journey SE 2.4l. Billet Silver Matalic. 19in black viper rims. (Is what I call them) Really good looking car. When I first got it, I loved it. The family and I drove it from Memphis to Orlando for vacation this past June. I noticed that I wasn't getting the gas mileage I should be and it felt slow. I've had a chevy cavalier 2.4l and it was fast. But I blew it off thinking it was the five passengers and luggage. About 2 weeks after we got back, it wouldn't start. It would turn over for like 7 sec but never crank. I didn't have my odb2 scanner, so I guessed the battery and changed it. It ran for about 10 min then stalled out. After 10 min, it cranked with a dtc code. Read the code, crankshaft position sensor, changed it. Another week and I started noticing that it really felt sluggish in the low end. And I was barely getting 300 miles per rank. So I dove down the rabbit hole, reading live data, changing sensors, everything. Then finally, I notice my manifold air pressure would be fine until I drove it. I was actually losing pressure when I drove, it wouldn't work back to ambient. So some how or the other I end up watching a YouTube video on a Google search about losing pressure and learn about the intake manifold runner control(imrc). So I go out to my Journey to check it. I pop the hood and there is no imrc! It's not throwing any codes and I get a n/a reading on live data on my scanner. I immediately call my local dodge dealership, thinking there might be an option to not have the imrc, but was told I absolutely need it. So it seems like someone locked my imrc closed and bypassed the electrical so it wouldnt read or throw a code. Cause i studied the powertrain wiring harness and mine is missing a connector. Thats the only thing i can think of. So I called the dealership I bought it from and told them the whole story. He got the guy from dodges info and said he would call and get the part number and they would take care of it. But he hasn't answered in the last 24 hrs. I talked to dodge again and they said they did talk to them and give them the info. It's nuts to think that if I were most anyone else, they'd never know about it and slowly kill the car.