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replace the engine and cabin air filter yourself and only spen around 25 for both of them,,,youtube will show you on both how easy it is, brakes and rotors can wait till you notice them pulsating when you press on the brake pedal,replacing the trans fluid will cost around 350 at a dealership , and i would have the tapping noise of the rocker arms taken care of right away,,,this is off a jeep site but same engine also this also is out of your age and miles but i would check with your dodge dealership to be sure they might still cover it for you......... Detroit – Good news for 2011-2013 Jeep JK Wrangler owners plagued by the left-cylinder head cracking issue. Chrysler Group has extended the 5-year/100,000 mile warranty out to 10-years/150,000 miles on the left-cylinder head for customers who purchased a segment of the 2011-13 vehicles with 3.6-liter V-6 Pentastar engines. In a small percentage of these engines, the left cylinder heads have failed due to excessive wear. Chrysler will extend its 5-year / 100,000 mile engine warranty to 10 year/150,000 miles. All other engine components will still be limited to the automaker’s 5-year/100,000-mile powertrain warranty. According to Chrysler, around the time of a 2012 design change, approximately 7,500 engines were susceptible to the cylinder head failure. Chysler’s spokesperson would not say whether the estimated affected engine count still holds true however Head of Quality, Doug Betts, said that the cylinder head problem has been found in an estimated 1/2 of 1 percent of Pentastar equipped vehicles. In 2012 Chrysler was made aware of the problem soon after customers began filing complaints of a “ticking sound” and other related issues including an illuminated check engine light. Chrysler’s months-long investigation of the issue tracked the problem down to what they refer to as a combination of contributing factors including poor-quality fuel and specific driving conditions that resulted in excessive wear on the left cylinder head of the affected engines. Chrysler said in a written statement about the extended warranty, “A small percentage of these 2011-2013 model year engines may be susceptible to an engine misfire which is caused by a combination of rarely occurring factors, including drive cycle and fuel quality.” “The issue does not disable the engine. Dealers will replace the left cylinder head with a new part with a minor design modification.” According to Chrysler, a cylinder head design modification was made in August of 2012. Since the design change the company says they have not had any reports of the issue happening in 3.6-liter V-6 Pentastar engines manufactured after that time. See your dealer for details on the warranty extension.

so are you saying as soon as you start it the fan kicks on or after it reaches operating temp of 195-205 after it warms up to those temps and then just a bit more yes the fan should kick on but not till its gets up to the 205-215 range ..... also quit looking at the dash marks and go by the actual temp readings , as we are not sure what you are looking at....and No the two different problems are not related, i hope the dealership is covering the cost of replacing the oil sensor as that can be a high dollar repair around 400-500 due to its inability to reach it the easy way,,,but there are videos on the internet showing if you have the right tools and knowledge and can work on it without actually seeing it, it's not to of bad of a reair ,of course the dealerships goes by the book and that is the expensive way of course

clean off your oil dipstick and insert it into the trans fill hole to see the level and color of your trans fluid ( should be pink or red if dark or burnt looking it will be brownish looking), youtube can give you the measurements on how to mark the oil dipstick to check the trans fluid level, but yes it sounds like the trans is slipping, you are 50 k over the recommended trans service and probally the same on the sparkplugs ( 100k) which could be part of your problem along with the coolant serace change (120 k) as well

there are 3 blend doors left,right, center which they say is hard to get to, would rec taking it to a good ac place to get it fixed quick

sounds more like your trans is slipping to me, my old truck as long as i drove it real easy it would shift good, but if i got into it hard it wouldn't shift into 4 till i let up,,,also which eng do you have sounds like the 2.4....better rent you a car for the trip till you have it checked out..dealership would only cost you 100-150 for the dig to see what they said is wrong you have already spent that much with the part shotgun approach plus how many miles on it? you might still have the powertrain warranty left 5 yrs 60 k i believe

i think the op is asking about a key fob, if so yes the key and or fob needs to be programed to your journey but if you're talking about the actual key lock itself then no

before throwing $$$ better have it checked out to see if that is the problem first,kind of expensive. have heard some readers say the power distribution box has caused them problems with corrosion under there where the connectors are,good luck most dodge dealerships charge around 100 to 150 to check something like this out they would be the best place to have it checked but also probally the most expensive as well.........Good luck

i have since switched to Cover all made by superior products, kind of expensive in the aerosol can i seen it was also alav in a gallon jug which i bought from orillies and then also use a applicator pads off amazon(Glearo Tire Dressing Applicator, 2 Pack Tire Shine Applicator Dressing Pad - Perfect for Tire Detailing, Durable & Reusable Foam, Large Hex Grip Design for No Slip No Mess & Easy Use) and they hold up great and when thur i replaced the pad into a baggie to keep it clean and from drying out, i also use this stuff on my side door inside panels as well it is fantastic and even holds up thur several rains i still use the 303 Aerospace Protectant on the dash and seats

