2late4u

would guess so

4 yr old battery, temps in the -30 of course. good luck and buy the best, longest warranted battery you can find. also some owners have commented of the battery trays being rusted out, might want to check on that while they are or you are changing it out...good luck

welcome to the group, i am sure someone will chime in that might can help but probally the dealership which can be $$

a load check can only be done at a garage or part store , you have to have a special tester for it. also at that low of temp it can also be the Alternator Decoupler Pulley could be going bad or dragging so many different things that could be happening, if its the org battery first id replace it right away wouldn't even bother checking it,then have check the alt just to be safe

make sure you have the alt checked and also the belt tensioner pulley as well of course at that temp everything is going to possible drag when trying to start, i would also get that battery load checked right away most part stores will check it and the alt for free. better safe than sorry by waiting till spring. good luck

you should have a 12 month and 12 k warranty on the oil cooler repair ...dont let it expire before finding out where your leak is

passenger side,well it probally is the oil cooler leaking, did you replace it or the dealership?either way also check your coolant bottle to see if any oil residual is getting in there as well, good luck, i stay away from any and all quick oil change places, my daughter takes her jeep into the dealership for her oil changes and not sure what happened but the next day she seen oil all over the driveway ,lucky shes got concrete, so she took it back and they gave her some mumbo jombo speech about what happened but they redid it and gave her a free oil change, she really couldn't remember what they told her they did to it? KIDS.......

that sure is an expensive way to solve your problem then, as a simple led light kit and run the power wire to the battery sure would be a lot cheaper. your welcome,, love to play....i have to ask,,, your question was why the trailer lights are not working but you end up going to buy a brake controller as a fix for your problem???????????????????????????????They get it all hooked up and I drive home to get my trailer. Once I get everything to hook up, I find that I can only get my flashers to work on the trailer. No tail-lights, no blinkers, no break lights...only the flashers would work. I call up the people where I purchased the trailer, they tell me that everything should be working. It is a used trailer (2012) but they've literally gone through and replaced everything except the frame. No reason it shouldn't be working. So I take it to the shop where they installed the trailer hitch. The guy scratches his head when he sees that only the flashers are working. So he gets his tester out and plugs it into the 7 pin/blade receiver that they installed. I run through the gamut of signals and lights...and his tester shows that everything is working! So it must be something the Trailer sales place messed up. Right? I go to the Trailer sales place and they say, no...it can't be. We literally changed everything. They get out their tester...same results as the hitch shop. Everything works with the tester, but not with the trailer. So the owner gets under there and starts checking things and for an hour he can't find anything wrong. He replaces wiring, connectors, the ground...everything you can imagine...but it won't work...except for the flashers!

first off the bcm IS NOT the brake control module, it is called a Body control modules ,,also i would likely not to believe a reg mechanic can flash this for you instead of the dealership, of course i could be wrong since iv been married 3 times....the link you are showing IS not what you need, hate to say you are in way over your head you need to go to a good garage that knows what they are doing with hitches and the wiring or go to the dealership to get it down correctly, but that will cost you a bit extra

i doubt the dealership is trying to con you if the vin calls for the higher price one ten that should be the part you need ,try calling a different dealership to see what they tell you or even better look at your old part to see what is printed on it as well...good luck and report back on what ever you find out

so you come on here and bad mouth us on your very first post...you sure know how to start off on the right foot....

CURT 56330 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness for Select Dodge Journey.....................

journeys dont have a frame, they are a unibody .style....... Rather than using a body placed around a separate frame, the frame and body in unibody vehicles are one single piece

most after market parts are as good as oem parts,just depends on who makes them,but if it is a oem part making the noise than an oem probally wont fix it.js

run it by your local transmission garage they can scan it to see if they can fix it, usually no charge to just scan it but the dealership will charge. but you need to get it scanned to see what is causing the lights to come on and then address your other problem as well.good luck by the way is it a FWD or AWD? mine is a fwd so maybe if it is awd maybe that does affect the transmission

if its a wheel sensor going bad,your abs braking will not work you will still have brakes but not the anti skidding option, also as i said before your cruise control wont work with these lights on but this should not effect the transmission operation

i did the same for my daughters caravan that she used on her mail route she was to cheap to have the filter and fluid changed so every oil and filter change i did for her i would suck out 2 quarts of trans fluid and put some new back in started out the fluid was kind of dark but after 3-4 changes the trans fluid color was looking nice and red again and she never knew she was paying for it,LOL i do work cheap for her

good to know, as many times iv changed my oil ( 100 k) iv never bothered to look inside the cap

how cheap is cheap?

also the tongue weight is awfully low for our journey, a towing shop said that with my hitch and and the carrier i was going to use and also my wife's medical scooter i would be over the tongue weight and it would be unsafe, i added it all up and was over the listed max amount by about 25 lbs, but i am still using it and havent had any problems, except that i have had some problems with the rear alignment and replaced the upper rear control links with adjustable ones the oem ones are non adjustable. but have read a lot of other journey owners having problems with this as well my 2011 i never had any problems with them. oh well nature of the beast i guess

yep

as he should notice this not the oil cooler he has in his 2015, to be honest i just changed my oil in my 2014 and i cant remember what is in the cap that could have broke off like what he is showing in his hand that would make the cap rattle,as the new filter with the nipple goes in facing downward in the newer journey,and actually dorman does make a kit to fix the old style by pass after it is broken.

just found the cap on amazon prob cheaper than the dealership Mopar Genuine 68191350AA Engine Oil Filter Housing Cap $15.64

i do all my own oil changes on my 2014 so are you saying part of the oil cap has a small piece of plastic broke off from it? as the filter nipple faces downward there was some plastic piece caught in the nipple? hmm i dont see how the cap could rattle as it screws on fairly tight, as long as it doesn't leak,and you dont have no problems with the oil bypass valve not working you would be okay for a while i guess... some bad news for you iv read on here from some other post that just the cap cannot be ordered without the whole oil assy cooler you might would find one at a junk yard or maybe e bay i guess. good luck and please report back on what ever you do or find out for others that might have this problem

then there should be no charge for that as it is part of the repair same for the 4 wheel alignment