Powdered Toast Man

Does anyone know if the exterior door panel for the front drivers side from a 2010 would be bolt on compatible with a 2011? I know they LOOK the same from the outside but are they compatible from the frame and mounting bolts inside? I have a 2011 with corrosion issues on the drivers door and I'm wondering if I buy a door off a wrecker 2010 model will it be a bolt on replacement? Like can I mount up my interior components from my 2011 door without issue?

Exactly. I even called FCA Canada to see if they would be willing to work with me on it since the KM's are so low. Nope.

Here's the update: The wiring was a coincidence and the problems had nothing to do with it. I had a critical failure of the viscous coupler in the AWD system. It acts like a clutch before the rear differential and transfers power to the rear wheels. The dealer quoted me $2500 for the repair and told me both the viscous coupler and the rear differential were "destroyed". I took the car to an independent transmission shop for a second opinion. They found me a used viscous coupler (salvaged with 20,000km on it). They found no evidence of damage to the rear diff. Total repair cost ended up at just over $1300. So major powertrain failure on a vehicle with only 60,000 km on it. Beware of shopping for an AWD and get the extended warranty.

Sorry to dredge up an old topic but I'm going through this exact same thing right now. I had an aftermarket hitch installed on my 2011 RT. I had the Mopar harness from when I bought the Journey so the trailer shop used it. Had to get the PCM flashed by the dealer to activate though. No big deal right? Wrong. The reflash has gone terribly wrong and now my AWD system is all messed up. Its going back to the dealer on Monday after it spent yesterday at a transmission shop. They said the problem is the PCM is sending power to the AWD 100% of the time. Funny how that coincides with the reflash of the PCM.

Ok, so the saga begins on Tuesday. I took my 2011 Journey R/T (AWD) to a local shop to have a trailer hitch installed. When I bought the vehicle it included the Mopar trailer wiring harness in a bag so I gave that to the shop and told them to use it for the trailer wiring. When they finished the install they told me I would have to take the vehicle to the dealer to have it re-flashed to activate the trailer wiring as there was no power to it. I took the Journey to a local dealer and they proceeded to reflash it. That's where the trouble started. As soon as they flashed the vehicle the Driver Control Module went offline. That means the traction control and ABS were non functional. However the trailer wiring WAS working. I ended up having to leave the car there for the entire day. I got it back at the end of the day "fixed" with the explanation they had traced it down to a plug harness that had a loose ground pin. When they cleaned it and adjusted it the DCM came back online and all the codes ceased. I drove it home and parked it until morning. Wednesday: I took the Journey out in the morning and upon the very first corner I made I noticed something felt wrong. Every time I took a corner I felt a tugging sensation and then a thud when I got going in a straight line again. I called the dealer and they said it couldn't possibly be related to the problem with the DCM. So I took it to my trusted local mechanic instead. He had the car for most of the day and he eventually told me that there is definitely something wrong in the rear differential and that his shop isn't equipped to fix it. He recommended an experienced local transmission shop. Today: I took it to the transmission shop and they had it all day. They can't repair it. They told me they traced the issue down to the fact that the vehicle is supplying (electrical) power to the rear differential 100% of the time. Basically the vehicle is telling the AWD system to be engaged at all times. So when I take corners on dry pavement it's tugging and thumping because all the wheels are trying to drive. They were able to disengage the AWD by physically unplugging the wiring harness above the viscous coupling unit. They said it's fine to drive for now but it just doesn't have AWD. It has to go back to the dealer and I have an appointment on Monday. I believe this has to be completely related to the problem with the reflash and the driver control module. It's way too much of a coincidence that they had issues with the electronics and now the AWD system won't disengage because the system is telling it to stay on. Has anyone seen this before or have an recommendations on what could be going wrong here? I'm already anticipating the dealer is going to come back and say the DCM is faulty and needs to be replaced. The vehicle has LESS THAN 60,000 KM on it (37500 miles) but it's 7 years old and off warranty.

Long story short: Wife backed into the not completely open garage door and broke off the radio antenna on the roof. It popped out of the socket and appears to be a magnetically attached unit. Problem is that I don't know how to get it back into the plastic trim collar without further damaging the collar. Any ideas on how to properly do this? Thanks.

Submit a complaint via the Transport Canada link above. TC actually called me the other day - about a week after I submitted mine. They wanted more information. They'd really like to know the part numbers for the lines that are blowing. I don't have that info yet because they're on back order and have yet to be replaced. Also, make sure you comment on how the power steering failure was a SAFETY issue when it happened. For example, mine went out while I was traveling at highway speed. If you had difficulty controlling the vehicle be sure to mention it. TC currently has an open investigation into Journey models 09-11 blowing power steering lines.

Wow, so this isn't an isolated incident. I've had two separate PS lines blow out in the last 3 weeks. Both times the dealer told me the new line is on "back order" and they have only patch repaired the lines. I'm sorry DodgeCACares but if Dodge cares then they'll issue a bloody recall on these things. My dealership told me that's all they've been doing all month is fixing blown power steering lines in Journeys. This last time it blew on me on New Year's Eve while I was driving on the highway. I have submitted a complaint to Transport Canada. Hopefully they'll force a recall if Chrysler won't step up and do a voluntary recall.

Thanks DC. I'm planning to make an appointment at my dealer and I'll insist on taking a service advisor or tech out on a test drive to demonstrate the issue so that I can make sure they understand when and where it's happening.

Sorry to bump an old topic, but I think mine started doing the same thing you all describe here just a few weeks ago. I don't know if it's related to the winter tires being a different size than the stock tires, but a few weeks ago I noticed this odd rumble coming from the engine area when around 60-70 km/h. It only happens when the engine is under load (on the gas). It's weird because I've had it a year and a half and this is the first time this issue has come up. I narrowed it down to when the tranny is in 5th and I press the gas around 60 km/h.

LOL! That sounds like a total pile of crap! How many owners here have slapped a completely different sized set of winter tires and wheels on their Journeys and no one has had to recalibrate their EBS and AWD!

Quick question: When this key fob problem occurs, is your cell phone in the same pocket as the key? Does your wife also keep her cell phone in her purse near the key? I discovered that my iPhone interferes with the key fob signal. If I have the key in the same pocket as my phone, the doors will not unlock when I touch the handle. Keep the key on the opposite pocket and you probably won't have trouble anymore.

Well, my X47326 rims clear the calipers just fine. One thing I did learn today on my return visit to Costco for the purpose of my non-working TPMS sensors: There was a change midway through the 2011 model year to the TPMS sensor type. They went from 315mhz to 433mhz. Costco installed the 433mhz as that is what their guide specified. However, my Journey required the 315mhz sensors, which is why they did not work. They replaced the sensors and now they all work fine. So beware if you have a 2011 and are purchasing TPMS sensors - you may need one or the other and if you're going aftermarket, they may not be able to tell you which ones except through trial and error.

Hmm... All this talk about fits. I got 17" steels at Costco. Rim #X47326 because that's the one specified in the guide for the Journey. They SEEM to fit (very tightly). I did notice yesterday a noise that sounds like something rubbing - but only when on the gas and only at around 50-60 km/h. I have to take it back to Costco this week anyway because the TPMS sensors they installed do not work. I'll get them to check if there is any rubbing.

Funny because everything I've read says they were 315mhz in the 09-10's and switched to 433 sometime by 2011.