2late4u

good luck ,cars are getting so confusing now, wont even try to change the plugs on these journeys .....

thanks for the response and hope everything turns out good and many miles of happy driving to you and your family.....

well as i said in my post ,that part should be covered for 2yrs and unlimited mileage in the U.S. , Canada might be different but you might want to check on if it was a covered part from the first repair. glad i had the extended warranty as it covers rentals also for any covered breakdown and since i was on a trip about 250 miles from home that rental was very helpful. P.S. i wouldn't use that dealership no way no how, of course hindsight it is easy to say that. glad you got it fixed and hope you have many happy miles down the road....

well i just google it and found the location on 2.4 engine and if your local dodge dealer doesn't know where it is then you need to go to a different dealership they should be able to help you ,check with the parts guy at the dealer they usually have books with diagrams to help you ....good luck

so how did you decided it was the second pump, did the dealer diagnose the problem. sounds like you are doing your own install good luck and keep us informed on the repair for future posters on this problem.......

lol. i bet i know and also only a year ago.....

try using a mr. clean magic eraser pad can be bought at walmart or any grocery store .i use them on fiberglass walls in tub and they dont scratch but removes marks great. good luck

just happened to noticed this listed under my my picture when i post how many post XXXx then under that 0 warning post in light gray typing i have never seen this before, so have i just not seen that for this long or is it something new??? looked all over the site couldn't find nothing saying any thing about warnings, so i guess i'm ok since i have none LOL

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Re: MotoMaster Eliminator Battery at Crappy Tire Originally Posted by Carson Maybe crappy tire is better, but I have heard places charging hidden fees if you try to claim for the replacement. For example they can charge for installation ("warranty only applies if installed professionally", or alternator test ("we have to make sure your alternator is working well before you can get the replacement, or you will be coming back"), those fees ranges from $20-$40. Make sure you ask about that. TRUE 100%. CrappyTire. Experienced it myself today. I bought http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en last year as my old battery died. This Canadian Tire product lasted me 1.5 only year and died today. Battery came with the Extended Warranty (2 years) and 24-h roadside assistance, brochure had the number which I called. - My battery died. Can you send tow truck and take me to Can Tire so that they can replace their product under warranty? -- Well, we can send the tow truck, but you'll have to pay for service. - Will you reimburse the cost of towing since I got stranded because of you product? -- Yes, we will reimburse the cost of towing, but only up to $25 and provided that repair shop officially concludes that battery is faulty. - What can you do then? -- We can send a booster truck to give your car a boost - Can the booster truck operator test the battery on the spot and confirm it's faulty? -- No - If I'm positive that battery needs to be replaced - can booster truck operator replace it on the spot and save me hassle of going to repair shop? -- No Quite a service, huh? So I called my friend, who lives nearby, he came with a booster battery - car started fine. Just to be sure we disconnected booster battery - car won't start. Connected it again - car starts OK. It seems that logic is very simple here - my CanTire battery is dead. Well, as it turned out later it's not so simple in from Canadian Tire perspective. I took the car to CanadianTire garage and asked them to replace it as it's under warranty. They told me to bring the battery to the store, they will test it and and if it's bad the'll give me new battery. Since I had no tools on me I asked them to take the battery out and install a replacement. $25 for the labor, was their response. My argument that it's their product that failed and cost associated with its replacement should be carried by CanadianTire itself, was bluntly rejected with the statement that "mechanics can't work for free". I had to say OK, otherwise battery wouldn't have been replaced today. "And do the AVR test" manager told mechanic. "What's AVR test?" i asked. "Testing the battery to ensure it's faulty indeed" said manager. So then mechanic clamped the tester to the battery, played with it for 5 mins and said that battery is good. "If it's good, why the car starts with booster battery and fails with mine?" I asked. He tried starting the car - no luck. Then he brought their booster battery - car started just fine. So he called for the manager. Manager pretty much repeated all his steps and then declared: Battery is good, alternator is good. WTF, do these guys even listen to what they are saying?? Then he probably realized that there is some contradiction between his words and the fact that car fails to start on my battery. "We'll test it on the computer" he said and then plugged the car to a bigger stationary tester. 10 mins later manager walks over and says "Your battery is dead, we'll replace it for you". Whew, finally some sense here, I thought. So they replaced the battery and asked me pay the bill. Thinking I'll be paying $25 for the labor (battery installation) I looked at the bill and it says $50! WTF!!! Turns out "labor" was just a word thrown around by the manager. The bill showed $19 for AVR Test (to test the battery) and $25 for installation (all before taxes). I tried to argue that I already knew that battery is dead, plus they couldn't even test properly - why the hell they even ran this test and charge me then? Manager said that they can't take customer's word for battery diagnosis plus his mechanics can't work for free they need to be paid. I didn't have time to continue those argument and had no choice but to pay $50 for battery replacement that was still under warranty in order to get my car back. By the way, the brochure for Extended Warranty had the following words: "We've got you covered! Get more than a new battery, get peace of mind too! If your Eliminator battery should happen to fail, Canadian Tire will replace it for free!" So there I got it - crappy battery that lasted only 1.5 years. And "Peace of mind". CanTire's way found this while checking out your new battery.....

