2late4u

well i would say it was something you did that has caused the problems that you are having, so why did you want to clean the battery post as that is quite a chore to go thur just to clean the battery post, how old is the battery as today's electronics are very sensitive to battery voltage, i would have the battery load tested before doing anything else just to see what shape it is in, and from there makes sure you tighten everything back tight on the cables as well there is always a battery temperature sensor attached to one of the battery cables where it connects to the battery make sure that wire is connected and tight as well, it is an angled nut on the end of the cable,,,other than that good luck and please report back to what you find to be your problem...

sounds a lot like its the clock spring, but could be something else but no its not a fuse as all the different thins have different fuses...good luck and report back on what you find

welcome to the group, i have no info but am sure someone might know,,,good luck

well i am doing a lot better with the knee, have been going to rehab for about 3 weeks , getting better but still a ways from normal but they said it will probally be at least a yr to get back to almost normal. doctor is talking about when i go back to see him dec 27 for x ray and then he said he is thinking we need to remove the wire from my knee as the one end of it is pushing on the skin on the side of my knee looks like a big pimple with out the white head on it...LOL doesn't hurt but is a bit sore if you press on it....bad thing is when they remove the wire they have to cut you wide open again, like they did for the first surgery...dam that is about 20 staples..oh well has to be done ....you all take care of your knee caps...............

i bought a clay bar kit off amazon about 6 months ago and never got around to using it as i have never done it before ,we had some good weather a few days ago so i seen it sitting there and thought well i would do the front of the journey and then the left side another day and so on...at first when i was doing it i thought hell this isn't doing nothing, and then i wiped it off and DAM the paint finnish was slick as owl shit, so i finnished the rest of the hood and front fenders and then came back with a coat of wax, i couldn't believe how slick and smooth it was,,,i did the other side the next day and then finnished up the next day on the roof and right side..i used the mothers clay bar kit ,it comes with a bottle of detailer spray and 2 small bars of yellow clay and a microfiber towel cost was around $14-15 only used 1 bar of clay and that was because i dropped the first 1/2 bar on the ground and they say throw it away if you do that so 1 kit would do about 4 jobs depending on bad or how big the vehicle,,,mine is a 2014 and i really havent ever wax it since i bought it, but i do keep it wiped down with detailer spray at least once a week

well to late for this advise but if it was running okay before and not after the undercoating i would have been back to them as it sounds like something they might have done to it, cut a wire or damage something other than that i have no experience with the o2 sensors good luck let us know what you find in case it happens to someone else

sounds like the fan and your thermostat is working correctly to me, not sure why you got a code but 194 and running and 295 when sitting at idle sounds okay/

welcome to the group,if you change out the rims stick to even size rims as the tires are more available and cheaper

so if this all started right after your brake job at the dealership and have been back and the said they need to break in for a while ( which is bullshit) i would go back and demand they fix what they messed up on their dime ...be nice but be firm and dont stand for no double talk

plenty of info on the in the forum on the rear camera install,you could do it yourself and then have the dealership activate the sales code or just let them do it, or have an aftermarket one installed....

as well pull the fuse for the alarm system to see if it is what is causing the problem and go from there

you tube has some great videos on how to do a quick and easy way to replace a heater core on the drivers side on the journeys

guess not

sorry for the poster that had problems with his 2012 journey altho that is some high mileage even for a 2012. i had a 2011 and traded it in with 70 k with no problems except with the smaller size brakes on it and the dealership took care of that, have had my 2014 and got 98 k on it now and had a oil sender unit went bad was covered under my max warranty at around 45 k and then had to pay for one wheel sensor that went out on it as the repair cost was under the ded on my warranty.some do have problems with their journey from what iv read but from my own experience they have been one of the most reliable cars iv owned in a long time.all vechiles have their own problems just look at the different ato blogs on the internet

tried to find the article but havent found it yet, did find one about 2021 models that the v6 would be available only to awd journeys from what it read.i was thinking they want the journey to fade away and use the 3.6 engines for the new models coming out i guess....i also just read that GM is bringing back their 3 cyl engine as well

actual i had read that the future journeys until till it is discontinued would only be available with the 4 cly

dark road and a can of gas and a match, full insurance is a must

first time iv heard this one, as stated above you could take it to an electrical shop but that could get expensive as well, as stated above it could be anything casing the problem, good luck and sorry i cant help

your post doesn't make much sense, Is that service awd sensor or what?has the battery been load tested to see if its good by a auto garage ,not meaning we boosted it.assuming its a 3.6 eng?need a lot more info if you want help

would seem like your local tire store or garage should be able to do it at a reasonable cost

the sensors probally got damage and have to be replaced with new ones they cant be reprogrammed either they work or not

i would assume you used google to find us and you can find a you tube video as well on how to replace a wheel sensor as well ,no its not hard to change one out but you will have to know which one is the bad one, have never changed one myself but had one go bad and let the dealership change it since they were going to do some other work as well they charged me $60 part and labor.... sensors run any where from $20-60 depending front or rear and who you buy them from and the quality of them. it could also be a bad wheel bearing as well instead of the senor.since you just had your brakes done maybe they messed one of the senors up in the process might want to have them recheck their work. the only safety concern of not fixing it right away is the anti skid on your brakes will not work but your brakes will continual as they have been with no problem and also your cruise control wont work due to the abs light on ,if you havent noticed yet.as i said before GOGGLE be thy friend

