2late4u

well started my 2014 crossroad 3.6 with 129k and the gas cap light comes on, so jumped out and clicked it a few clicks and then restarted the engine, i thought it was gone for about 10 seconds and then it comes back on, about 3/4 tank of gas as well, so I cleaned the cap inside and around the rubber O ring then cleaned the gas tank neck connection real good, restarted the eng and then the light comes back on, so i put some silicone grease thats is for use with rubber products and nope still comes back on , so i run down to O'reillys part store and pick up a new gas cap (stant) they said put it on and drive it for a few days to reset the light ( they said if it doesn't work you can return the cap and get your money back),,, well had high hopes but the light still comes back on have turned the car off and back on about ten times so far still on, so I will drive it for a day or so going on a little trip on tues so can't get in the dealership before then,,,any other ideas? not good with meters for checking current voltage,, also i live in alabama so underside of the journey is rust free and watched some videos on you tube about broken wires, I dont think i have the smarts for chasing something like that down tho...ANY other thoughts on what to check before i put it into the shop in the next 2 weeks i do have the max unlimited warranty from mopar but my luck it wont cover this and also the $100 ded......LOL

i would assume you will have to replace the wiper arm spindle bar as a whole that said you could try this off you tube looks like the best solution that will still let you remove the arm later if needed..

yes if its leaking,then it's time to do it,also you dont have to do both sides but it is best to do them both, and of course you will need a 4 wheel alinement after the work.watch some you tube videos on how to do the fronts not that hard if you buy the compleat units, a lot harder if you are just replacing the strut inside the coil spring,,,you can do it sounds high to me,,,,,,,,, $200-400 us for 2 front struts plus around 100 for a 4 wheel alignment plus your own labor free be ready to pay more for quality struts over the cheap ones where was your quote from a local garage will be cheaper then the dealership......just wondering how many miles you have on your 2014,, i just turned 129k on my 2014

i would return to the place that did the work on the transfer case to see if they can diagnose what is going wrong to cause the noise problem before it ruins another transfer case,,,first i have read of this kind of problem here

my tires 235 55 19 seemed to be making some noise, i actually was thinking i had a bad wheel bearing, making a slight roar noise when coasting slow around 30 to 0, and in the process of trying to isolate the noise i ended up getting a nail in one of them so off to discount tire store and the nail was close to the sidewall so they replaced it with a new tire since i had bought the warranty on it, so then they said well your other front tire tread depth is down to 4 so they checked and said they would knock off 160 of the 230 price of a new tire so i said go ahead and replace them both,,, the rears are at 7-6 which is weird as i have them balance and rotated every 5 k and i dont spin the tires and the real kicker is they are rated for 85 k miles and since they were put on i only have drove 25 k miles on them, other than that they seem to be a great tire but hell wearing out at almost 25 k is crazy and then also making the noise which the dealer said that a lot of tire companies use a hard rubber core then a softer compound tread for the last part of the tire... wish i had asked if i could have replaced the 2 tires they were doing the warranty on with a different brand, dont know if they can do that , also the front end is in great alinement as every time i get the tires r-b i have the alignment checked at quick lane auto service center as i bought a lifetime alignment contract yrs ago so i use the hell out of it...LOL needless to say i wont ever recommend or buy anymore continental tires again

so do you have the 2.4 or the 3.6 ? the 3.6 is known to develop a leak around the oil cooler/oil filter housing you can see that from the top take off the plastic cover and use a led flashlight and look strait down the side of the filter housing there shouldn't be no liquids, also when it does leak it goes down on the drivers side of the engine....other than that i would take your car to a car spray wash and use it to wash off all the oil drippings you have there then drive it for a bit to dry it off and then take it home and park it with some cardboard under there to help pinpoint the problem

where is the recirculation door at? i know the location of the drivers and 2 on the passenger side. just looked on you tube, guess it is the one on the left side of the cabin filter

check out youtube for some videos on it as well

Is this what your talking about? ETC Throttle Calibration/Characterization: Late LX/LC Model (5.7LTR HEMI) Charger/Challenger Throttle calibration procedure. It basically does a zero/span characterization for PCM on fly-by-wire throttle system. This procedure if followed correctly will hold until battery power is cycled again. PCM Zero/SpanThrottle Calibration Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these. Procedure steps: 1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start). 2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on. 3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. (HOLD to the floor for about a three second count.) (On some PCM versions, Engine Check light may start flashing here) 4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up. 5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF". 6) Start the engine. Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. NOTE: You will likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.

found this by googling........ press pedal 3 or 5 times quick, wait 10, press and hold for 7 , wait

Resetting The Throttle Body Calibration (this step is ... - UpRev uprev.com/documentation/Resets-for-Nissan... ECU Accelerator Pedal Reset Procedure Note Timing is critical for this to work! 1. Turn the ignition switch to on. Dash gauges lit. Don t start the engine! 2. Wait 3 seconds. 3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 second. 4. Wait 7 to 10 seconds. 5. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for approximately 10 seconds.

well i finally broke down and replaced the rotors and pads this morning i am at around 129 k and i had previously replaced the oem pads with wagners and didnt like how much dust they were throwing so i had the old rotors turned ( really didnt like how they turned the rotors as they could only do 1 turn on them due to them be thin) and put on my old oem pads that almost looked new did this around 120 k ,,,wasnt having no real problems with this being done BUT just decided to do them right so bought some Raybestos 780964 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotor amazon for $60 each and some new Akebono ACT1589 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit , GREY around $74. the old pads still looked like over half to three quarter pad left so i saved them in case of an emerg along with the old rotors as my father always said to do ....LOL took it for a test drive, smooth as silk and stopping on a dime so i guess i am ready for the next 130k or more.

