2late4u

must be the size to make up for .well you know.....anyways as i said before good luck and be safe...

you are sadly wrong on the speedos being set higher then actual, i worked at Chrysler in Huntsville Al and we made the speedos and they are set on dead on accurate, they have to be set that way other wise they would get sued if they set them wrong.the rest of your post is what it is , but it doesn't sound like a slight mod to me anyways good luck to you and be safe....

go with the sxt myself them tires are a lot cheaper to replace then the 19 inch (they do look better but dont last as long either)

hope every thing works out for you, i am surprised they are giving you the part for you to put on,let us know how everything works out for you. as jkeaton says not to bad of a price for them to put the new caliper on and i would have had them recheck the other 3 caliper and pins to make sure they were okay( just so it would have been on record that they had been corroded also) just to be safe and then let them do the fluid flush as if that doesn't fix everything then it is still on them, if you have problems at home now they might not cover the repair. good luck...

not trying to rain on your parade but you are going to be off almost 1 mph at 20 mph and almost 3 mph at 65 mph just for the sake of bigger tires which might cause some problems in a small fender bender or really rough azz road, oh well to each their own.and one final thought if you live in a snowy rejoin the build up of ice and slush could cause concern for tire clearance but as i live in sunny AL no such problems for me just the pollen avalanche that we get during the spring that changes my silver journey into a yellowish green color... good luck and keep it between the ditches ..

nope

why not just keep improving the weak points and add a little more value and the journey could end up being a classic. VW had a winner with the bug as no matter how old it got you could always find parts for them and they worked great for what they were and the value they gave....to me if that is the new journey i would not be interested in it

nope and havent heared anyone complain of this problem on their journey. good luck

first off the factory doesn't grease them they come in from the supplier ready to be put on,yes its possible they didnt get greased from the supplier, second i just did my 2014 70 k on the pads they looked almost brand new(oh well) but i did add some slide pin grease as they did look a little on the skimpy side but dont overload them as they need room in the boots.i live in Al so we dont get much snow, more ice and they really dont salt the roads so my work is a lot easir then northern states.and no they wont give you the caliper and if they do cover them they would be the ones doing the work and with my mopar max warranty i have a 100, ded. any ways maybe you dont have a ded. good luck on what ever happens and report back to the forum....

so what was the light mod?

so you have tried 2 starters from O'Reilly's and they were defective and you tried a 3rd one, i would have got my money back went to a different place or back to the dodge parts dept. i think you need to take it to a shop so it can be looked at and fixed.

i was going to say the same thing as jkeaton did, yrs ago we didnt have all these expensive parts to contend with ,just carbs and hand chokes then the auto chokes and then the dreaded automatic transmission. dam them auto makers....

do yourself a favor and as soon as they replace it drill a small hole thur the side towards the front top side and run a small black headed screw thur it to secure it to the metal frame so it wont break again..

welcome to the group....

most 3rd party plans make you jump thur a a lot of hoops before they fix or cover your car the Mopar one is more expensive but at least you know what you are getting check out http://www.chryslerfactoryplans.com/ cheapest i found and that is where i bought from...welcome to the group

where the rubber brake line is held by the metal bracket that is bolted to the strut. check out you tube for this problem where the rust builds up under the metal bracket closing off the rubber line..

so then you didnt find the wires at the rear of the journey, RIGHT.

on my 2011 main street journey i had removed all the badges and the wife was telling me how does anyone know what we are driving and i just laughed later on we were on a trip and i was filling up with gas and a guy comes over and said man i really like your vehicle but who makes it, i had to laugh over that one..... as usual the wife ended up being right...

i usually remove all the badges myself but i did leave on the crossroad on my 2014

to be honest i wouldn't want the battery inside the car or under the seat just in case it leaked or went bad since it has acid in them. but that is just me i guess

well you could do a power steering fluid flush with new fluid. also is your serpentine belt have the correct tension what is the age of the belt and it also could be the tensioner going bad as for the belt slipping of course on a 2015 it shouldn't be bad but you never know, good luck on what ever you do...no mention of how many miles so i assume your out of warranty,you could go to a local garage for help on this also.

got my new tires on and got the alignment done i am ready to roll, sure does ride better now with good tread on the journey... the alignment i bought was a 4 wheel lifetime from Quick lane that are associated with the ford dealerships cost me $179. so as long as i own the journey unlimited alignments most alignments around here cost about $70-90 for a 4 wheel alignment

well i got my Wagner brake pads and put them on this morning, all said and done the org pads with 72 k on them look only about 1/2 wore out, but since i was that far into it i went ahead an replaced them started with the rear and they were wore a little more than half way than the fronts were . they were a piece of cake and i used one of thoes cube dice tool to rotate the caliper piston back in it turned real easy,of course in the you tube videos the pistons look really corroded but as i am in the south mine were real clean and easy to turn,one thing when removing and putting the new pads in move the brake pad closer to each edge before trying to tilt them in or out makes it a lot easier to get them pushed in or out,same with the front pads easy to remove and reinstall i didnt replace the rotors as they were butter smooth and wasn't having any problems with pulsation or noise from them. from the looks of the OEM pads probally could have went another 25-30 k on them but now i am set for a long long time..now on to new tires and a 4 wheel alignment and then ill be set for our trips as soon as the wife gets well enough she had a mitral valve replaced with open heart surgery about 4 weeks ago and she is doing real good but they dont recommend no unnecessary riding in cars for at least 6 weeks so on the 8 week we have a casnio trip planned.....

well i think you need to find a good mechanic as i know there has to be one around you somewhere. other than that the starters you are using that keep getting broken ,where are you getting them from? most after market parts are not always up to snuff. they will cost you more, but dodge dealership parts are built to a better standard than aftermarket parts,good luck on what ever you decide but give the thought of finding a mech you can trust as you are just spinning your wheels right know and i know its frustrating but cars are a lot more complicated these days then they use to be yrs ago. hell i dont even want to change my own plugs anymore.

expensive part might want to make sure that is whats wrong, or that is the right part as a lot of different kinds of that is listed. good luck