2late4u

Google says ........ 11 Liters per 100 km = 21.38 U.S. MPG

my first 2011 journey had the dual system and yes not having the rear set right can make it turn on and off, my 2014 has just the manual system and have never had any problems..

as far as the brake dragging check the rubber hose that connects to the caliper has been reported they can build up rust that holds the hose to the brace builds up under the bracket cutting off pressure to the unit,,,also have you removed the slide pins in the caliper to make sure they are clean and greased properly,or you might just need to replace the caliper as well.....fixing this first might solve your other problem if not I would take that to the dealership

have a 2014 crossroad 3.6 , 164 k on it I purchased the lifetime Mopar warranty on it as well,,,,repaired have been an oil pressure sending unit,left front tpm,rear camera unit replaced, oil cooler/filter unit,and next week they are replacing my ABS module that came up with the code c2200-49 internal failure, also just remembered I replaced the rear upper lateral links with adjustable ones so the 4 wheel alinement could be adjusted I avg around 18-19 in the city I drive real easy and around 24-26 on the interstate when on trips...I agree doing away with the Journey was a BIG mistake,,,

the abs code would have no connection to the the replacement of the catalytic converter unless you damaged some wiring while doing the job. get the abs code read and hope its just a wheel speed sensor fairly easy to replace but use quality OEM parts as most aftermarket parts off amazon have a poor record of reliability

I have a 2014 crossroad with 164 k on it I haven't had the clunking noise for a long long time,of course I have had the trans fluid changed 2 times as well,but it did have the clunk noise the first yr or 2 every so often tho but if you have 238 k on it good luck

I have been checking online part stores like rock auto and they all say on backordered I do believe stellantis is trying to run dodge /Chelsea broke they have discontinued almost all the cars and such I seen where they are just now bringing the voyager van back for 2025 starts out at 40k hell Chrysler invented the min van and then killed it off and the journey kind of took over for the low cost family SUV and then killed it off and the Pacifica never really took off as well..Sad to see trucks and jeeps is what they really want to build and they have almost ruined the Jeep brand in my mind

well it has been a long time almost 2 yrs waiting on the ABS module to come in at the dealership has been on backorder of so i was told and didn't bug them about...LOL...codeC2200-49 ABS Module has detected an internal electronic error they told me when I first had the lights came on the ABS unit already on backorder due to covid but I really didn't hound them during my timeline since I could drive the journey just didn't have cruise control or the anti skid version of braking,, but 2 months ago I stopped by there and ended up talking to the service manger and he looked puzzled about my story so he checked the code and said yep the abs unit needs to replaced ,but I didn't ask but I believe I had got dropped out of the system a long time ago,anyways he said well your abs unit is over in atlanta parts depot waiting to be unloaded on the 24 of the month (August) and this was the beginning of the month, so I said great well one month goes by and no phone call so I called him and he said well the trailer still hasn't been unloaded yet but it would be on the 24 of sept and this was at the beginning of Sept as well, and he said don't worry your name and order number is on that unit and you will get it,so he called me yesterday and said we have the unit and to bring your journey in next thursday for the install..whoo hoo I just hope it really does fix the problem and also this service cost will be covered under my Mopar max warranty so only a $100 ded.. HMM I wondering how much it would cost without the warranty, I'll check on that and report back next week,, so far the moral of the story is don't be a easy going customer keeping bugging them so you don't get lost in the wind I guess

insurance would have covered a lonely road and full coverage and an accidental fire...LOL oh well sorry to hear about this would have been interesting to find out what caused the problem,guess we will never know

nav is NOT upgradable without replacing the radio itself, remote start and other options,such as rear back up camera,trailer hitch wiring and other things yes you can upgrade with a high quality programing unit but not everything can still be done such as DRL lights

235 55 19 are what I have been running for over 4-5 yrs no problem except your speedo will show 70 mph and your actually speed will be 71 mph also since it is a different size than the more popular size 225 55 19 If you need to replace a tire due to a road hazard they may not have the same brand and size in stock and you might end up with mismatched tire of your journey,,,,, ask me how I know.....LOL

bcm module wiring seems to be the culprit for some of the problems of doors not wanting to lock and unlock,,over my pay grade of this fix

I am reading that he is using the key fob and they all wont lock but will unlock using the key fob, so I am not sure it would be the wiring in the drivers door be the cause as he is not using the drivers door buttons,might be the key fob signal to the master controller for the door locks where ever that is, more info from the dealership part crib might be a good source of where to start,good luck

would assume its in the same place on a 2012

it is , till it isnt

I would have the engine mounts checked before anything else,I just had this problem with my grandsons altima it would pull to the right when you hit the gas real hard and didn't have hold of the steering wheel,I had a mech say it was the CV axle but I really didn't believe him, this was into his shop for an alignment but let him put one in but that didn't fix the problem so he removed it and put the old one back in so he didn't charge me, then he said it was the right side eng mount BUT he said he didn't do them and before I was able to check it out to see if it was that, a girl rear ended his car so it is being totaled out.......

