2late4u

I believe that you can just remove the rear shaft going to the rear and then just have FWD,not the perfect solution but cheaper than junking a car or spending huge $$$.....my daughter had a jeep patriot which was making a huge racket and the mech disabled the rear shaft by unhooking it and then took it for a test drive but it still made the noise...thought it was the rear diff going bad ended up being a bad wheel bearing even tho the regular mechanic no the wheel bearings were good...OH well you never know, the dealership found the wheel bearing instead of the rear diff.

My cousin worked for several different railroads over the years as they went Thru there consolidations and ended up being CSX, he started out a reg worker then got laid off and then called back as a mechanic trainee, and then laid off again then called back as a engineer trainee, and finally got enough time in to not be laid off, and then he went into salary there and ended up becoming the yard manager for CSX and they transferred him all over the country every few yrs and then he finally retired and man he is well off with a fancy home in florida and they just built a big home on a golf course in Tn

also the blue tooth module has been a known parasitic draw as well,try disconnecting that as well

It should BUT you should check with your local dodge dealership parts for more complete info to be sure

my neighbor mentioned as I drove past him that my journey seemed to have a whine that he was hearing, it was real cold that morning and I had just started it and took off as well I had noticed it before but it goes away after a few minutes f warming up,,3.6 eng here with 152 k on the clock

why did you replace the coil packs,just a waste of $$$ unless you were having a problem with them,,they are either good or bad.....

I would buy a new set of pugs and install these before I would do anything else NGK V-Power Nickel Plug Number ZFR5F-11 Spark Plug - 2262 the electrode on these are thicker then on the extended range spark plugs but other makers they should be replaced every 30 k you will have problems with the more expensive plugs you can buy these at o'reillys for around $4.69 each or off Amazon for around 4 for $ 15.77...STICK with the NGK brand as well

If things didn't go wrong, life would be just too boring to enjoy

TPM module NOT the TIPM module two totally different modules and NO they are not GOOD ,,,,,,, the tpms module is remembering the last position and giving false readings, I just went Thru what you are experiencing 6 months ago on my 2014 crossroad was about to give up on it and not bother to fix it and the wife wasn't happy with that, so I went to my tire shop and they messed with it a while and then said well the batteries are going bad and I had them replaced cost me around $300 parts and labor for 4 new sensors if I remember correctly,,,, and THAT fixed my problem,,,the TPM module is in your rear left wheel well above the top of the tire well

no,, but it happens to all different car manufacturers even the imports more often I read where they used soybean oil in the wire insulation that can draw the mice, first iv ever heard of this happening to a journey, my grandsons altima had problems with mice in his engine compartment they did around 250 of damage.

could be the wiring going Thur the black rubber sleeve ast the upper rear hatch or the actual camera located in the hatch back

are you saying you don't have a regular speedo that shows you how fast your going? my distance to empty only shows in the info section.

First off welcome to the group .............so does your gas gage work when you fill it up from empty? I assume you are talking about the info telling you what you have left before running out ( distance till empty)....if your fuel tank is full and the gas gage is saying empty then replacing the fuel pump/level float in your tank would be the answer unless you have some bad wiring somewhere between the tank causing the problem,,,if its just the distance till empty info sensor then I believe you are out of luck as your journey is at least 14 yrs old and I have never heard anyone else complain of this problem...good luck and please report back on what ever you find out to your problem for others to learn from it....You could try to do a reset by removing the cables from the battery post I am not sure if yours has the battery disconnect near the upper firewall that we have on the newer journey but let it stay disconnected for around 20 minutes or so and then reconnect...does the same thing as if you are rebooting your computer might help and doesn't cost anything

well went to use the air a little bit today cold on the drivers side and hot on the passenger side no matter when moving from the reg vents to the floor or into the def mode still cold on drivers side and hot on passenger side, so I let down the glove box and then also moved the padded panel under the glove box so I could see better and the blend door wasn't moving at all so I wiggled the electrical connector a bit and also tapped on the blend door with a long screwdriver and then it started working again,,now this was the small blend door on the left side of the glove box and towards the back NOT the big vanilla color wheel attached to a different blend door,, the one I was working on controls JUST the heat or ac for the passenger side and the controls for the vents do NOT make it move,so don't get that confused in your mind I added a small video that I found on the web...............

thanks for replying back on what solved your problem for others to learn from

the Mopar upper links are non adj,,,I went with 2 upper lateral links adj and a 4 wheel alignment and this was yrs ago and cost me between 350-400

I didn't grind any paint off the studs but I did cleaned it real good with a wire brush and I live in Alabama with almost no salt problems like most experience ,I even ran a separate ground from the negative battery jump points to the wires and ground stud and that didn't make any difference as well, It turned off cold again today around 55 degrees so I didn't mess with it but I did take it to my most trusted mechanic one that I only will use and showed and explained everything that has went on and what I had done and was asking if it would be worth cutting off the 2 ground lugs connectors and maybe a couple of inches of wire off the wires and reattach new ones, and,his advise to me was to leave it alone, as he said most times when it has the internal problem failure code then it is the unit going bad even if it is just intermittent and since it will be covered under my warranty if we start messing with it they might try to deny my warranty claim on the repair that is IF they ever get a replacement part,so the only thing I don't like is the cruise control not working it isn't a serious problem to me, just frustrating...........BUT I still have that nagging feeling that it is due to the ground wires are involved....

well after taking another look at your picture you are showing the ground points of the passenger side so I went and moved mine over to that stud as you did still no difference and as you had said about the recall on those wires there I had mine done as well so I flipped the wires so they went on backwards from the original position of them and then checked my warning lights and they were out, so I took it for a drive and then about 1 mile down the road the lights came on again, hmm so I went back home and took them off and wiggle the wires and such and then re-tightened them down and after doing this a couple of times the lights were off again but then came on after driving a mile or two.it makes me want to strip the wires back as each as 2 wires coming together and maybe they might have some corrosion in there causing intermittent connection plus the coating from the recall looks kind of sketchy as well.

Have the same code and have been waiting on the abs unit to come back in stock at the dealership for over a yr, ( waiting on them as I have the max warranty) they say they may get them in Feb 2024 anyways it started working again this summer but when it turned off cold this fall it the lights came back on and the abs still not working ,, really didn't expect this to work but is easy to get to so I tried it and nope its still not working and the warning lights are still on, my stepson has a scanner and I'll have him bring it over this weekend and clear the codes to see if that helps but I don't have any real hope it will,but will repost if it does

check your return hose from the coolant jug to the rad to see if any small cracks/loose connections that might not leak but wont keep suction action of coolant back to the rad

check out you tube for the quick and easy way to replace the heater core from the drivers side,,,sounds like you have a blend door problem and there are at least 3 of them checkout YouTube as well on them, since you are getting good heat at times then it has to be the blend doors giving you the problem..good luck and please report back on what you find to be your answer to your problem for others to learn from

thanks for coming back and posting your experience/solution... that is what makes a forum work

yes it could be possible after all it's a 12 yr old car,,, do a complete flush of the system then add new coolant and I would change out the thermostat as well,,which eng do you have? 3.6 is real easy and make sure you bleed the air out of the system as well. good luck

any codes that you know of,, you can check by pushing the start button 3 full cycles from off to on for any codes there are videos on YouTube to show how to do it of courses it doesn't show all the codes that could be there.Please report back on what you find out

well I see the whole assy listed on eBay kind of pricey ,might want to check there or check with your local dealership for the correct answer