2late4u

it is , till it isnt

I would have the engine mounts checked before anything else,I just had this problem with my grandsons altima it would pull to the right when you hit the gas real hard and didn't have hold of the steering wheel,I had a mech say it was the CV axle but I really didn't believe him, this was into his shop for an alignment but let him put one in but that didn't fix the problem so he removed it and put the old one back in so he didn't charge me, then he said it was the right side eng mount BUT he said he didn't do them and before I was able to check it out to see if it was that, a girl rear ended his car so it is being totaled out.......

FYI on the parts not available, I have been waiting on a abs module for over a 1.5 yr but actually the dealership told me that the part is finally at the part depot in atlanta but is still loaded on a truck and is schedule to be unloaded on the 24 of this month.and this was 2 weeks ago he said this to me..WTF, he just looked at me and said I know I don't know what their problem is for NOT unloading their trucks but don't worry your name is on that part and that he would contact me when they get it...I am NOT holding my breath on getting it when he is saying something doesn't sound right..oh well

please report back on what you find to be the problem for others just remember a wire can be bad even tho its not broken into two pieces,,,I would almost bet its the wires up where you already found some broken to be your problem

2 Author Posted February 19, 2021 I wouldn't mind sitting there and reconnecting all 30 wires or whatever they jammed into the harness, but there is absolutely ZERO slack/play, and I'm not adding wire in between cuts. No thanks. The good news is that I've tracked down the issue. My car has been sitting a good 24 hours, with my dome light wheel clicked all the way off and the door still "open" - and this did NOT drain the battery. Car started without issue and it's 20* right now. I blasted some WD40 into the latch/lock actuator assembly, closed the latch with my fingers and sprayed more in there. Then I just yanked the rubber sheathing in the door hinge, pushed the plastic harness cover around a little bit, basically just tried to move the wiring around in a different order in the hinge. I gave everything 15 minutes to settle, came back out and everything works properly. I mean everything now. I regained my door handle touch unlock, and my lock/unlock master switch buttons. The door also recognizes when it's closed now. ONE STRANGE CAVEAT With the car running, I got up and went inside for a minute, holding the keys. The dash never said "KEY NOT DETECTED." I think this is because I started the car just by leaning in with the door open all the way, and never closed the door. Technically, even when the door closed the car at that first moment still considered it open, so it never gave the KEY NOT DETECTED warning. When I got back in later and closed the door, holding the keys, I got KEY NOT DETECTED. I toggled the dome light switch on/off and everything miraculously normalized. That dome light wheel has to be fed power from each door latch actuator assembly in order to recognize when one is open. So I am pretty sure the issue is the wiring in the door hinge, as everyone seems to have issues with. Further evidence, I started having problems with the factory master switch even after fumbling with the door hinge harness. So I've been playing around with the wiring in that hinge recently. SOLUTION FOR THOSE READING DOWN THE ROAD: Some good shots of WD40 into the door latch, in open and closed position Loosen up tension in the door hinge wiring Part 931-900 was NOT needed

2012 Drivers door jamb ajar switch Rate this topic found this under the forums section Electrical, Battery & Charging check it out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, By TD Charlie February 18, 2021 in Electrical, Battery & Charging Charlie Journey Member 21 Region:U.S. Northeast Journey's Year: 2012 Posted February 18, 2021 2012 SXT 162k. Car wouldn't start today at the worst possible time, naturally. I put a 200a charger on it and it fired up right away. Let it run 5 minutes, shut it off, and started right back up. The battery and alternator were replaced 7 months/12k miles ago. I noticed in the dash that the drivers door ajar light was flashing erratically, even with the door closed. I normally set the dome lights permanently off, but recently switched it on when doors open. I think the door ajar switch/sensor is quitting on me and this caused a parasitic drain over the course of a couple nights. So i set the dome lights to stay off for now while I figure this one out. I'm not entirely sure if that will prevent the drain either. My thoughts are to either pull a fuse or replace the drivers door ajar switch. I will have to look through a fuse diagram to see if that's even feasible, and I'm doubting it is. The door ajar sensors are $5 pieces of plastic but I don't know where they are located yet. More to come. Thread opened for suggestions and documentation purposes =]

what he said and also the dealership part shop would be able to provide you with the name of said part and a price for it as well, then you can check for an aftermarket parts if the dealerships price is to high for you......also is your dome light or any lights coming on inside the journey as if its that sensor going bad there should be??????????

no they don't move,,,just wondering did you buy OEM from the dealership or aftermarket camera lens and from where?

