2late4u

great sale on tires with Discount tires till 11-27 just bought a set of Michelin for the grandsons car got 4 Defender t&h 215 55 17 80 k with road hazard warranty and free shipping and tax for $ 603 having them shipped to my house till we take them down next month to get them mounted and balanced at the local discount tire shop, that will cost about $20 a tire so around $703 for the complete set, i had checked around town at 2-3 othe tire shops and they wanted over $1000 for the complete job i really like using discount tire, they run great sales during the holidays and also using their credit card saved an extra $80 off as well check them out they are a great tire store

I had changed out the OEM pads at 70 k at all 4 corners, the front pads didnt even look half wore out but I had already bought some Wagner Thermoquiet pads, so put them on and kept the old pads in the cupboard,fast forward so now at 120 k and i wasnt really happy with the Wagner pads I had been using them all my life, but was getting a lot of dust from them and also used them on my daughters jeep that she uses on her mail route and for whatever reason they dont seem to be holding up as good as they use to, so i ordered some Akebono pads and pulled the rotors and with 120 k looked liked they needed to be turned or replaced ,I wasnt having no problems with them but decided to take them down to the shop and they checked them and said yes they could turn them but would be at the min after being turned ( i had never had them turned before so was kind of surprised he said they were at the minimum after turning them)so i said okay ,probally should have bought some new ones but being cheap i didnt, well got them back and put on the journey and thought i'd compare the old OEM pads with the new ones and dam they looked same thickness as the new pads so I put on the new brake clips and reinstalled the old OEM pads and took it for a drive and everything is great ready for another 60-70 k i would assume, the journey seems to be braking a bit better and seems to be a bit smoother as well, of course i really didnt feel much vibrations before the brake job ,,,,one word of advice is to watch a youtube video as getting the new pads into position there is a trick when installing the pads into the caliper is to angle it in at a 45 degree into the brake clips, so you dont damage the brake clips...i was having a bit of a problem till i remembered that there was that trick to get the pads in the right way....

I hate it when you are watching a youtube video and they are talking and you have the volume turned up so you can hear them good, and then they turn on the music so loud it will blast you out of your chair

had a 72 nova 350 3 spd and during the winter time a huge piece of ice from the road hit it and was causing a bad noise also a scraping sound back then dealership just took it off and hit it with a hammer and then put it back on,,,ah the old days when things were simple dont know if a flex plate is the same thing as the inspection plate or cover that was damaged on mine

i dont believe he was being HARSH, as we can only guess what has happened and what you are talking about, he is spot on the 2 first problems with broken wires in thoes 2 different spots and offers advice on the last one, you probally need to have it looked at by a good garage that specialises on electrical problems or by the dealership but they will be higher priced but will probally have a better chance on fixing these problems for you, good luck and please report back on whatever you find out to be the problem in case others come up with a problem you are facing...

so did they replace them? or did you just pay them for a diagnostic fee and did the repair yourself?

looks okay to me

welcome to the group

a bit more info might help....eng 2.4 or 3.6 ?,,,,miles on engine? did this start all of a sudden? what is condition of the oil? if you are handy try removing the serpentine belt and start the journey for a brief minute to see if noise goes away/

also you should be able to use one end of the fobs and push on the start button and that will also start the journey If the cars engine battery is in good condition,,,being a 2018 your battery is probally the org oem one and is going bad

make sure you used the RIGHT batteries and also that you INSTALLED them correctly,,,,the fobs dont need to be reprogrammed after a battery change......Probably more likely your problem is the journeys battery under the fender not being strong enough to start itself and or loose or dirty connectors, get it started and then take it down to an auto store and have them do a load check on the battery and also have the alt checked by them as well

low brake fluid is usually caused by a leak OR brakes pads completely worn out, DEFINITELY get a second opinun might be a wheel speed sensor as that will make the ABS and anti skid lights come on as well as it also disables your cruise control

welcome to the group, there are a lot on here that are savvy with the radio stuff...LOL i dont hardly ever turn mine on and i dont use the bluetooth stuff as well,,hope everything works out how you want it to

Mopar 6808 3202AC, PCV Valve amazon has them 2 hole Brand: Mopar 4.6 out of 5 stars 18 ratings List Price: $84.10$84.10 Details Price: $63.60$63.60

i would rather hear a sound clip from inside as being reved with windows up and also driving down the road doing 70mph to hear the noise as well

also how many miles as well?, probally needs a flush and thermostat replaced with new oem rad fluid would be your first best option to start with

shorted out in the connector, same thing happened to my daughters caravan yrs ago on the connector that sent power from the coil intermental causing a rough engine and shutting off, it took a while before the mech found it LOL it burned out a couple coils as well,, thanks for responding back for others that might need this

more likely you have some shorted wires/broken wires in the left door near the hinged in the rubber covered boot that is a known problem with journeys as well as the rear hatch on the left side near the top another place where you could emd up with wires breaking as well,,,good luck P.S. welcome to the group as well

my daughter has a 2016 patriot 2.4 4 wheel drive with the AT 6 sp auto. that she uses for her mail route and has around 120 k on it as of now with no problems, but she knows other in her office that got the 2.4 and the 2. engine with the cvt that they all have had trans problems.....

your description is kind of confusing on what you have done but i would assume you are getting power to the rear heat strip on the hatch back window would mean to me that the actual heat strip must have a broken wire that is built into the heat strip,,, since both features work off the same switch activates both options the front mirrors should have the heat working even if the rear doesnt work... hmm i hope someone chimes in on this problem, please keep us informed for others that might have this happen to them after you get it fixed good luck

you should still have the remainder power train warranty 5yr /60k you may want to check into an extended warranty, as these transmission get expensive to replace if not taken care of good luck, here are a few sites to check out before asking your loacl dealership............... https://www.chryslerfactoryplans.com/default.aspx..........https://chryslerwarrantydirect.com/free-quote-test/

thoes problems dont indicate a trans problem, i hope your ext. warranty covers your trans replacement as well as it should. i had a 2011 3,6 with no major problems and ran it till 70 k, before i traded it in on my my 2014 crossroad and i have 120 k on this one i did buy the max lifetime warranty on it and i have had to use it twice so far once for a oil pressure sensor that went bad and then my back up cam went bad, so other than that i am totally happy with mine ...by the way welcome to the group.... P.S. i actually had a front wheel sensor go bad as well and i was having some service work done and they fixed it with a new for $60 parts and labor

nope first time hearing this

( If boosted the car starts right up and runs, as long as the cables remain connected. Once removed the car sputters and dies out unless the gas pedal is depressed. The car will run at a higher ram but it still flickers and a relay can be heard clicking back and forth)................Sounds like the ALTERNATOR is BAD as it wont keep car supplied with juice once going and car will run if jumped, so sounds like the BATTERY is BAD.........doesn't matter what the battery reads if it is not enough power to crank the starter.

just a thought as we dont have the crd here in the states but have post from all over the world what ever you found or do find to be your problem please post it here for others in your shoes to see and benefit from...good luck and by the way welcome to the group