2late4u

should be okay if it will fit

welcome to the group and congrats on buying a used journey 9 yrs old and not having something to wrong,as you know you always here from the complainers and hardly ever from a happy owner. i had a 2011 traded it in with 70 k no real problems and my 2014 has 100 k on it with only 1 or 2 real problem but was covered under my warranty. plan on running this one into the ground as i bought the lifetime warranty on it.

if you use the led on your high beam your drl will be on high beam all the time,if they are good led and say they are canbus ready then you shouldn't need the resistor,if not then yes you will need them on each bulb you use so will need 4 of them

what do you mean....added an oil cleaner and a transmission fluid repair? are you saying a oil change and a transmission fluid and filter service...usally when they go into limp mode it is a transmission problem, good luck

also welcome to the group

earlier journeys had problems with the wires breaking in the rubber boot between the door and the fender well might be something wrong there,,,good luck i am sure others will chime in as well with other info

i use that crc stuff as well,better then the little felt pads they sell at the part stores

so you have a new battery and ground strap and the lights are starting to dim and you got a battery saver mode , so did he check the alt to see if it is putting out enough juice? a humming sound might indicate a pulley or bearing going bad by dragging, should be easy to run down...good luck

first iv ever heard of this happening here on a journey. thanks for the picture of the oil cooler..does seem weird that it is designed like that wonder why the ends look like that looks like it was designed to cool other things or what ever,,,,, that said put 70 k on my 2011 .3.6 eng and just turned 100 k on my 2014 3.6 eng no problems with either except the oil pressure sending unit o the 14. glad you were able to get it fixed before damaging your engine

What happens when ECM goes bad? Engine Stalling or Misfiring Erratic engine behavior is another common symptom of a bad or failing ECM. A faulty computer can also be responsible for engine stalling or misfiring, though this tends to be more intermittent. These symptoms may come and go, and may appear to have no pattern to their severity or frequency.

afraid she is going to get her feelings hurt as there will be other repairs on used vech please give report if this fixes your problem in a few weeks good luck

oh well, good luck

welcome and as above stated the same is true

i remember when i was about 16 (yes that many yrs ago) we lived in Mi. and just before every winter dad and I would get the cars and truck ready for winter, put on the snow tires, new plugs,points, Plug wires every 3 yrs,check the many belts for cracks or rips,and every 2-3 yrs a new battery. shovel in the trunk with a bag of sand along side of it with the jumper cables as well. and always got his advise to always back into a parking spot so in case you do need a jump at least the battery would be easy to get to....LOL at least we always made it thur the snow storms.

would guess so

4 yr old battery, temps in the -30 of course. good luck and buy the best, longest warranted battery you can find. also some owners have commented of the battery trays being rusted out, might want to check on that while they are or you are changing it out...good luck

welcome to the group, i am sure someone will chime in that might can help but probally the dealership which can be $$

a load check can only be done at a garage or part store , you have to have a special tester for it. also at that low of temp it can also be the Alternator Decoupler Pulley could be going bad or dragging so many different things that could be happening, if its the org battery first id replace it right away wouldn't even bother checking it,then have check the alt just to be safe

make sure you have the alt checked and also the belt tensioner pulley as well of course at that temp everything is going to possible drag when trying to start, i would also get that battery load checked right away most part stores will check it and the alt for free. better safe than sorry by waiting till spring. good luck

you should have a 12 month and 12 k warranty on the oil cooler repair ...dont let it expire before finding out where your leak is

passenger side,well it probally is the oil cooler leaking, did you replace it or the dealership?either way also check your coolant bottle to see if any oil residual is getting in there as well, good luck, i stay away from any and all quick oil change places, my daughter takes her jeep into the dealership for her oil changes and not sure what happened but the next day she seen oil all over the driveway ,lucky shes got concrete, so she took it back and they gave her some mumbo jombo speech about what happened but they redid it and gave her a free oil change, she really couldn't remember what they told her they did to it? KIDS.......

that sure is an expensive way to solve your problem then, as a simple led light kit and run the power wire to the battery sure would be a lot cheaper. your welcome,, love to play....i have to ask,,, your question was why the trailer lights are not working but you end up going to buy a brake controller as a fix for your problem???????????????????????????????They get it all hooked up and I drive home to get my trailer. Once I get everything to hook up, I find that I can only get my flashers to work on the trailer. No tail-lights, no blinkers, no break lights...only the flashers would work. I call up the people where I purchased the trailer, they tell me that everything should be working. It is a used trailer (2012) but they've literally gone through and replaced everything except the frame. No reason it shouldn't be working. So I take it to the shop where they installed the trailer hitch. The guy scratches his head when he sees that only the flashers are working. So he gets his tester out and plugs it into the 7 pin/blade receiver that they installed. I run through the gamut of signals and lights...and his tester shows that everything is working! So it must be something the Trailer sales place messed up. Right? I go to the Trailer sales place and they say, no...it can't be. We literally changed everything. They get out their tester...same results as the hitch shop. Everything works with the tester, but not with the trailer. So the owner gets under there and starts checking things and for an hour he can't find anything wrong. He replaces wiring, connectors, the ground...everything you can imagine...but it won't work...except for the flashers!

first off the bcm IS NOT the brake control module, it is called a Body control modules ,,also i would likely not to believe a reg mechanic can flash this for you instead of the dealership, of course i could be wrong since iv been married 3 times....the link you are showing IS not what you need, hate to say you are in way over your head you need to go to a good garage that knows what they are doing with hitches and the wiring or go to the dealership to get it down correctly, but that will cost you a bit extra

i doubt the dealership is trying to con you if the vin calls for the higher price one ten that should be the part you need ,try calling a different dealership to see what they tell you or even better look at your old part to see what is printed on it as well...good luck and report back on what ever you find out

so you come on here and bad mouth us on your very first post...you sure know how to start off on the right foot....