Also welcome to the group,,,, lots of great info here check out the different forum headings for more info

also when your driving check the different readouts on your other gages to see where they read as well for future info also the coolant gage is showing green and that is good if it gets to high it goes yellow from what i have been told have never seen mine turn yellow

does the rad fan click on when you turn your ac on it should no matter what the temperature is i just replaced my thermostat at around 125 k ,also i had already had the coolant serviced at 97 k at the dealership when i had my plugs changed and transmission serviced as well,,,yes it was a large bill but i have the extended warranty so its on file at the dealership that i had it done,,,anyways after putting in the new thermostat which ids so simple on the 3.6 a grade school kid can do it and then bleed the air out as well sooo easy,i watched the gage and the fan will click on somewhere around 208 and will get up to 212-215 at the most and then always goes back down to 200,,,but as i said it normally runs 200-210 at the most...change your t sat, USE the correct coolant not what the auto store says works get the mopar yes it is a lot more $$$ then bleed the system ( check out youtube for videos on how to replace and bleed the system) after changing it out and then keep a close eye on it to see what happens

yrs ago at around 70 k i ordered front and rear pads for my 2014 well when i went to replace them they didnt even look half wore out ( i should have stopped there) but thought well go ahead and replace them with the Wager thermoquiet pads i had bought, and as always i saved the old pads just in case as my father always said to do in case of a problem, well fast forward to around 120 k i wasnt happy with my brakes throwing so must dust and such so was going to replace them again and t i was surprised on how worn the Wagners were wore down, so i removed the rotors and had them turned and they were just about at the point of not being able to turn them according to the shop but they turned out okay, and i just replaced the front pads with my old OEM pads that i had saved, Man a lot less dust and better braking as well.... WAGNER pads sure have went down hill as they use to be the gold standards, i only use Akabano pads now on my daughter's rural mail vehicle as they are the ones that make the OEM pads as well and buying them off amazon is a GREAT deal compared to the local part stores.

locosite that is a great idea as to the keyhole camera hooked up to a dash cam or something else to record,,,better get a patent on that idea LOL but it is a great place and idea..... as you mentioned that it doesn't work that great and i do agree with you on that but i keep replacing it when it rots out as i dont want to accidentally use it and scratch the window,and also dont want to be the one with the rubber edge drooping down like a limp _ _ _ _, well you know what i am referring to, but honestly i am to lazy to go thur the trouble of having to remove the inner panel and motor and other things as well, but it does look a bit better as well with it removed

are you talking about the charger port not testing good or the flashlight itself not test good either way check for the fuse to see if its blown, and also check the flashlight bulb as well to see if its good or any power getting to it, if all else fails buy a replacement after all its over 12 yrs old , e bay or oem light replacement ,,,,,,or go to harbor freight and buy a led one that will be better this is the one i have and it is great also it rechargeable as well.... BRAUN 390 Lumen Magnetic Slim Bar Folding Work Light (8260) $2999 .

i was wondering if thats why the oil coolers on the journeys going bad from the seals and not cracked housings i heard the coolant turns corrosive and eats away at the seals on the fords engine

WTF are you complaining about....LOL

not a journey but my neighbor just had her 2015 ford explorer water pump go bad and the 2011-2018 they put the water pump inside the engine with the timing chains so when it starts leaking the coolant goes straight into the engine and could damage the engine real quick, it's in the repair shop at the dealership $2500 for the water pump fix they are waiting to see if any engine damage? and everyone complains about the dodge journey

check the part yards like lkq if you can't buy an oem part have you checked with the dealership parts center?

would try to paint it white, myself

2 post wonder ,guess we will never know

op said it was coolant, but i believe it is the ac hose draining water and whoever did this out the clamp on there so it wouldn't get pushed back up thru the hole

WOW that looks like big puddles of fuel, hope it is what you are hoping for from the previous owner, but that looks like a big leak somewhere, keep an eye on the rear floor above the fuel tank as there could be a pressure leak from the fuel pump spraying upwards, my granddaughter had an old caravan and the top of the fuel pump was right under the floor and they were known to develop small cracks and leak/spray fuel from the plastic nipple that came out of the fuel tank on the way to the engine

First welcome to the group,,,,, we dont diesel in the states but i would be having the fuel lines checked from the rear to the front for leaks and also the fuel rails on top of the motor as well that said also check to see if fuel is noted on the front firewall, that said i did have an old truck around 20 yrs ago i was getting a gas smell inside the cab and it ended up being a return vapor air line going back to the tank that they ran thur the inside of the cab ,it had rusted out. it was located right under the step rail along side of the seat, i dont think you will find that to be the cause but you never know,,,,good luck and also what is the avg mpg on your journey also when you find out what the problem is please report back for any others that might have them happen to them

go to forums click on Brake, Chassis & Suspension and then click on green pin for torque specs

great fix,there is always a workaround to save $$$