2late4u

always check your fuses first and carefully look it real good , as i just was working on my daughters van and checked the fuse real quick looked good then spent 1hr fooling around with the outlet, checked the fuse box again real quick yes it looked good spent alot of time messing around with the problem and decided to pull the fuse and it was slightly burned in half on the side of the fuse not the top where it normally burns thur.... also be carefull to put the fuse back in correctly one time my son pulled a fuse and put it back and the car ran like shit, i checked it all out couldnt fig out what was wrong so had a mech. check it out and after a 250.00 bill for compleate tuneup new wires and a few other little things it ended being when my son put the fuse back in 1 of 2 flat blades got put in the slot and the other one missed the slot and wasnt making connection so the fuel injectors were malfuntioing took the mech a long time to find this. so be real carefull when removing AND replacing your fuses

google them,

welcome to our forum, little bit warmer in alabama 60 degrees and sprinkling. brrrrrrrrrrr................

well i have just turned 60,000 miles on my 2011 and just put on some almost new tires, checked my rear pads and they look a little more than half wore out, front pads were changed out with new rotors at the dealership at about 27 k and the rotors were turned at 10k, plan on doing a front and back brake job this next spring,so far no other problems and still loving my journey.... p. s.had a rear back up cam addded to it about 2months ago every journey should come standard with them....

i agree take it to a body shop they will be able to help you out as most of the hinges are welded on now days with only a little amount of adj able to be made. did this happen from an accident or come this way from the dealer being a 2013 id take it back to the dealer as it is a dealer repair for sure.. let us know how you turn out........

well i just turned 60k miles on my kumos 17 inch tires and kept them rotated but the alingment got a little out of wack wearing the outside and inside of the tires so went down to my local tire store and got some 225-65-17 bridgestone dueller sport as tires out the the door for $340.oo mounted and balanced. oh did i mention they are used tires with 90 percent tread left on them. so far they are real quiet riding and smooth on the road hope they do good. have used this dealer for tires the last 10 years and have had no problems with their used tires they give a 30 day warrenty for any problem and have never had any problems with their tires so the cost savings are a real cost saver i used to never want to try used tires before but since tires have shot up in price, thought id try them have gotton over 4 sets over the years and no problems with them..

okay dodge care what do you have to say to this person.can you help him

had a similer problem with my 2001 dodge truck lights they would work on high beam but not on low bulbs okay ended up being the light switch something to do with the built in dimmer switch. found this out on google bought a new switch thur advance auto for $30. took 20 min to change out.. maybee somthing like that is your problem. 2001 to later dodges had this same problem along with the dash board tops cracking. try googling your problem with yr and vech. name for possible problems. good luck

just replaced the battery in my wifes remote a few days ago ,did mine last year buy at walmart cr2032 they come 2 to a pack about $5 or $6. do like windancer said. i used a kitchen pairing knife as a penny or dime didnt want to fit, just put the blade in the slit long wise and then twist the blade mine came apart real easy. just check how you take the old one out then put the new one in that easy.

had the front end aligment done yesterday tires were wearing on the inside and outside edge. have always run 36 -40 psi so wasnt low air pressure. mech said the rear alignment was out a little more than the front were. wasnt pulling to the right or left and have about 59 k on the kumo 17 inch tires and still have alot of tread left in the middle of the tires, but getting close to winter time down here in alabama so guess i need to let loose of $$ for some more tires...

just wondering how much did the extended warr. cost you???

turned 59 k on my 17 kumos and still have quite a bit of tread left in the center of the tire but on both edges of the tire they are wore down alot, it is a sign of running them with low air pressure which i dont always run 36 to 40 air pressure, so off i go to the alignment shop, i have always used for the last 20 yrs. and he told me the rear alignment was out a little more than the fronts were. so always keep a close eye on your tires as the car was not pulling to either side. good thing is i have got great mileage out of these tires, of course i rotated them every 10k. so not to upset i let them go so far. problem is they still look like they have about 10 k left on them but deep down i know i need to get new ones before the snow flies down here in north alabama. and also just had to replace the battery in my wifes remote, had to have mine changed last yr, these new remotes sure do eat up the batteries as my 2001 dodge truck is still going strong on the factory battery. also was thnking about changing out the engine battery in the near future as since it is in such a hard place to get to dont think i want to wait for it to go bad at a future date that would be really inconvenent. most of my mopar batteries have always seem to go bad after about 3 years.. how long have you all went before changing your batteries out?

