Geer

Mine's the same. Stand in front of it while its running, preferably on an incline or crouch down - you will be surprised how loud it is.

I have felt from day one of new ownership that the front brakes are undersized. Anyone thinking of towing 3,500 lbs to boot is basically putting a loaded gun to their head. Definitely a design inadequacy. Chrysler just paid $600 to replace the rear brakes on our '10 Grand Caravan with 33,000km. The caliper adapters/supports were causing the brakes to always be slightly on, thus burning out the pads. Those got replaced as well as rotors and pads. But that is a different design issue - not undersized brakes.

This is, what they call in the business, a marketing gimmick.

I found the same information on a more reputable website, however I still have my doubts. According to Allpar, the current Journey platform is supposed to be cancelled within the next couple years as Chrysler retools for all new platforms. Nonetheless, plans can change - Journey sales are very strong, especially in Canada and given the rebound the company is still in, I don't think they will want to fix what isn't broken.

As much as I'd love to see one, and would trade up in a heartbeat, I don't believe this to be verified. First tip-off "Dodge Durango dies"...are you kidding? Sales are robust because it's one of the few american market hold-outs for an 8-cyl truck-based SUV. Ford wimped out the Explorer and GM, not even sure what they have since models have been plain cancelled. There are several chinese sites on the web, exactly like this one, that compile factless and incorrect information. They are BS and only there to peddle advertizing. Read some of the wording on link articles and you'll quickly see...

Mine does this as well. Its normal. I had a chevy equinox that sounded like a can of marbles when you cold started it. The one thing you can do is run synthetic oil if you have cold winters, as this will allow the engine to prime and pump up oil pressure must faster, reducing that window of time when the oil supply is diminished. In fact I run synthetic all year round, as it tends to adhere to metal and thus provides a little more protection during start-up...that's when most engine wear occurs.

Someone forgot to add oil after emptying the crankcase and changing the filter, and then ran the engine up, starving the upper valve train (at the very least). Typically they will start-up and check for leaks while finishing up, and I bet that's what has happened. Or they didn't bother to run it up and it simply left the bay without oil. Permanent engine damage is a major possibility. This is what happens when shops hire kids to do oil changes, becuase there's no profit margin in them (moreso on a 'FREE' oil change). "They couldn't find a problem"...translation: they realized there was no oil in the engine, so added some, but at that point the damage is done. The engine runs of course, but the valve train and possibly cam and crankshaft bearings have been wiped. I'd be fuming mad and would go straight to the top at the dealership. It's no coincidence that your engine with only 10,000 miles is noisy after an oil change. As a last resort, hopefully you've got warranty remaining. That's really terrible - sorry to hear. I hope you get resolution in this.

Yup, they are all like that. It's not a problem, unless you start changing up tires and/or rims beyond the OEM size. You have to be really careful because of this - paying even more attention to tire width which is more critical if you have a look from the front or back.

I am truly at a loss to understand how and why Chrysler is marketing the Rallye as a premium upcharge. It shares body-color mirrors and door handles with base models, they took away the roof racks/bars (at a significant cost savings to Chrysler), and then mark it up $1,500 for adding a badge. The equipment is a step down from an R/T IMO. And if you're not even getting embroidered seats??? Yeah I'd be mad as hell too.

Chrysler changed the documentation to correct the typo in owner's manuals (some apparently, because mine does say 2,500 lbs and in fact derates that for AWD). They didn't change the vehicle or the mechanicals - so there's no engineering reason to reduces the towing capacity.

Sorry but this is wrong. My owner's manual says max 2500 lbs. I own a 2011. Furthermore check out out Dodge Towing Guide for 2011. http://www.dodge.com/en/towing_payload/2011/ 2500 lbs max for the 3.6

The AWD in my '11 R/T has exceeded my expectations. It performed OK with the OEM all seasons, but when I put on good winter tires, wow that thing is a real winter performer. I told myself 'never again' will I buy a FWD suv, after not getting AWD in my last- an '07 Equinox. Regretted that decision instantly. But the R/T has made up for that. It will leave everyone else behind at a slippery intersection and with good winter tires pulls down equally fast in stops. I do have one small complaint - the ESP is slow to respond - I find the vehicle is into the start of a skid too long before ESP applies brakes and throttle reduction. Chevy's stabilitrak senses and responds to a skid far quicker. What I love about the Dodge AWD programming is how efficiently it engages the rear axle in cornering. You can apply throttle midway into a corner to bring it around and follow through nicely because the PCM is engaging AWD in a corner. Try that with FWD and all you'll get is plowing (understeer).