hard to tell from those pit but should be a lot more clear, wait till you get outside where there will be no reflection off your closed door

yes that rubber boot is where MOST of problems is due to the thin ass wires dodge used is the weak spot for breaking or shorting out

just an update on the battery hold down bracket that goes over the top of the battery,, it is a rod with the end pointed upwards that slips into the hole at the other end ,and almost impossible to get it into the hole as is, but after looking it over real good it is just snapped into the plastic bracket I used a bit of oil on it and used a pair of pliers on the end of it and it rotated till the pointed end is facing down instead of in the upward position and then it slips it into the connecter hole at the front of the battery and then use your pliers to turn the rod 180 degrees to turn the point upwards to snap it into place then just connect the vertical connector rod to tighten it down easy peasy that way

the picture should NOT be grainy, you probably have a wire problem somewhere along the way, make sure the camera lens is clean and not covered with any substance as well

well I was waiting on the wife to get her hair done and was charging my phone as well, when she came out and the widows went up real slow and and I thought oh chit, and yep the journey wouldn't start, called my step son that lived just down the block and got the journey started back up and went to a couple of shops of course no one could put a battery until Monday, so off to o'reilly's auto shop and got me a group 86 3 yr battery YIKES,, batteries sure have went up in price and went home and installed it, man its is in a bad spot but got it done and I am glad I have a set of the plastic grommets for the wheel well LOL this is the third battery in my 2014 so not to bad the last one (interstate ) lasted 4 yrs,,we were planning on going out of town next week so its a good thing it went out when it did

cars are getting to damn complicated nowadays and also have to parts assigned to the vin to work..sigh I do miss some of the old day traditions

just seen this video on you tube kind of explains what could be the problem on a dodge patriot, just thought id post it for us that are trying to follow the problem.....

Yes it is possible from what I've read about over toiling K-N air filters but I have run the same filter on my 2011 for 70k and then took it out and installed in my 2014 and have 163 k on it with no problems of course proper cleaning and recoiling as well,,KIND of like anything if done right there is usually no problems..I even bought the K-N cabin air filter as well has saved me a ton there as I clean it out every 6 months or so.....at the time it was around $35, and at $10 a pop for a cabin filter I have saved well $200 over the yrs not counting the air filter for the eng

whew I just got tied reading about all the work you got lined up,,well the wife just got diagnosed with COVID today as well oh well at least get it over quicker this way,caught her infection early so for her is going a lot better that mine did but I am already on the mind just cant stay still

I don't believe he is listing that he needs to rework his brake job and checking all the trouble spots like the caliper pins and rust jacking under the Brake hose clamps,,I gave him the heads up on all new pads and rotors that I have used with no problems, I don't believe in buying kits that they sell everything together

if you feel resistance and then released it then felt okay then your parking brake are working okay,,,just wondering have they changed the parking brake mine is just a pedal on the left side of the drivers fender wall? push it once to apply the parking brake then push it again to release the brake,,is that how yours is?

you apply the emg brake and then put the journey in forward and see if the journey moves if not apply a bit of gas to see how much resistance of the rear brakes you have you should noticed almost immediately`...ALSO quit TURNING your rotors they are not like old time rotors that had plenty on meat of the...I only use Amazon for these products and never had any problem as well akebono pads make three OEM pads for dodge as did as the last time I checked......do all 4 corners this nextime with all new parts and clean and lube all the slide pins and wire brush your caliper brackets and use the new clips and you should never have to change your pads for another 70-100k unless you live where there is a lot of ice and salt and then just a quick cleaning and inspection of slide pins would be a great tuneup Akebono ACT1596 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit Fits 2014 Dodge Journey 4.9 out of 5 stars 12 $60.57$60.57 Akebono ACT1589 Proact Ultra Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad kit , GREY Fits 2014 Dodge Journey 3.8 out of 5 stars 29 $71.72$71.72 List: $95.99$95.99 Raybestos 780964R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor Visit the Raybestos Store 4.9 4.9 out of 5 stars 16 ratings | Search this page Raybestos 780965R Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotor Visit the Raybestos Store 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 29 ratings | Search this page $37.98 with 27 percent savings-27% $37.98 $45.78 with 15 percent savings-15% $45.78

Yes that picture he posted didn't quit look like the end of the inner tie rod so he may have more problems that we don't see..................well only thanks to Covid and the Flu b virus ( also have all the shots for both virus as my wife has an immunity problem )Fri night started feeling bad went to ER sat morning and then sleeping for an hour then coughing then going back to sleep and then waking up again every hour for the last 2 days and nights,, ended back up at my Fr Monday morning my throat felt like a raw piece of meat, he prescribed some steroids treatment as I could hardly even swallow a small amount of water at the time, feeling better as of now BUT he said probally be a week before I get to be feeling better...the Dr did say that this Covid virus that the sore throat was a big issue for it

I don't have AWD but it looks like you have some leakage from the darker spots around the unit so even if you replace the bolts using some blue thread locker ,you might still be low of fluid of what ever kind... you mentioned sand in the wheel weights? there has been a lot of discussions on work being done on this unit klook under the forums for info

guess that is why I didn't see a video on the 2.4 did see one on the 3.5 2010 tho and I agree on NOT using most aftermarket parts off amazon and most part stores for the same reason yes cheaper but as you said most don't work as good or last as long as OEM.