dought chrysler will do anything for a 2009 with brake problems as they can be damaged thur different conditions beyond their control. i would suggest changing out your pads for wagner thermo-quite and also use wagner rotors as they come with a lifetime warrenty against warping.i buy mine thur advance auto alot cheaper than going to the dealer and watch the u tube videios on changing the pads and rotors very easy and just a few tools needed. parts should be less than 58 for the pads and about 50 for each rotor. i also use retailmenot.com for coupon codes thur advance auto ,would knock off about 60 off the total cost. good luck.. also hard braking and hitting chuck holes filled with water will damage your rotors faster than you think...... P.S. only saying that about hard braking is because my daughter drives a dodge minn-van for her rural carrier job for the post office and they have to fix thier own cars and she goes thur a set of pads about every 5-7 thousand miles and i do her brakes for her so the hard braking really wears them down fast.....so to say the least i do alot of brake jobs each year and she is only part time as of now,she has been doing this for 4 yrs now and hopes to make full time in about 2-3 yrs from now..............

no prob with mine going on 58k miles so far

better have it checked , or your tiers will prob be wore down soon. not normal.........

dealer or junk yard maybee e bay

i would have the trans fuild changed and nothing else unless you are having problems, just turned 58k miles on my 2011 and i had the trans fuild done ( i believe in changing trans fuilds) still have my orignal kumo tires with great tread on them. 3yr 36k for bumper to bumper 5yr 100k on engine and power train ps my fuild change was not a flush but a reg fuild and filter change ...know i did it early but believe in doing not

found a product that really works great and thought id pass it on. my wife has been being bothered with a skin problem and is going to a dr. about it and it has spread to her bottom of her foot and it causes extreamly dry patches of skin that forms above the new skin and looks terrible and the dermtolgist says to keep it lubed with lotion. well we tried most all lotions and 1 day i am in the plumbing store and see a small round green container about the size of a hockey puck called( O'Keeffes working hands) hand cream and i ask the owner about it and he swears that every one that has tried it loves it, for $6.99 i say what the hell and man does it work great it has really helped my wifes foot( it hasent stopped her problem, but we are still going to the dr about) but it has slowed down the itching and flakeing of the dying skin. i have always had a problem with 1 of my heels cracking open and i started using it and man it has really helped it after just a few days. this stuff works so good just thought id pass on the info as so many products claim releaf but doesnt work. it is sold at lowes and auto zone and alot of different places and you can order it over the internet and they have a cream just for feet, but havent tried it as you have to get it thur the internet and the hand cream works great so we havent bothered with it.

well ive got 58k on my 17 kumos and keep telling my wife that i want to get new tires before winter but when i get ready to do it i look at my tires and they still look good and above the tread wear ridges. i know alot of readers have had bad luck with their kumos but ive kept mine rotated and havent had any problems to complain about. of course we dont get alot of snow in al just a few storms but do seem to get alot of ice.

i would also like to hear from adudinsk also. as important it is to warn others about bad venders it is also good to give a report back about your complaint and how it was taken care of. i thought he would have commented after reading toms post. well he might be on vacation..

have had problems in past vans with noise and whines from power steering and started using lucas power steering oil and it has always fixed the problem it is really great oil seems thick as hell but but works. i would use a turkey baster( the kind with a bulb so you can suck up liquid) to remove as much power steering fuild and then just refill to proper level. cost about $7-9 a bottle at auto store or wally mart. as far as checking your engine mounts have someone sit in car with car in gear and foot on the brake real hard with the hood open and you stand by the side of car and have them rev the engine, if the engine raises up a couple of inches then you have some bad mounts. ps on one of the vans the dealer was telling me it was the power steering arm unit (not the pump) that was making the noise and it would cost about $3 - $400 to replace the unit and i was googling it and it was suggested to try lucas oil and it did fix the noise and problem for as long as i owned the van and was sold to my daughters aunt and she still has the van 4 yrs now and still no problems with the steering unit worth the try

after hearing about the problems the other member had why would you order from this vender . as they were trying to sell him something he didnt order and now the same thing has happened to you.... WARNING,WARNING do not buy anything from this vender period......

why black out your lic plate in the firstpic and not in the 3rd pic ?

was out looking at my journey and looks like only about one half inch space between the wheel weights that are guled on and the caliper and i have 17 inch rims. would be afraid the bigger rotor and bigger caliper might hit the weights and if you lived up north with the ice build ups you might have an even bigger problems. still thinking about it tho...

also , have never had to use 2 wrenches to remove calper bolts. somthing new here?