Geer

Mine's the same. Stand in front of it while its running, preferably on an incline or crouch down - you will be surprised how loud it is.

I have felt from day one of new ownership that the front brakes are undersized. Anyone thinking of towing 3,500 lbs to boot is basically putting a loaded gun to their head. Definitely a design inadequacy. Chrysler just paid $600 to replace the rear brakes on our '10 Grand Caravan with 33,000km. The caliper adapters/supports were causing the brakes to always be slightly on, thus burning out the pads. Those got replaced as well as rotors and pads. But that is a different design issue - not undersized brakes.

This is, what they call in the business, a marketing gimmick.

I found the same information on a more reputable website, however I still have my doubts. According to Allpar, the current Journey platform is supposed to be cancelled within the next couple years as Chrysler retools for all new platforms. Nonetheless, plans can change - Journey sales are very strong, especially in Canada and given the rebound the company is still in, I don't think they will want to fix what isn't broken.

As much as I'd love to see one, and would trade up in a heartbeat, I don't believe this to be verified. First tip-off "Dodge Durango dies"...are you kidding? Sales are robust because it's one of the few american market hold-outs for an 8-cyl truck-based SUV. Ford wimped out the Explorer and GM, not even sure what they have since models have been plain cancelled. There are several chinese sites on the web, exactly like this one, that compile factless and incorrect information. They are BS and only there to peddle advertizing. Read some of the wording on link articles and you'll quickly see...

Mine does this as well. Its normal. I had a chevy equinox that sounded like a can of marbles when you cold started it. The one thing you can do is run synthetic oil if you have cold winters, as this will allow the engine to prime and pump up oil pressure must faster, reducing that window of time when the oil supply is diminished. In fact I run synthetic all year round, as it tends to adhere to metal and thus provides a little more protection during start-up...that's when most engine wear occurs.

Someone forgot to add oil after emptying the crankcase and changing the filter, and then ran the engine up, starving the upper valve train (at the very least). Typically they will start-up and check for leaks while finishing up, and I bet that's what has happened. Or they didn't bother to run it up and it simply left the bay without oil. Permanent engine damage is a major possibility. This is what happens when shops hire kids to do oil changes, becuase there's no profit margin in them (moreso on a 'FREE' oil change). "They couldn't find a problem"...translation: they realized there was no oil in the engine, so added some, but at that point the damage is done. The engine runs of course, but the valve train and possibly cam and crankshaft bearings have been wiped. I'd be fuming mad and would go straight to the top at the dealership. It's no coincidence that your engine with only 10,000 miles is noisy after an oil change. As a last resort, hopefully you've got warranty remaining. That's really terrible - sorry to hear. I hope you get resolution in this.

Yup, they are all like that. It's not a problem, unless you start changing up tires and/or rims beyond the OEM size. You have to be really careful because of this - paying even more attention to tire width which is more critical if you have a look from the front or back.

I am truly at a loss to understand how and why Chrysler is marketing the Rallye as a premium upcharge. It shares body-color mirrors and door handles with base models, they took away the roof racks/bars (at a significant cost savings to Chrysler), and then mark it up $1,500 for adding a badge. The equipment is a step down from an R/T IMO. And if you're not even getting embroidered seats??? Yeah I'd be mad as hell too.

Chrysler changed the documentation to correct the typo in owner's manuals (some apparently, because mine does say 2,500 lbs and in fact derates that for AWD). They didn't change the vehicle or the mechanicals - so there's no engineering reason to reduces the towing capacity.

Sorry but this is wrong. My owner's manual says max 2500 lbs. I own a 2011. Furthermore check out out Dodge Towing Guide for 2011. http://www.dodge.com/en/towing_payload/2011/ 2500 lbs max for the 3.6

The AWD in my '11 R/T has exceeded my expectations. It performed OK with the OEM all seasons, but when I put on good winter tires, wow that thing is a real winter performer. I told myself 'never again' will I buy a FWD suv, after not getting AWD in my last- an '07 Equinox. Regretted that decision instantly. But the R/T has made up for that. It will leave everyone else behind at a slippery intersection and with good winter tires pulls down equally fast in stops. I do have one small complaint - the ESP is slow to respond - I find the vehicle is into the start of a skid too long before ESP applies brakes and throttle reduction. Chevy's stabilitrak senses and responds to a skid far quicker. What I love about the Dodge AWD programming is how efficiently it engages the rear axle in cornering. You can apply throttle midway into a corner to bring it around and follow through nicely because the PCM is engaging AWD in a corner. Try that with FWD and all you'll get is plowing (understeer).

The tow prep is mostly about the oil cooler - which is best added at the factory and definitely something you want as part of your powertrain warranty as opposed to just getting it put on by a dealer which gets you 1-year only. I like the fact the hitch is seperate. I put the tow prep in when I ordered my R/T but as yet have not had a need to use and therefore not buy a hitch. 'There if and when I need it'. Furthermore I added tow prep because I bought my R/T for performance both street and freeway and an oil cooler is definitely something you want added for that. 2011 tow capacity is only 2,500 lbs. I don't think it had EVER been 3,500. The old 3.5 had significantly less horsepower and also less torque - can't imagine they rated the 09s or 10s at 3,500. There's ALOT of confusion about tow capacity because the hitch ITSELF is rated at 3,500. It doesn't imply you can tow that much, but true enought that is somewhat misleading.

I installed Mopar mirror caps and R/T fender emblems, as well as filler cap. Didn't have to add the handles since they come with the R/T standard. My advice: take the double sided tape from the mirror kit and throw it in the garbage. It will stick for a month or two, then lose its tack and the mirror cap will come loose. I used 4 or 5 dabs of silicone RTV on the mirror housing - works much better and has a tenacious grip. Also allows water to drain out (and trust me, water will get in between the housing and the cap). Don't go crazy with the RTV or you'll never get the cap off should one need to be replaced.

I doubt that very much. My salesman checked with the mechanics. There are somethings that are just not possible with the way the car is wired or assembled - just like you cannot add factory reverse camera even if you have the 8.4. With the Grand Caravan - My dealer installed for me the mopar factory remote starter at the same time. They also told me that the factory bluetooth could be added, per my query. I tend to think they'd want to sell me as much as I wanted to buy, so there was a specfic reason the auto headlamps was a no go.