diymirage

thanks guys, ill see what i can come across locally sounds like stock should be just fine

There a slight wobble in the front brakes, so im gonna need a new set of rotors, any suggestions for good rotors out there that wont break the bank? Any merit in using the slotted rotors ?

Hence the disclaimer about completing the loop I betcha you could connect the ground and hot from the battery together and run it without the battery (but i aint trying it on mine)

You dont need a battery to drive a vehicle, you only need it to power the starter Once its running, the alternator provides all the power needed to run the engine...i would have my alternator tested (But the alternator does need the wiring to complete the loop, so check all your connections aswell)

First thing id check for is to make sure the brake pedal is not sticking

So the 12+8 adapter plugs I'm where the SGM is, unplug two plugs from that and plug the adapter in You then use the adapter as the OBD port As far ad adding remote start, you need next to nothing Think about it, you allready have remote door locks, and you allready have a button that starts the car All the hardware is there (On my truck, I even had the contacts for the remote start in the keyfob, I just needed a new inlay to use it) So if your Journey is just like my truck, you simply need to turn "remote start" and "hood latch" to present You then put a 500 ohm resistor in pin 12 of the BCM, (this is the pin on both my truck and my wifes charger, so dollars to donuts it is the same pin on your journey) tricking the car unto thinking there is a hood latch sensor, and it is closed and now your car is ready for remote start I dont believe the push start key fobs have the hardware for remote start build in, so you will need to buy a new fob with the remote start button and program it to your car

strange, keep us posted, i would love to hear what they say

what do your fobs look like ? if they are the kind that still "plug" in i betcha you have the circuits in the fob for remote start, but if it has a push button, you may be out of luck

man, that is very strange, i tried to read mine out, following your post step by step and it shows mine just fine i wonder if there is a setting that locks you out that might be turned on? i have a similar issue with my wifes grocery getter ('15 pursuit charger) i always figured its a safety feature on that one since it was build as police car

AlfaOBD rocks, what is the error code you are getting, and what steps are you taking ? (I've successfully used the generic 12+8 on my journey) Post a screenshots of the error

It's called approach lighting, shouldn't last more then 90 seconds at most I bet you could shut it off with alfaOBD

I did that to mine, took about an hour and now the picture looks so much better

I grew up in the Netherlands If the catch you going more than 50 km/h over the speedlight they take your license I got clocked going 48 over several times 🤣 Here in the US the fines aren't high at all, but each ticket adds a certain number of points to your license, which the insurance rate is based on, so a 120 dollar ticket can end up costing thousands of dollars over the next 3-5 years

If the nut is stripped, I'd expect it to fall off I must admit, I haven't replaced lugs on a journey yet, but I have on a few different vehicles I've done it on a Bronco and it was a breeze, but ice also done it on a duster and that required the axels fo come out in the back, and the hubs to come off on the front The easiest ever was a vw...it used lugbolts Weather or not this can be done without damage to the wheel also depends on the wheel Steel wheels allow way more access then alloys

Drilling it will move the problem to the lug I would not suggest that

Is there a way to turn this start screen off ? (I know, I can press the accept button, but I shouldn't have to) Is there a way to turn this off in alfaOBD?

The oem battery on my wife's old charger ('08) lasted 14 years

One mm down from what it is (Haven't needed to do wheels on my journey yet) So if it's a 21, grab a 20, 12 point Beat it on and be prepared to replace it

If it wad running and died, it would be the alternator, not the battery The battery serves one purpose and one purpose only : to provide power (to start the engine) when the alternator does not put out any If the alternator goes out the car will run off the battery untill it drains, at which point the car will stall and not restart If the battery is bad, you can Jumpstart the car and it will run fine off the alternator, untill you shut it off and it will not restart

A SGM bypass cable did the trick I now have fogs with brights, global down windows, and I can make changes to the navigation on the fly (Im sure ill think of a few more tricks later...i wonder if i can install the performance pages?) For some reason they call it a 12+8 cable 10 bucks on fleabay https://www.ebay.com/itm/364577184130

You can always find a tuner to shut off the rear O2 sensors They serve no purpose than aiding in the government overreach

Surely they wouldnt put a diesel in an R/T ? Ive had diesels and they are pigs, even my last one, and that one was studded, EGR deleted, chipped, the works

That's pretty impressive I take it the R/T comes with the 3.6?

What is 11/100 in the real world ? We have only done city driving with the journey (using it as a family hauler) and we average 17.5 mpg

How big is the screen on the radio? Several of the mopar radios can be upgraded with "dealer codes" There is a program called alfaOBD that allows you to connect to the car (after plugging something into the OBDII port) and make changes to the car If the hardware is there, but the switch is in the off position, you can use this program to turn it on I used it to enable remote start on my '17 2500 and turn on the performance pages on my wife's grocery getter ('15 pursuit charger)