Still loving my 2014 (128 k) I had a 2011 (70 k)at one time as well, both have been great vehicles

i have never tried ebc brake pads, have always used wagner but have quit them and only use akebono brake pads they are great i use them on my daughters postal jeep and all my own vehicles

i don't fool around with the ac units ,i leave it to those that have the tools and knowledge, BUT i do know anything that has the words sealant ,or will solve a leaky radiator or fix your broken transmission , is not a fix it, only compounds the problem that you are trying to fix, as the old saying goes pay me now or pay me later but one way or other you are going to pay and it will always cost you more doing it that way,,,,but Good luck on your question

google parts geek,,,,,, Click to Enlarge (Read Reviews) Dorman Door Handle Part Number: 140775-05773949 Brand: Dorman Notes: Exterior Door Handle -- Paint to Match; Includes Bezel; Without Power Button; Plastic Specifically designed to look and function the same as the original handle Designed to match the dimensions and specifications Original manufacturer quality Ensure fit - this handle is vehicle position specific, so double check you have the correct handle for the same position and side of the vehicle you want to replace Condition: New Finish: Fine Color: Black Package Contents: Exterior Door Handle Shipping Options: Ground $75.43 Quantity: Add to Cart (5) In Stock This Part Fits: Catalog: B Position:Rear Left Vehicle 2017 Dodge Journey

would be best to go to your local dealership part office they will be able to help you a lot better than we can as you have already spent $$ on a part you thought was correct are you talking about the rear hatch or the rear lh door handle?

do you have 2 remotes? might try replacing the batteries? or remove the batteries and then reinstall them kind of like rebooting your computer but sounds like maybe the button on the remote is staying engaged, have never heard of this problem...good luck and please report back on your solution in case others has this happen to them

replace the engine and cabin air filter yourself and only spen around 25 for both of them,,,youtube will show you on both how easy it is, brakes and rotors can wait till you notice them pulsating when you press on the brake pedal,replacing the trans fluid will cost around 350 at a dealership , and i would have the tapping noise of the rocker arms taken care of right away,,,this is off a jeep site but same engine also this also is out of your age and miles but i would check with your dodge dealership to be sure they might still cover it for you......... Detroit – Good news for 2011-2013 Jeep JK Wrangler owners plagued by the left-cylinder head cracking issue. Chrysler Group has extended the 5-year/100,000 mile warranty out to 10-years/150,000 miles on the left-cylinder head for customers who purchased a segment of the 2011-13 vehicles with 3.6-liter V-6 Pentastar engines. In a small percentage of these engines, the left cylinder heads have failed due to excessive wear. Chrysler will extend its 5-year / 100,000 mile engine warranty to 10 year/150,000 miles. All other engine components will still be limited to the automaker’s 5-year/100,000-mile powertrain warranty. According to Chrysler, around the time of a 2012 design change, approximately 7,500 engines were susceptible to the cylinder head failure. Chysler’s spokesperson would not say whether the estimated affected engine count still holds true however Head of Quality, Doug Betts, said that the cylinder head problem has been found in an estimated 1/2 of 1 percent of Pentastar equipped vehicles. In 2012 Chrysler was made aware of the problem soon after customers began filing complaints of a “ticking sound” and other related issues including an illuminated check engine light. Chrysler’s months-long investigation of the issue tracked the problem down to what they refer to as a combination of contributing factors including poor-quality fuel and specific driving conditions that resulted in excessive wear on the left cylinder head of the affected engines. Chrysler said in a written statement about the extended warranty, “A small percentage of these 2011-2013 model year engines may be susceptible to an engine misfire which is caused by a combination of rarely occurring factors, including drive cycle and fuel quality.” “The issue does not disable the engine. Dealers will replace the left cylinder head with a new part with a minor design modification.” According to Chrysler, a cylinder head design modification was made in August of 2012. Since the design change the company says they have not had any reports of the issue happening in 3.6-liter V-6 Pentastar engines manufactured after that time. See your dealer for details on the warranty extension.

so are you saying as soon as you start it the fan kicks on or after it reaches operating temp of 195-205 after it warms up to those temps and then just a bit more yes the fan should kick on but not till its gets up to the 205-215 range ..... also quit looking at the dash marks and go by the actual temp readings , as we are not sure what you are looking at....and No the two different problems are not related, i hope the dealership is covering the cost of replacing the oil sensor as that can be a high dollar repair around 400-500 due to its inability to reach it the easy way,,,but there are videos on the internet showing if you have the right tools and knowledge and can work on it without actually seeing it, it's not to of bad of a reair ,of course the dealerships goes by the book and that is the expensive way of course

clean off your oil dipstick and insert it into the trans fill hole to see the level and color of your trans fluid ( should be pink or red if dark or burnt looking it will be brownish looking), youtube can give you the measurements on how to mark the oil dipstick to check the trans fluid level, but yes it sounds like the trans is slipping, you are 50 k over the recommended trans service and probally the same on the sparkplugs ( 100k) which could be part of your problem along with the coolant serace change (120 k) as well

there are 3 blend doors left,right, center which they say is hard to get to, would rec taking it to a good ac place to get it fixed quick

sounds more like your trans is slipping to me, my old truck as long as i drove it real easy it would shift good, but if i got into it hard it wouldn't shift into 4 till i let up,,,also which eng do you have sounds like the 2.4....better rent you a car for the trip till you have it checked out..dealership would only cost you 100-150 for the dig to see what they said is wrong you have already spent that much with the part shotgun approach plus how many miles on it? you might still have the powertrain warranty left 5 yrs 60 k i believe

i think the op is asking about a key fob, if so yes the key and or fob needs to be programed to your journey but if you're talking about the actual key lock itself then no