redtomatoman

In general, the manual mode does not downshift unless the computer feels it is necessary. It is best to drive in automatic mode unless you need control of the shifting for some specific reason. From the owners manual: Mostly the transmission will stay in the manually selected ratio, however: − If the system detects powertrain overheating, the transmission will revert to the automatic shift mode and remain in that mode until the powertrain cools off. − If the system detects a problem, it will disable the AutoStick mode and the transmission will return to the automatic mode until the problem is corrected. Peace.

I think the crew and sxt are basically the same. Just different names for very similar or identical trim lines. There were many options for both trims so any given crew may be identical to an sxt from another year. There is probably no real difference, someone just wants to pay less for the identical vehicle. Peace.

There is a uconnect setting for which doors unlock. I believe there is a setting for how long the radio will remain on after the ignition is set to off. Check your manual for specifics. Peace.

Update. Complained about compression test. Found out spec for new Pentastar is 150 psi wet. Mine tested 140-145 wet. The previous was a dry compression test. So far, runs good. Glad that's over. Hope I don't have any more problems like this one. Peace.

No. I don't know compression specs. That's one of my questions. The other question is the 15% leak down result. Is that excessive for a normal cylinder? Obviously the 90% result is excessive. Peace.

So compression testing showed 120 on all cylinders except #4 which was at 85 psi. #4 is certainly abnormal, but I am concerned the 120 may be too low as well. Leak down testing was 15% on cylinders 1 3 5 6. It was 25% on cylinder #4 and 90% on cylinder #2. I am concerned about the 15% leak down result on the "normal" cylinders. Comments please. Peace.

They are replacing my left cylinder head. Code was PO304, misfire on cylinder 4. Both the compression and leak down tests were abnormal around cylinders 4 and 2. They also found oil in my intake manifold. I have not heard a determination as to why oil was there. I had my cam phaser replaced in 2012. Btw, I'm not sure how that may or may not be related to the cylinder head issue. It was a PO302 code that tipped them off to the cam phaser issue. I have to trust my service center. I hope they don't Jack this up. Peace.

The dealer found a misfire in cylinder 4. It is yet to be determined if it is an ignition or fuel misfire. I did notice a small hiccup on the tach at idle after the light came on. Before it was rock solid without any hiccup. No symptoms at higher RPMs. I hope it's just a plug or coil. Should have my diagnosis tomorrow. Peace.

Update: I have been using the armour all wheel protectant for the last 4 months or so. It works pretty darn good. Brake dust still settles on the wheels, but it's much better than before. I would recommend the stuff if brake dust bothers you. Peace.

It just came on solid. Stayed on from LA to Flagstaff. Stayed on for two gas stops in-between. Disappeared in Flagstaff. Don't think it was the gas cap. I plan to have it checked tomorrow along with an oil change, etc... Thanks to all for the responses. I'll update if/when I know the code. Hi Peace.

On a road trip. Easter tomorrow. Engine dummy light just came on. Don't know the code. Should I drive home 10 hours? DJ seems to run fine. Peace.

Does anyone know how to remove the plastic rivets that secure the nylon wheel well liners? I have an annoying rattle at highway speed that comes from the passenger side. I think it may be that liner rattling. The rivet doesn't seem to want to come apart at the top. Maybe I'm missing something. Peace.

Cheap grey? What about chipped and scratched red? That may look worse. I had a friend who painted his interior trim and within a year it as chipping and scratched. I thought it looked tacky. Peace.

So far, my EBCs have been money! Improved my braking 200%. Peace.

It does look like a journey. Since it's a Volvo and 3x the price, it will be 100x better reviewed too. Ha! Peace.

I only had shudder in the brake pedal. So mine were not as bad as you describe. I opted to ditch the OEM pads and rotors. I had EBC slotted rotors and greenstuff pads installed. They have been great. Stopping power seems very adequate even with the smaller 2011 calipers. Turning your rotors may just lead to the same headache all over again. Peace.

Updated my iPod on my itunes today and plugged it back in to uconnect while running some errands. Started to read/update the iPod like always. It started playing the first song on the iPod like always while it updates. It stopped playing a few times. Weird. After a few stops and starts, the music began sounding statically. The music was still playing but it was full of static sounds. Weirder. That continued until I made my next stop. After, all was fine. Is this a common problem that others have had? How was it resolved? TIA. Peace.

I can shut all four of my 2011 doors with one or two fingers, no problem. I'd have some adjustments done. Peace.

No diesel DJs here in US (or at least very few). Other diesels are great. Based on your post, I'd consider changing it out as long as you go with the computer chip. It would have to make financial sense too. Don't lose so much in the swap that you can't recoup it. Good luck. Peace.

Just turned 55,000 miles. Not flawless as I had the cam phaser issue and my dealer had to crack the engine at about 5,000. I have also replaced the 2011 brakes with new EBC rotors and pads. Other than those issues, pretty darn good. Still runs like the day I brought her home. Still has plenty of power and better than 25 mpg when I'm not fully loaded on the roof. Very happy. Peace.

Will it start in neutral? Or if the brake is pressed more firmly? Peace.

Totally non-mechanical comment here. Maybe the previous poster is alluding to this, but isn't there a park sensor that can be malfunctioning? The DJ won't start if it thinks it's in gear. Good luck. Peace.

Saw this on the interwebs. I've got limited knowledge of what is BS and what is not. Not sure if this system of tune, intake, throttle body, etc is legit or not. . . Just throwin' this out there to see the reaction of members who understand all this tuning info. I like the idea of additional torque in the mid-range. That's where our DJs suffer. http://www.getoverkilled.ca/pentastar.html Peace.

That'll be just in time to keep my 2011! Peace.

Maybe I don't understand what is going on here, but I believe this is normal behavior for the manual setting. Mine behaves this way, I think. While the computer will force an upshift when accelerating in manual mode to avoid RPM damage to the gearbox, it will not force a downshift when decelerating. That must be done manually. If you don't want to shift, just leave it in automatic mode. Peace.