$3.99 U.S. auto zone Dorman - Autograde M12-1.50 Serrated Wheel Stud - 14.42 mm Knurl, 47.2 mm Length i just google the info.... e bay as well $7.99 there Mopar Part Number 6508707AA Item Condition New Item Description Wheel Stud Manufacturer Brand Description Wheel Stud-Ref# 3 on Diagram Only ITEM SPECIFICS Item Name: Wheel Stud Category 1: Rear Suspension Category 2: Rear Suspension Category 3: Brake Components Part Ref# on Diagram: ONLY PART REFERENCE #3 ON THE DIAGRAM IS INCLUDED Fitment Type: Direct Replacement Height: 2.335 [in] Length: 1.035 [in] Weight: 0.55 [lb] Width: 1.035 [in] See Item Specifics section for additional specifications about this part. Vehicle Fitment Summary To confirm that this part fits your vehicle, enter your vehicle's Year, Make, Model, Trim and Engine in the Compatibility Table. Also review the notes section in the compatibility chart for additional specifications about this part. This part generally fits Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep vehicles and includes models such as 200, Avenger, Caliber, Compass, Grand Caravan, Journey, Pacifica, Patriot, Sebring, Town & Country with the trims of 30th Anniversary Edition Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, American Value Package Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, AVP Sport Utility 4-Door, Base Sedan 4-Door, Base Sport Utility 4-Door, Canada Value Package Hatchback 4-Door, Canada Value Package Sport Utility 4-Door, Crew Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Crew Sport Utility 4-Door, Crossroad Sport Utility 4-Door, Express Hatchback 4-Door, Express Sport Utility 4-Door, GT Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, GT Sport Utility 4-Door, Heat Hatchback 4-Door, Hybrid Platinum Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Hybrid Premium Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Latitude Sport Utility 4-Door, Latitude X Sport Utility 4-Door, Limited Convertible 2-Door, Limited Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Limited Platinum Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Limited Premium Sport Utility 4-Door, Limited Sedan 4-Door, Limited Sport Utility 4-Door, Lux Sport Utility 4-Door, LX Convertible 2-Door, LX Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, LX Sedan 4-Door, Mainstreet Hatchback 4-Door, Mainstreet Sport Utility 4-Door, North Edition Sport Utility 4-Door, North Sport Utility 4-Door, R/T Hatchback 4-Door, R/T Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, R/T Rallye Sport Utility 4-Door, R/T Sedan 4-Door, R/T Sport Utility 4-Door, Rush Hatchback 4-Door, S Convertible 2-Door, S Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, S Sedan 4-Door, SE 30th Anniversary Edition Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, SE Hatchback 4-Door, SE Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, SE Plus Hatchback 4-Door, SE Plus Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, SE Plus Sport Utility 4-Door, SE Sedan 4-Door, SE Sport Utility 4-Door, Sport Sport Utility 4-Door, SRT-4 Hatchback 4-Door, SXT 30th Anniversary Edition Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, SXT Hatchback 4-Door, SXT Lujo Sport Utility 4-Door, SXT Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, SXT Plus Hatchback 4-Door, SXT Premium Hatchback 4-Door, SXT Premium Sport Utility 4-Door, SXT Sedan 4-Door, SXT Sport Sedan 4-Door, SXT Sport Utility 4-Door, Touring Convertible 2-Door, Touring L Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Touring L Plus Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Touring Mini Passenger Van 4-Door, Touring Sedan 4-Door, Uptown Hatchback 4-Door . The engine types may include 1.8L 1798CC 110Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 2.0L 1998CC 122Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 2.4L 2360CC 144Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 2.4L 2360CC 144Cu. In. l4 GAS DOHC Turbocharged, 2.7L 2736CC 167Cu. In. V6 FLEX DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 2.7L 2736CC 167Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.5L 3497CC 215Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.5L 3518CC 215Cu. In. V6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.6L 3604CC 220Cu. In. V6 ELECTRIC/GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.6L 3604CC 220Cu. In. V6 FLEX DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.6L 3604CC 220Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated, 3.6L 3605CC 220Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated. This part fits vehicles made in the following years 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018.

seen this video before he gave some good info here

you could do a reverse heater core flush. look on you tube for heater core quick replacement video.i would start with the thermostat replacement first as it would be the cheapest, find both the heater core hoses before they go Thur the firewall and see if they both are hot and warm or hot and cold, and i did just have a friend that spent a bunch of money fixing a no heat problem they replaced everything including the heater core and then she said they finally found out it was the oil cooler unit causing the problem i dont see how it could be that but the oil cooler does run coolant thur it as well.... good luck and keep us informed