2late4u

yes that is a good price, also all dodge dealerships charge different labor rates for the same parts and labor so it is usually a good idea to check around if price is real important to you, but a cheap price with bad attitudes from the dealership can make a difference in who you use...also at 100k you also are due to change the plugs and at 120 the coolant as well i just bit the bullet and had all of them done at one time and my dealership cut me a small discount for doing them all at one time......

engine size and mileage info would help?

possibile your antenna connection might be loose at the radio , there is a noise suppressor you can buy for such problem if it is and interference problem from the engine,BUT this should not be necessary as you have a problem somewhere and should be checked out either thur the dealership or maybe a local car radio shop which should be cheaper,,when you find the problem please report back for others that might come up with this problem

i have replaced mine as well BUT because the tire shop idiots ruined most of them in one visit in which i posted on here, the manager replaced them at half cost on their behalf..but i also had replaced them on my daughters mail vehicle as well as they were deforming due to all the tire changes and repairs on her van, that said she has just received her post office vehicles so Hooray i dont have to do anymore repairs on it.......only tools i carry for my tires is a 24 inch breaker bar from harbor freight and a 19 mm socket and at home i have a 18 inch torque wrench bar for the wheels 90-100 lbs is not that hard to do without over torquing there nuts as you would think......P.S. using a impact gun is what will deform the 2 pc lugs the most as most tire place sockets are made one side 19mm and the other side 19.5 and if the is the wrong side or try to torqe the lugs with a impact gun IT will deform the lugs real quick

more likely the wires going thur the rubber boot in the drivers door are shorted or broken ,very common problem in journeys as well the lift back hatch,,,,check the door first before spending $$$ on a tipm repair

thanks for replying back on what you found,strange a shorted sensor would make the engine lose or jerk while driving

i have the 3.6 but had to replace my thermostat with around 140 k on it, and ya i kept a real close eye on it as well, i used an after market thermostat instead of OEM and before the change i usually ran around 195 at normal and around 112 at high temp.NOW it usually runs around 200 or so and have seen it while it was hot hot running as high as 212-215 and then drop back down to 205 then fluctuate back and forth, also used the correct mopar antifreeze required. if your not happy i believe the actual thermostat can be removed from the housing and a slightly lower spring unit put back in, also you could also add a extra cooler to the system. hopefully some one that has the 2.4 can post some of their readings for you, but some of your readings do sound a bit high. good luck and welcome to the group

my daughter had the 2.4 engine in her mail jeep and i just changed her plugs every 30 k , and about the 3rd time i bought the plugs off amazon the company was out of the reg plug but sent me the iridium plug that was supposed to be better and last longer,,,guess what less than 2 weeks later i was pulling them out and got the normal oem copper plug from the local auto store and she didnt have any more problems, also there is a pcv valve that can go bad and is super easy to change out,,,also dont overlook the air filter....

the 2.4 plugs need to be changed every 24k-30k,only use the ngk OEM copper plugs for best results,start with them if you havent done this cheap and easy...also how many miles?

which engine, what mileage, have it checked to see if any codes have been stored.

welcome to the group and LOL no there isn't a thread on this question, sounds like you know what your doing way over my head,and i hope you find a fix to this problem maybe John will pipe in sooner or later ,,,good luck on your solution and also please let us know how it all turns out....

check your grounds at the starter , might have to have a garage take a look at it?

just click the long rectangle box under the post and type in it,then click the submit reply

agree with 5rebel9 on this,

was thinking that as well, dang thing is in an odd place to get to, will have check it out and see if i can get the connector off,,,also was watching the youtube videos on bleeding the system and to do a compleat bleeding with abs you need and high end scanner to operate the valves in the abs to get any thing that might be there to flush out,,,as the brake lines have never been opened or any work on them the chance of air or corrosion from old fluid is slim... guess ill check out you tube to see how the connector is latched to the pump..... too old and fat to work on all this new stuff..>>LOL

well my abs module is still on backorder at the dealership, But had to drive over to the Dr office in the big city of Huntsville and of course everyone drives 90 mph and tailgates everyone ,so us normal drivers that leave 5-6 car lengths behind the car in front are always getting cut off for leaving to much room..>LOL anyways all of a sudden everyone hits their brakes and the driver in the next lane sees all the room that i have in my lane and he cuts over and then of course has to hit his brakes causing me to lock up my brakes just to avoid an accident and thank goodness everyone avoids an accident, but after that my abs lights and brake lights turn off on the dash and i check and my cruise control is working again, so after the Dr visit the abs lights come back on again going down the road and then after a short bit they go off, then had to stop at another place for a bit and then start the drive home again and yepo the abs light comes on again and then after a bit it goes off till i get home,,, Just wondering so i check the connector on the abs module and everything looks tight and then i got to wondering if when i locked the brakes up if the brake fluid caused the abs to start working again intermittent, has got me thinking maybe to try to bleed all the brake lines to see if that might help with the bad abs module being intermittent, of course it also could be a connector problem as well, but just weird it started to work part time after having to hit the brakes so hard..... dealership said the module has an internal fault code so that is why they have it on backorder and also i have the max warranty as well so thats why i dont want to replace it for a aftermarket or parts yard part... what are your opinions on this???????

mine says it was an internal failure according to the code number

i also have been waiting for the abs module from the dealership to get back in stock, no luck yet has been 0on backorder for 6-7 months so far , other than the dash lights havent had anything i miss except the cruise control, also mine is to be repaired under warranty so that is the main reason wanting to wait on the dealership.... what recall is their on the cat converter, havent heard of that one????

probally your tpim or corrosion underneath it

call your local dodge dealership they will know for sure

B.S. You need to find a new dealership,,,,,,there is no reason they cant get you in within 2 weeks max, and you are almost at the req time to change the trans fluid... i had mine changed at 60 k and then again at 100 k along with the coolant service and plugs as well,,,yes kind of pricey but well worth it............ preventive maintenance will help you get longer and better life out of your journey

have you-tried downloading the free internet manual for his yr journey,or poss go buy the local dodge dealership for some free help

well you are getting close to the 100 k trans service, i would let the dealership do the service and also tell them about whats happening as well,,, be aware changing the fluid and filter runs kind of high around 250-350 depending on your dealership, i would stay away from the jiffy lubes and the others quick change places on their trans service they offer

as mentioned before,, go or call your local dealership to get the correct info and advise you are seeking, they do have a performance parts that they use on the R.T. models from what i have read...also aftermarket parts are not often the same as OEM parts in quality and ride quality...

have your vin # handy as well