2late4u

harbor freight would be the cheapest place for the tool

the cube worked on my 2014 with no problems

or the belt tensioner and or idler pulley as well, have it checked out for the noise problem first try using a eng stethoscope/long screwdriver against different engine parts that might be making the noise...after you find the problem, that should let your battery charged back up unless the new alternator is not working properly,,even new parts can be bad

welcome to the group

your plugs should be changed every 30 k ,iles also only use OEM plugs they are cheap and easy to replace as far as the overheating exactly what happened how hot did it get? did you lose any coolant? probally you just need to replace the thermostat unit on your journey I believe there are 2 of them in the plastic unit as I have the 3.6 and it is a different type that is used instead of the 2.4 only use Mopar coolant when adding to your cooling system...good luck

hard to say over the internet, have a local garage check it out if you are not so inclined to check it out yourself,very well could be a cracked thermostat housing kind of common on the 2,4 make sure you replace the whole unit and use the CORRECT MOPAR COOLANT don't use the advertised one coolant for all vehicles it cost more but it is very important not to mix them

Well you will get what you pay for when buying cheap brake parts.....BUYING quality parts for all four wheels ( 4 rotors and 2 sets of pads) WILL run over $200 even if you are doing it yourself

since the abs light is off it,shouldn't be the abs uni,t but that unit is considered a priority software code and can only be diagnosed with the higher quality scanners, I just had my abs unit replaced thur the dealership with a long backorder wait on the unit but mine had the c2200-40 code sometimes the dealership which is more expensive can come out cheaper and quicker than just throwing parts at the journey..good luck and please report back on what you find to be the problem and the fix for others

I don't trust ebay due to counterfeit parts

I bought my last rotors on Amazon they were name brand rotors,I didn't notice but you can buy the heavy duty/police rotors for just a few dollars more I would have got them,,cheaper than your local part stores as well... never have used slotted and or drilled rotors have heard they can cause a noise issue check out you tube for more info on slotted ,drilled rotors,,,and in use akebono brake pads off amazon as well they are the oem manufactures brake pads they use

buy OEM,you get what you pay for

😃Welcome to the group,Please cruise thur the forum poatings for a lot of info

i still do my own oil changes and brake jobs, just to easy to let some kid at the dealership that they hire for the gopher jobs to screw up

there is a setting in my 2014 in the info section, i believe it is around 20 seconds or a bit more

they put the ABS in an awkward position on the passenger side by the firewall, I had been tinkering with the idea of finding one at a junk yard but to old to try to work ion that position as well,most vehicles its toward the front of the engine bay..oh well ,,,,yes you have your hands full with all the vehicles you are taking care of ,,I am so GLAD that the post office my daughter works out of, about 2 yrs ago they started providing them with vehicles to use instead of them providing their own, of course she took a hit on her paycheck but it sure took a load off my shoulders trying to keep up with her repairs...LOL

I checked on the internet and the ABS module runs around $428 if in stock,belt tensioner around $313 Mopar,and crankshaft seal $20 and there belt was $28 from the dealership parts office with my discount of 25% off if they gave it to me..so around 789 in parts plus tax he said $ 1300 total minus my $100 ded so around $411 for labor witch seems cheap on the labor cost but since I don't know actually cost of the parts and what is involved with the time to install all this, but at $150 hr labor charge that would be about 2.5 hr in labor.... that belt tensioner seemed high but that is a Mopar price of Belt Tensioner - Mopar (5184617AD) 2011-2024 Mopar - 5184617ad 5.0 star rating1 Review MSRP:$468.00 Discount:$159.42 (34.1% off) Sale Price:$308.58 Anti-Lock Brake System Module - Mopar (68194693AF) 2012-2017 Dodge Journey - 68194693af MSRP:$531.00 Discount:$182.30 (34.3% off) Sale Price:$348.70 found the ABS module a bit cheaper ( $100 less ) at Moparfactoryparts.com

LOL a stripped nut will not fall off a stud

IF the nut is stripped than the lug is bad as well, IF the nut is just rounded off then the lug MIGHT still be good ,it all depends on what it is as his description of the nut says its stripped...and to be honest replacing a bad lug is not that hard but getting the nut off it is the main problem without destroying the rim... I replaced 40 of them on my grandsons Toyota G R 86 only took us around 60 minutes to take them out and put in the new stronger ones

Weii I got my journey out of the dealership and only cost me $131. 100 for the ded and $28 plus tax for the new serpentine belt,, they didn't give me a breakdown of the cost but the replaced the crankshaft seal,the belt adjuster tensioner,and also the ABS module did have to wait an extra day he said for the corporate approval of the charges since the total cost came to $1300 and anything over $1000 they have to get their approval which is weird as they had all ready done all the work which doesn't sound right but what the heck...so I am feeling I am ahead on the cost of the warranty cost by about 5-700 I had oil sending unit go bad that was around 500 that included a car rental since I was out of town plus a rear camera inop that was around 300 and oil cooler replaced around 700-1000 I would assume and now 1300 on the abs and other stuff,,,the crankshaft seal is in a really cramped spot guess they went thur the wheel well along with the belt tensioner and new belt also the ABS unit is right there on that side as well...I am just happy not to have the lights on and the cruise control working, I asked if I could have the old ABS unit to tear apart but he said they had to keep it but then asked me why, and I said I had read up on most of the failures on these units were due to the small surface mount electrical parts partial or not being soldered completely, and I do know that could very well be true, as I worked at the Chrysler electronic plant in Huntsville Al and they sometimes would kick out on the testers if some of the parts were not soldered correctly, we never made the ABS units but did most of the the other electronic parts

that is a pain in the ass,it goes away right away, but I have seen other systems that don't give a warning

IF you have to drill start with a small drill bit and then work your way up, and spend the money and get the good drill bits as well.............if the nut is already stripped or lug,, drilling will be your only way

100.00 62.137 mph,,,wow that is some strict speed limits

so did you replace the radiator and the ac condenser? 5reble9 I assume was talking about replacing just the rad so yes there would be a lot bigger cost if replacing both or disconnecting the condenser as well...Great you got it done and hope you get back on the road so take care....P.S. what did you ever find to be your problem in your org post about the brake pedal going all the way to the floor?

thoes are the ones that bought with the lifetime when dodge was going broke I think it was in 2009 and also they haven't had it serviced every so often and checked out at certain mileage and yrs time,,, back 2 yrs ago dodge did send me a letter wanting me to buy a new vehicle and they would give me 2 k down on it if I would sell back my warranty I actually sent the email back saying make it 12k and maybe but never heard back from them..also I have had all my service work done at the dealership except for brakes and oil changes

check out Amazon for the center console replacement cover, I bought one for my journey and it looked great almost OEM look