2late4u

should be able to clean it good enough to be okay use some dawn dish washing soap,,,,,,

best answer yet....Kudos to you sir

https://www.lkqonline.com or look for your local junk yard

what is not working? shouldn't be to hard to find where it goes as it only reaches so far,let us know.

was just reading that on some engines after installing a crank shaft senor it has to be relearned or calibrated this might be your problem

well since we now know what you have and what you are looking for,on mopar site that is$625 and i would pay that before paying that much for a dorman part. must be a special assy part that has been balanced together since it is a drive line shaft, would be cheaper to get one from a junk yard or a used part supplier if you are looking for a deal...as i have said before just another reason wouldn't buy an AWD just to many extra expensive parts that can go bad. good luck and i am sure someone will chime in on this part for you

Failure analysis: Thinking back through the events when I replaced the rear pads, I remembered that the driver's side rear caliper was the first one I worked on. I had tried to use the universal cube tool to reset the pistons and I realized that I was turning the piston the wrong way. I ended up backing the piston out of the bore to the point where it became cocked. There must have been enough of an air gap to admit a large quantity of air into the cylinder, causing the loss of pedal firmness and authority. Lessons learned: Use the proper tools (i.e.: not the useless "cube" tool) for resetting the calipers. so it was the mechanics fault NOT the useless tool that turned the piston the WRONG way, by the way i use that same useless cube when i work on my journey and other vehicle that it fits ,,,LOL it works correctly every time for me,you must have got a defective one i would assume

SHAFT. Front Drive. Right.. [3.6L V6 266.76 mopar part ,,,,you didnt mention which side you were having a problem with......auto part store would def be cheaper but then it wouldn't be as good as OEM are you talking about something else?

are the stripes straight, one thing for sure no one can steal yours and blend in with the rest of them..looking good

he there is one going according to your problem then there if different then start your own just be specific and give the most info on your journey and problem you can

are you thinking this is a common dodge journey problem ?,you were rear ended get the insurance to repair it...

i agree to the bad wire or ground causing so many problems

most dodges you turn the key or push the start button 3 times then 3 times again and then 3 times again then wait the 5 flashes pause and 5 more flashes means it done and all is well

(91°C × 9/5) + 32 = 195.8°F that is normal for a 3.6 engine at least that is about where mine ranges from 185-215 depending on temperature and driving conditions make sure you dont have a air bubble in the coolant system this was just discussed a few days ago check the forums for the post and or google on how to use the bleed screw to help remove the bubble from the system

welcome to the group, not a mind reader,nor a fortune teller,so what is your problem?

i tried mine when we first bought it but then turned it off we never use it,guess i am to old school for all this new tech,,, LOL

220000 km = 136701.66 miles LOL had to goggle it,,, about the same when they talk about their mpg

the gas pedal is drive by wire so you must have a electrical problem i would believe, other than that i have no idea i am sure others will chime in here with more info.good luck

well if you think you need a new battery by all means go ahead and replace it as journeys act crazy with low to bad battery's , but i would assume you have a different problem then the battery

welcome to the group, hopefully you will have many more trouble free miles, i just turned 100k on my 2014 as well

agree with the above post,check with your local dealership to see if your within the power train warranty

hard to understand him but he shows where the bleeder screw is and how to add coolant and turn on the heater ..i have watched several of their videos it is on Fremont over in Italy but the same as our journey

as to why one is higher than the other could be brand of the unit and also which side of the journey either way you got a great deal on both of the repairs as far as the labor charges, and the difference in parts can be a wide variance ...OEM mopar cv joint probally would have been at least 200 or more and the labor as much,that said the OEM part will have been a lot better quality as well tho.most aftermarket cv axles even tho they claim as good as oem isn't true,,,,you get what you pay for

if and when you have the heater core changed look up youtube info real easy shortcut to do on our journeys most auto repair shops should be able to do it a lot cheaper than 1000. check it out also you probally have what Ohara fred is talking about assuming you put in the right thermostat.good luck

thanks for replying what fixed your problem , the next guy will know where to check first