2late4u

agree with 5rebel9 on this,

was thinking that as well, dang thing is in an odd place to get to, will have check it out and see if i can get the connector off,,,also was watching the youtube videos on bleeding the system and to do a compleat bleeding with abs you need and high end scanner to operate the valves in the abs to get any thing that might be there to flush out,,,as the brake lines have never been opened or any work on them the chance of air or corrosion from old fluid is slim... guess ill check out you tube to see how the connector is latched to the pump..... too old and fat to work on all this new stuff..>>LOL

well my abs module is still on backorder at the dealership, But had to drive over to the Dr office in the big city of Huntsville and of course everyone drives 90 mph and tailgates everyone ,so us normal drivers that leave 5-6 car lengths behind the car in front are always getting cut off for leaving to much room..>LOL anyways all of a sudden everyone hits their brakes and the driver in the next lane sees all the room that i have in my lane and he cuts over and then of course has to hit his brakes causing me to lock up my brakes just to avoid an accident and thank goodness everyone avoids an accident, but after that my abs lights and brake lights turn off on the dash and i check and my cruise control is working again, so after the Dr visit the abs lights come back on again going down the road and then after a short bit they go off, then had to stop at another place for a bit and then start the drive home again and yepo the abs light comes on again and then after a bit it goes off till i get home,,, Just wondering so i check the connector on the abs module and everything looks tight and then i got to wondering if when i locked the brakes up if the brake fluid caused the abs to start working again intermittent, has got me thinking maybe to try to bleed all the brake lines to see if that might help with the bad abs module being intermittent, of course it also could be a connector problem as well, but just weird it started to work part time after having to hit the brakes so hard..... dealership said the module has an internal fault code so that is why they have it on backorder and also i have the max warranty as well so thats why i dont want to replace it for a aftermarket or parts yard part... what are your opinions on this???????

mine says it was an internal failure according to the code number

i also have been waiting for the abs module from the dealership to get back in stock, no luck yet has been 0on backorder for 6-7 months so far , other than the dash lights havent had anything i miss except the cruise control, also mine is to be repaired under warranty so that is the main reason wanting to wait on the dealership.... what recall is their on the cat converter, havent heard of that one????

probally your tpim or corrosion underneath it

call your local dodge dealership they will know for sure

B.S. You need to find a new dealership,,,,,,there is no reason they cant get you in within 2 weeks max, and you are almost at the req time to change the trans fluid... i had mine changed at 60 k and then again at 100 k along with the coolant service and plugs as well,,,yes kind of pricey but well worth it............ preventive maintenance will help you get longer and better life out of your journey

have you-tried downloading the free internet manual for his yr journey,or poss go buy the local dodge dealership for some free help

well you are getting close to the 100 k trans service, i would let the dealership do the service and also tell them about whats happening as well,,, be aware changing the fluid and filter runs kind of high around 250-350 depending on your dealership, i would stay away from the jiffy lubes and the others quick change places on their trans service they offer

as mentioned before,, go or call your local dealership to get the correct info and advise you are seeking, they do have a performance parts that they use on the R.T. models from what i have read...also aftermarket parts are not often the same as OEM parts in quality and ride quality...

have your vin # handy as well

warped rotors can cause some of that shaking,wheel bearing, tie rod gone bad, and or lower or upper bushings as well..put it up on a jack side your jack stand under the frame and then try to wiggle the tire left to right, and then your hands top of the tire and other the bottom of the tire and see if there is play that way as well. plenty of youtube videos on how to check the tie rods and control arm upper and lower bushings,,, could also be a wheel bearing gone bad...good luck also could be your lug nuts on tight as well

you dont have to disconnect at the battery just use the upper power jump spots located on the drivers side

Welcome to the group

8. Faulty receiver module Dodge Journey has a remote keyless system receiver that receives radio frequency signals from the key fob. If none of your key fobs work, and and you can’t reprogram the keys, it is possible the receiver module has developed a fault. You may have to perform further diagnostics to identify the faulty. The keyless entry antenna could be damaged, or the module is just not communicating with other modules on the vehicle. In these cases an OBDII scan tool can be used to verify if the commands are being transmitted and acted on by the security module................................... Reset the system If the key fob is not working due to a glitch in the keyless entry system, it may be possible to restore the functionality by resetting the keyless entry system in your Journey. There isn’t any button or option to reset the keyless entry system in Journey, but you can reboot all the on-board computers by disconnecting the 12 volt battery for a few minutes. Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery first, then from the positive terminal. With the battery disconnected, press the horn button a few times and turn on the headlights to drain out all the residual electricity from the system. After about 15 minutes, reconnect the battery in reverse order: positive cable first, then negative cable.

just go to your local part store and tell them what you want to do, that way you get all the right parts ,dealership is more expensive but they will use your vin # and get you all the right parts which usually are a better quality than the part stores,,,i would advise to replace it all and not cheap out on just the shaft bearing...not really hard but something you really want to have to redo..dont forget the torque specs as well for the axle nut...plus watch a bunch of youtube videos....P.S. also in his pictures of his trans axle where it was wet ,the trans seal was also probally damaged as it shouldn't have been wet or greasy there

as most one time posters they never reported back on their solution to the problem, i would assume their problem would be different then yours. have you checked out youtube for any solutions?sounds like your journey is not rec the signals from your fobs,,,did you put in new batteries or just checked them for their strength i would replace them first before doing anything else. please report back on whatever you find to be the problem for others

havent heard anyone mention this happening on here,, welcome to the group

good luck just wondering what the cost of supplies are and also the cost of the window from the auto supply yard,, it has been my experience the cost is more than its worth

i also just paid the dodge dealership to do mine, as i bought the extended warranty and didnt want no reason for them to turn down an repair

rear struts are hard/time consuming to change on journeys, that said it depends of how they have been driven whether the struts go bad,but we really havent heard to much about bad struts, of course all the fluids should be serviced at least by the owners manual time/mileage intervals but it is a good idea to be proactive on doing it sooner than later,,,you can download the owners manual off the internet for free just google it,, also youtube is great for info on how to do it.also the forum tab is a great place to get info on your journey spend some time cruising thur it....also is your extended warranty thur dodge/mopar or a third party company????

100 k is the service point on the transmission ( i had mine changed at 60k and then again at 100k ) as mentioned only use mopar fluid and it takes a certain amount depending on the temp as such ,more info on that can be found on youtube, also this trans does have a learning schedule on how you drive BUT most journey owners myself included have experienced this hard sift or clunk from time to time and shouldn't be any real concern for you,as far as the rear shutter i dont know about it as i only have fwd ,but as you mentioned there are a lot more parts related to awd the flex transfer towards the rear has been mentioned quite a bit on here for it going bad...good luck and use that warranty as soon as you can and save ALL your paperwork that you give them and what they give you ,please report back on what you find to be your problem as well

i wonder if the coolant temp sensor is going bad and or causing the fans not to turn on at the right time, strange it ran fine for 2 weeks and then happened again.

to be honest i had in the past always over torque the lug nuts since i didnt have a torque wrench, so finally broke down and bought one and always use it to do the lugs at 100 and have never had a problem since removing the nuts go to harbor freight or your local part store and pick one what,,,,, also NEVER use a ratchet and a cheater pipe,, i have always bought the 19 mm socket and a 24 inch breaker bar and that is more than you need to remove the lug nuts,,,so easy as well harbor freight for both of thoes as well .... LOL ,,,,i do not work or sponsored by harbor freight as well