best 2 days of boat ownership.... the day you buy it and the day you sell it !!!! been there done that also about the same for inground pools.........

looks like a time to find a good electrical specialist mechanic is next... they would be listed in the yellow pages. So many things could be causing the electrical draw down....

so is it ther org battery in your 2011? take it to a local parts store auto zone ,advance auto, to name a few and have them check the battery to see if its good and no problems with it. and have them check your alt for charging and starter power draw. then give us some info on what you find...clean your cable connections real good..

he should have told you immediately if it was a covered part or not as all he has to do is pull it up on his computer ,unless you didnt ask them.... and it wouldn't be covered under the standard powertrain warranty but would be under the extended warranty coverage. but when i've replaced motor mounts before i've never heard sounds like you were describing maybe a clunk or knock but not grinding noise unless maybe they were real, bad dont know good luck . also would have been a lot cheaper even using oem mopar parts done at a regular mech. shop.....

now if you want oem from the dealership the joints are real expensive here in the us about 400. each got her s for about 96. each but not as good quality but alot cheaper...i kept her old ones thought i might find some one to rebuild them but them days are over for someone local to do it.......

that would be one reason i wouldn't but parts from anything over the internet.i had bought cv joints from my local parts dealer (yes they did cost more than the internet )for my daughters caravan and replaced both sides. well 6 months down the road one went bad probably her fault as she is real hard on her caravan as she uses it for her postal route any ways had it towed home took out what was left of the joint took it down to the local advance auto store they replaced it no problems and had the car going in a couple of hours and so far no more problems from that .now the rack and pinion steering is leaking told her that goes to her other mechanic not me......

if your dealer does the install with all mopar parts then yes it would be covered under the dodge warranty..

any parts store can check for codes for you for free, quick way to see if its your scanner or something with the journey, what about the plugs did you change them????also my daughters caravan had a problem something like you are talking about and one mech. finally found it. it was the connector was shorting out inside the plug that was connecting to her coil....he replace that plug and it fixed her problem of course that was after a set of plugs and plug wires and replacing 3 ign coils and about $400 in labor charges between the dealership and then his place of business good luck....

had one go bad on my 2014 at about 40k had it replaced at the dealership glad i had the max lifetime warranty also he said it will be under a parts warranty for 2 yrs and unlimited miles for that part so wouldn't cost anything if it fails again within that time frame, other wise it cost me $107. for my deductible with my extended warranty ...never had any problems on my 2011 with the oil sensor traded it at 70 k for my crossroad....

well that is how you check a cv joint and they usually will click when they are going bad,after market joints are alot cheaper but their quality is not as good as oem parts, you might have got a bad one. if you bought it locally from from a parts store you could get their manager to ride and hear it and they probably will replace it under warranty. when you installed the shaft into the trans did you make sure it engaged and locked in real good ? you should have been able to jerk on it like you were removing it and it would have stayed locked in? i replaced both in my daughters caravan that she uses on her postal route and about 5 months down the road the right side came apart at the joint ,she probably hit a deep pothole while turning so we had to take it back to the store and they gave us a new one under warranty...anyways good luck so is it making a clunk when going straight or just turning, just a little confused on your question ?

warped rotors will make the brake pedal pulse and the steering wheel vibrate some. if its only doing it while you are slowing down but in gear not sure if it would be the rotors try to get it to do it and when it starts bump it out of gear and if it stops doing it then you know its not the rotors, other than that might be the clutch if you are slowing down to fast for the gear that you are in. i am sure you will get better advice from some of our more mech.readers on here..... good luck and ,make sure you repost when you get it fixed and let us know what it was , we get a lot of one time posters here or they never replied back after they get it fixed....

air tools are no substitute to torque wrench but i am sure that is not the problem, no mention on how many miles of the journey or if the trans fluid has ever been changed but considering your mention of fluid color i guess it hasn't been changed at all. did the trans ever clunk before the work? hey my 2011 and my newer 2014 both have clunked before and still do every so often when going from park to drive or reverse to drive not to othen ,but it happens to journeys once in a while never have i turned my wheels slowly and heard it clunk only when actually shifting the shifter. did you use a aftermarket cv joint or a mopar cv joint.good luck with what ever you find, i dont think you have any real problem that i would be worried about. you are probably just thinking that you are hearing it more now since you worked on it be sure to post back whatever you find out about your journey......

try putting old ones back in to see if you get the error again if not put one led light at a time to see if you get the error again....

check your front wheel bearings, my daughters caravan started making noises something like that. jack up one side at a time grab the wheel and see how it spins and try to move it side to side in all directions shouldn't have no movement except turning the wheel. they are easy to change out.good luck how many miles on the journey?

i usually do my own rotation on the tires myself but since i had the lifetime bal and rotation i thought what the hell....i will rotate them myself from now on and only balance them if i think they need it....