FYI on the parts not available, I have been waiting on a abs module for over a 1.5 yr but actually the dealership told me that the part is finally at the part depot in atlanta but is still loaded on a truck and is schedule to be unloaded on the 24 of this month.and this was 2 weeks ago he said this to me..WTF, he just looked at me and said I know I don't know what their problem is for NOT unloading their trucks but don't worry your name is on that part and that he would contact me when they get it...I am NOT holding my breath on getting it when he is saying something doesn't sound right..oh well

please report back on what you find to be the problem for others just remember a wire can be bad even tho its not broken into two pieces,,,I would almost bet its the wires up where you already found some broken to be your problem

2 Author Posted February 19, 2021 I wouldn't mind sitting there and reconnecting all 30 wires or whatever they jammed into the harness, but there is absolutely ZERO slack/play, and I'm not adding wire in between cuts. No thanks. The good news is that I've tracked down the issue. My car has been sitting a good 24 hours, with my dome light wheel clicked all the way off and the door still "open" - and this did NOT drain the battery. Car started without issue and it's 20* right now. I blasted some WD40 into the latch/lock actuator assembly, closed the latch with my fingers and sprayed more in there. Then I just yanked the rubber sheathing in the door hinge, pushed the plastic harness cover around a little bit, basically just tried to move the wiring around in a different order in the hinge. I gave everything 15 minutes to settle, came back out and everything works properly. I mean everything now. I regained my door handle touch unlock, and my lock/unlock master switch buttons. The door also recognizes when it's closed now. ONE STRANGE CAVEAT With the car running, I got up and went inside for a minute, holding the keys. The dash never said "KEY NOT DETECTED." I think this is because I started the car just by leaning in with the door open all the way, and never closed the door. Technically, even when the door closed the car at that first moment still considered it open, so it never gave the KEY NOT DETECTED warning. When I got back in later and closed the door, holding the keys, I got KEY NOT DETECTED. I toggled the dome light switch on/off and everything miraculously normalized. That dome light wheel has to be fed power from each door latch actuator assembly in order to recognize when one is open. So I am pretty sure the issue is the wiring in the door hinge, as everyone seems to have issues with. Further evidence, I started having problems with the factory master switch even after fumbling with the door hinge harness. So I've been playing around with the wiring in that hinge recently. SOLUTION FOR THOSE READING DOWN THE ROAD: Some good shots of WD40 into the door latch, in open and closed position Loosen up tension in the door hinge wiring Part 931-900 was NOT needed

2012 Drivers door jamb ajar switch Rate this topic found this under the forums section Electrical, Battery & Charging check it out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, By TD Charlie February 18, 2021 in Electrical, Battery & Charging Charlie Journey Member 21 Region:U.S. Northeast Journey's Year: 2012 Posted February 18, 2021 2012 SXT 162k. Car wouldn't start today at the worst possible time, naturally. I put a 200a charger on it and it fired up right away. Let it run 5 minutes, shut it off, and started right back up. The battery and alternator were replaced 7 months/12k miles ago. I noticed in the dash that the drivers door ajar light was flashing erratically, even with the door closed. I normally set the dome lights permanently off, but recently switched it on when doors open. I think the door ajar switch/sensor is quitting on me and this caused a parasitic drain over the course of a couple nights. So i set the dome lights to stay off for now while I figure this one out. I'm not entirely sure if that will prevent the drain either. My thoughts are to either pull a fuse or replace the drivers door ajar switch. I will have to look through a fuse diagram to see if that's even feasible, and I'm doubting it is. The door ajar sensors are $5 pieces of plastic but I don't know where they are located yet. More to come. Thread opened for suggestions and documentation purposes =]

what he said and also the dealership part shop would be able to provide you with the name of said part and a price for it as well, then you can check for an aftermarket parts if the dealerships price is to high for you......also is your dome light or any lights coming on inside the journey as if its that sensor going bad there should be??????????

no they don't move,,,just wondering did you buy OEM from the dealership or aftermarket camera lens and from where?

hard to tell from those pit but should be a lot more clear, wait till you get outside where there will be no reflection off your closed door

yes that rubber boot is where MOST of problems is due to the thin ass wires dodge used is the weak spot for breaking or shorting out

just an update on the battery hold down bracket that goes over the top of the battery,, it is a rod with the end pointed upwards that slips into the hole at the other end ,and almost impossible to get it into the hole as is, but after looking it over real good it is just snapped into the plastic bracket I used a bit of oil on it and used a pair of pliers on the end of it and it rotated till the pointed end is facing down instead of in the upward position and then it slips it into the connecter hole at the front of the battery and then use your pliers to turn the rod 180 degrees to turn the point upwards to snap it into place then just connect the vertical connector rod to tighten it down easy peasy that way