The tow prep is mostly about the oil cooler - which is best added at the factory and definitely something you want as part of your powertrain warranty as opposed to just getting it put on by a dealer which gets you 1-year only. I like the fact the hitch is seperate. I put the tow prep in when I ordered my R/T but as yet have not had a need to use and therefore not buy a hitch. 'There if and when I need it'. Furthermore I added tow prep because I bought my R/T for performance both street and freeway and an oil cooler is definitely something you want added for that. 2011 tow capacity is only 2,500 lbs. I don't think it had EVER been 3,500. The old 3.5 had significantly less horsepower and also less torque - can't imagine they rated the 09s or 10s at 3,500. There's ALOT of confusion about tow capacity because the hitch ITSELF is rated at 3,500. It doesn't imply you can tow that much, but true enought that is somewhat misleading.

I installed Mopar mirror caps and R/T fender emblems, as well as filler cap. Didn't have to add the handles since they come with the R/T standard. My advice: take the double sided tape from the mirror kit and throw it in the garbage. It will stick for a month or two, then lose its tack and the mirror cap will come loose. I used 4 or 5 dabs of silicone RTV on the mirror housing - works much better and has a tenacious grip. Also allows water to drain out (and trust me, water will get in between the housing and the cap). Don't go crazy with the RTV or you'll never get the cap off should one need to be replaced.

I doubt that very much. My salesman checked with the mechanics. There are somethings that are just not possible with the way the car is wired or assembled - just like you cannot add factory reverse camera even if you have the 8.4. With the Grand Caravan - My dealer installed for me the mopar factory remote starter at the same time. They also told me that the factory bluetooth could be added, per my query. I tend to think they'd want to sell me as much as I wanted to buy, so there was a specfic reason the auto headlamps was a no go.

I asked my dealer if it could be done on a '10 Grand Caravan I bought new and the answer was 'no'. Don't know why. I would have thought these days that the master wiring harness for the dash would be fitted for plug and play on all options, but not so I guess. It used to be you simply ordered each option you wanted off a check list, but nowadays you have to buy trim levels and equipment groups. At least with the R/T I find the value is good, they stuff alot of equipment into it standard and there's nothing I feel like I'm missing. This is the first vehicle I have bought new that I can actually say that.

hmmm...so that must mean each sidewall is marked accordingly (I didn't check that)...I just noticed that there were arrows on the sidewall either pointed left or right relative to the tread. But what you say makes more sense....and it's up to the tire installer to mount them accordingly. Do you like the X-Ice tires? One of the brands I was considering...

I ordered the correct 225/70/16s back in late September from 1010 tires. Got them for an awesome price, and did not have to pay any PST or environmental levy/tax plus they offered free shipping to boot. Problem - ordered a bit late and they were back ordered. They arrived a couple weeks ago and I finally put them on my '11 R/T AWD tonight. What can I say....WOW - the reviews are right, these are excellent winter tires, particularly given the fact they are cheaper than the the so-called premium winter tires. In the past I have paid much more for "premium" winter rubber and got far less in the way of actual winter performance. These have excellent bite in snow and on ice, seem to provide very good handling. Noisy, but I've never had winter tires that were not. I really have to push the pentastar hard to get the tires to break and enable the traction control. Much to my surprise (given the cost) these are in fact directional tires, so the treads are designed to work with the direction of rotation and maximize braking ability (thus you need to buy matched pairs, not just 4 of the same). Between that and the seamless performance of the AWD, these tires have really transformed my Journey into a winter performer. The 19" OE all-seasons are absolute garbage in cold weather. And hey, here the roads are covered with ice almost 6 months of the year, so investing in winter tires is a no-brainer. Definitely recommend the Generals to anyone. And IMO no sense bothering with 18" or 19" winter wheels, the 16"s are cheaper (both in terms of rim and tire), much more forgiving and I believe will perform better in adverse conditions.

Hey, that's great - congrats! I'm not 100% familiar with the US line-up but you must be getting the 3.6 in the SXT - you won't be disappointed...after all 110 extra horses is a big performance gain with virtually no difference in fuel economy. Also it will improve your resale value down the road. And don't worry - I won't call you a "pentasnob" !!!

Welcome. I have an '11 R/T AWD, bought it brand new in May (factory ordered it actually). I went with a 5-seater and love it. A couple reasons: 1. I would use the third row 1% of the time, therefore 2. no point getting the third row option - the extra seats come at the cost of cargo space, add alot of dead weight (200-300 lbs for seats, rear hvac etc) and its a tight squeeze in the 3rd row. 3. this sort of thing always results in a compromise to something else To answer your question - in a five seater the second row folts flat (both sides of the split back) and furthermore the split backs also recline, and both left/right seats are slide-adjustable front to rear about 8" Very convenient! If your stowing a stroller etc - you would likely regret a third seat vehicle. With a five seater you get a large removable folding hard cargo floor standard, it folds up or comes out entirely to reveal an additional 8 or so inches of cargo well area beneath. I took my cargo floor out and use the cargo well to store groceries etc - they can't roll out the well. I also have the roll-up vinyl cargo cover on top - another nice feature. Power - to each his own, but don't forget the Journey tips the scales at over 4000 lbs, especially when you add the third row its over 4300. That's why the 2.4 is a stone in this vehicle. The 3.6 pentastar on the other hand is stellar! It outguns every other suv in this class, and then some. I like putting juice to the wheels, and I have always come out on top when challenged, even by expensive luxury imports. The 3.6 does not run out of jam, the power keeps coming as it rows through the gears (and the 6-speed does a fine job of that as well. Anyway, I think power is important especially on the highway - I wouldn't cheap out with the 2.4 but again thats just a personal preference. The 3.6 seems to be bullet-proof - its a brand new state of the art engine - they really did their homework on it IMO.

I feel as though I got short changed by Chrysler on my '11 R/T also nicely equipped. I ponied up to the 8.N (Navigation) as the brochure said BLUETOOTH WAS INCLUDED. It was not upon delivery. I called Customer Care, but they were unapologetic and did not care the least. Basically it amounts to mis-advertizing. I can see why you're POd...I love my 8.4N, it is really incredible. When I have people travel in my car, they are basically stunned by the massive screen, all the features, and the Nav to boot. I know why they haven't been able to put the 8.4s in of late, but it's still a shame. You have to buy one hell of an expensive car to get that same kind of tech.

I bought one from my dealership and installed it the second day of ownership. Seen them on Ebay but don't know if the quality is the same. The mopar piece is pricey but also of very good quality. Easy to install...only 2 screws...you remove the original with the hinged bracket and replace in kind. Just put some painters tape around the front edge of the quarter panel so you don't scratch your paint - removing is a bit tricky. Haven't seen another Journey in Winnipeg with one...I like having it because it's easy to identify my own car from others. I added it plus the chrome mirror covers which I love, and also some R/T badges on the fenders to make it my own. Sets it apart from the pack...

No, I'm going to run 16" steel rims for the winter, so I bought the Generals in the OEM 16" size. They dump so much salt on our roads in the winter time, I won't run good wheels in it. 16s with taller sidewalls probably respond better to winter roads anyway.

I ordered through 1010tires.com...went with General Altimax Arctics which are supposed to be very good. Got the correct OEM tire size (Canadian Tire does not sell that size). Couldn't beat the price on 1010tires, plus no PST and even got free shipping. Due in within a week - hope so, these Khumos are just awful. Also I run Goodyear Nordics on our Caravan. Pretty good winter tires for the money. Those are the ones that Cdn Tire sells exclusively.

There are two distinct controls going on that should not be confused: ESP (stability program) and TC (traction control). The only time ESP kicks in is when the vehicle is sliding relative to direction the car is pointing, tires are turned etc; particularly during a cornering maneuver. Traction control works independently of ESP and will apply braking and/or throttle control when the drive wheels spin out relative to the road speed (senses different tire speeds at each corner). With my former FWD Equinox I almost always turned off both traction control, and to a lesser extent, the ESP. I could control the throttle much better than how I felt the computer did. When there was alot of snow to plow through, I would ALWAYS turn off the ESP because it's a sure bet it will leave you stuck in those conditions - it cuts throttle at the worst time, when you need to power through heavy snow. Basically it will leave you stuck. Most people are completely oblivious to that fact, and assume the vehicle, with all these great features like ESP and TC will drive itself through poor conditions. WRONG!!! My Equinox had a front-rear weight distribution of almost 50/50 and therefore had very neutral and predictable handling with the ESP off. I could sense and control the movement of the vehicle well enough myself. This can be dangerous in a vehicle with a skewed weight distribution - it really comes down to the abilities of the driver and knowing how your vehicle will perform with no ESP intervention. ESP is a SAFETY feature that enables control of the vehicle beyond what the driver can do, because it can apply brake response to each individual wheel - something a driver cannot do. It also responds much faster, well before a driver would even realize what's happening. And that's why there's the button to turn off TC and/or ESP - depending on conditions you don't neccessarily want to have them on. If you do get stuck, you MUST turn them off or the vehicle will actually prevent itself from getting unstuck as the driver attempts to rock the vehicle etc. My '11 R/T AWD is my first AWD vehicle and I'm excited to finally have it. Worth every penny - outperforms FWD in any road condition. However the vehicle will only perform as well as the tires on it, and with the roads icy as we speak up here, it's evident that the factory Khumo's are TERRIBLE on snow and ice! My new winter tires cannot get here fast enough.