2late4u

i would replace the plugs first before doing anything else as bad plugs can cause an erratic driving pattern ,as such thinking of you having trans problems or water in gas as well,,do the simple things first that also cost the least

first i would siphon the gas out of your tank since you SAY the local gas station\ had a breach of their tanks then refill half a tank and then add some dry gas ( product helps remove water from the tank)

also fuel filter is in the tank non serviceable on most new cars not sure if you have one on a 2009 that you can change as mentioned i would add a couple of cans of dry gas to your tank and then change your plugs as well and might as well check your air filter

first off to check / add trans fluid is to look towards the right front of the eng between the rad and engine you will see a tube with a cap on it that is your transmission fluid filler, check youtube for the video on how to mark your oil dipstick so you can check your trans fluid level..i marked mine with a small file on the edge of the stick,,,,also if needing trans fluid make sure you use the correct fluid

so what are your codes showing since you have the check engine light on? also have you done the 100k transmission service?looks like you have around 140 k as of now, sounds like a trip to the transmission shop might be in order,good luck and report back on what you find out to be your problem

journeys like a strong battery, when they get low the electronics go crazy,,,,have someone give you a jump or just replace the battery look on youtube for info on how to do it or pay your local garage to replace it

dealership or scrap yards like lkq

mine (2014)would sometimes show up upside down but then would revert to normal view and then started not working and then restart working again it i did that for about 6-7 months before it finally went out for good, i took it in as i had an extended warranty with a 100 ded they said it was the actually camera lens in the lift gate,,,, i wonder if it was just a loose wire or connection, who knows good luck on finding out what the problem is,,,just wondering did they cover the cost of replacing the radio?

welcome to the group.nice looking journey

$40 plus tax as of now

update after putting the stant gas cap on, they said it would take a couple of days for the gas cap light to go off, i did take a small piece of real fine emery paper and cleaned around the steel tank nozzle lip and then used a bit of silicone grease around the o ring gasket early today and after a couple short trips the light has went off,,,glad for that

great that you got drain on your trans pan,as most dont,,one thing i use to do yrs ago, the daughter had not done her trans service on her postal caravan so instead of dropping the pan and changing most of the fluid out (which can cause the trans to start acting up from what i have read) i would every so often use a suction tube down the trans filler tube and suck out about a quart or whatever amount i could get out, then i would add back the same amount of fresh fluid, it took several times but the fluid began to look red again and she never had no problems with the trans slipping or anything by doing it slowly......would be a great way to do this to our trans since we have no dip stick and is a simple way of keeping the fluid fresher between having a trans service done

well started my 2014 crossroad 3.6 with 129k and the gas cap light comes on, so jumped out and clicked it a few clicks and then restarted the engine, i thought it was gone for about 10 seconds and then it comes back on, about 3/4 tank of gas as well, so I cleaned the cap inside and around the rubber O ring then cleaned the gas tank neck connection real good, restarted the eng and then the light comes back on, so i put some silicone grease thats is for use with rubber products and nope still comes back on , so i run down to O'reillys part store and pick up a new gas cap (stant) they said put it on and drive it for a few days to reset the light ( they said if it doesn't work you can return the cap and get your money back),,, well had high hopes but the light still comes back on have turned the car off and back on about ten times so far still on, so I will drive it for a day or so going on a little trip on tues so can't get in the dealership before then,,,any other ideas? not good with meters for checking current voltage,, also i live in alabama so underside of the journey is rust free and watched some videos on you tube about broken wires, I dont think i have the smarts for chasing something like that down tho...ANY other thoughts on what to check before i put it into the shop in the next 2 weeks i do have the max unlimited warranty from mopar but my luck it wont cover this and also the $100 ded......LOL

i would assume you will have to replace the wiper arm spindle bar as a whole that said you could try this off you tube looks like the best solution that will still let you remove the arm later if needed..

yes if its leaking,then it's time to do it,also you dont have to do both sides but it is best to do them both, and of course you will need a 4 wheel alinement after the work.watch some you tube videos on how to do the fronts not that hard if you buy the compleat units, a lot harder if you are just replacing the strut inside the coil spring,,,you can do it sounds high to me,,,,,,,,, $200-400 us for 2 front struts plus around 100 for a 4 wheel alignment plus your own labor free be ready to pay more for quality struts over the cheap ones where was your quote from a local garage will be cheaper then the dealership......just wondering how many miles you have on your 2014,, i just turned 129k on my 2014

i would return to the place that did the work on the transfer case to see if they can diagnose what is going wrong to cause the noise problem before it ruins another transfer case,,,first i have read of this kind of problem here

my tires 235 55 19 seemed to be making some noise, i actually was thinking i had a bad wheel bearing, making a slight roar noise when coasting slow around 30 to 0, and in the process of trying to isolate the noise i ended up getting a nail in one of them so off to discount tire store and the nail was close to the sidewall so they replaced it with a new tire since i had bought the warranty on it, so then they said well your other front tire tread depth is down to 4 so they checked and said they would knock off 160 of the 230 price of a new tire so i said go ahead and replace them both,,, the rears are at 7-6 which is weird as i have them balance and rotated every 5 k and i dont spin the tires and the real kicker is they are rated for 85 k miles and since they were put on i only have drove 25 k miles on them, other than that they seem to be a great tire but hell wearing out at almost 25 k is crazy and then also making the noise which the dealer said that a lot of tire companies use a hard rubber core then a softer compound tread for the last part of the tire... wish i had asked if i could have replaced the 2 tires they were doing the warranty on with a different brand, dont know if they can do that , also the front end is in great alinement as every time i get the tires r-b i have the alignment checked at quick lane auto service center as i bought a lifetime alignment contract yrs ago so i use the hell out of it...LOL needless to say i wont ever recommend or buy anymore continental tires again

so do you have the 2.4 or the 3.6 ? the 3.6 is known to develop a leak around the oil cooler/oil filter housing you can see that from the top take off the plastic cover and use a led flashlight and look strait down the side of the filter housing there shouldn't be no liquids, also when it does leak it goes down on the drivers side of the engine....other than that i would take your car to a car spray wash and use it to wash off all the oil drippings you have there then drive it for a bit to dry it off and then take it home and park it with some cardboard under there to help pinpoint the problem

where is the recirculation door at? i know the location of the drivers and 2 on the passenger side. just looked on you tube, guess it is the one on the left side of the cabin filter

check out youtube for some videos on it as well

Is this what your talking about? ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization: Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system. This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again. PCM Zero/SpanThrottle Calibration Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these. Procedure steps: 1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start). 2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on. 3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. (HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.) (On some PCM versions, Engine Check light may start flashing here) 4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up. 5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF". 6) Start the engine. Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

found this by googling........ press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait