redtomatoman

Thanks. Appreciate the follow through. I may consider getting a new phone in light of your experience. Peace.

First, I'd like to say that education and intelligence are mutually exclusive. Second, I lived in Cali for many years and I finally couldn't stand it any longer. I've seen the type a million times. . . Californicated nut jobs. Haters. California elitists. Sell the Journey. Get a Range Rover. I'm sure they don't have sucky transponders. Your neighbors will think you're awesome with a Rover parked in the driveway. In my previous post, I wasn't calling anyone a dumbass, specifically. The original story simply reminded me of the situation that I relayed. Lack of forethought often results in unsavory future outcomes. Think now, reap the benefits later. That is the takeaway here. Oh yeah, and be careful with your chapstick, of course. Peace.

After starting this thread, I have played around with my key fob. I have come to the conclusion (as I think you have) that having the fob is not any different than having a traditional, really. Yes, it does contain a battery that has to be replaced, but all the same rules apply. Whether you lose a traditional key or a fob, you can't get into nor start your journey. If you haven't already tried this, it may make you feel better about your fob. Take the battery out, enter your journey using the traditional key, and push the batteryless fob against the starter button. It will start. The only wild card here is the alarm. When you lock the journey manually with the armrest switch, the alarm will not arm. If you lock from outside the journey with the fob button, the alarm will arm. Not sure if starting your journey with a dead fob will stop the alarm if you armed it with the fob previously. On my testing day, I did't want to wake the neighborhood. I'm assume starting the car will disarm the alarm. Not sure, though. BUT, I can tell you your journey will start with a dead fob. If you do the experiment with the alarm armed, let us know what happened. As an aside, trying to lock the key fob in the journey takes work. You have to manually lock each door by pushing down the barrel. Yes, all four. The car hates it. I have a special situation. When I go surfing, I take nothing to the beach (due to theft) or in the water (obviously) except a traditional key attached to my surf trunks or wetsuit. I need to lock the fob in the car and enter the car using the traditional key. Ace Hardware can copy your traditional key so it attaches to a key ring or whatever you want. The fob key has no holes. Hope this is helpful. Peace.

I used the turtle wax bug & tar remover to clean my wheels last wash, seemed to inhibit a lot of the brake dust from accumulating on the wheels. Also heard that teflon bike cleaner works so well no dust accumulates at all. Got some, going to try that next wash. If it works as well as I heard, I plan to post under the exterior cleaning area. We'll see. . . Peace.

See TSB 08-048-11 Rev A above. Take it to the dealer. Maybe that TSB applies, maybe not. My CD does not skip, my radio works, and calls only drop when coverage is the problem. Peace.

Ditto for the stereo voice controls. Not sure what that is all about. It doesn't really bother me though. Voice controls for the phone, on the other hand, seem to work well. iPod shuffle delay is a weird quirk and is normal. Cover art is hit and miss for me as well. Again, whatever. . . I should be looking at the road anyway. I too have to pay attention when filling up, there are times when the tank does not want to fill to full. The only issue I have had is the SCCM/Clock Spring in the steering wheel went out and cruise control and other steering wheel controls were haywire until that was fixed. That took two trips to the dealer to get diagnosed correctly, then I had to wait for the part to be sent from Cleveland. So three trips in all. BUT, I love my Journey! Look on the bright side, you got Mango Tango. I was told that the R/T does not come in Mango in the US. Settled for the Pearl Red. Peace.

As long as this tread has be revived. I have been curious about this Cilajet stuff for a while since I read this thread initially a few months ago. I did check the internet and there are no dealers in Albuquerque. Closest is Phoenix. The site talks about Boeing approved, micron level, epoxy, blah, blah. What is this stuff? How much did it cost? Can it be applied after waxing? I didn't see anywhere on the site that they said interior or upholstery. Maybe I didn't look close enough. I keep my journey pert damn clean, so it has peaked my interest. Peace.

Obviously I have no idea what the problem is with your rig, but I had a similar problem with my steering wheel controls and cruise control. To make a long story short, what eventually solved the problem was replacing the SCCM (Steering Column Control Module) which included the clock spring. So far everything works as it should. The service guy here told me the SCCM is kind of like the spinal column of the vehicle. All the electrical impulses from the steering wheel and column go through that module to their intended destinations: cruise, wipers, lights, and all other features controlled on the steering wheel and column. Good Luck. Peace.

Bought my 2011 in June. I have not gotten the map outdated message as of yet. I went to the site and found the update, I think. There is no date anywhere that I can find. How would I know this is an update to the map that was factory installed? Maybe I am missing where that is listed. I certainly want to be sure that when I do get the message and decide to update that I am getting a newer map and not just reinstalling what I already have. Its probably in the manual somewhere, but it is possible to find the date/edition information within Uconnect? I'm not giving garmin $149 USD unless I'm sure that I'm getting a significantly updated product. Peace.

I'd say pushing 5000 lbs for the AWD. It would be interesting to compare manual mode to the "D" or automatic mode. 7.4 is pretty good. Interesting that you did not shift from 1st until 6000. I suppose I'd be afraid I'd do some damage. I know that computer would override any bad decisions and shift before damage is done, but it seems that the computer would have intervened before 6000 rpm. What app exactly is that? Fun stuff, I agree. Peace.

Don't post just to be a hater. It doesn't seem like you want any help with your journey. Please go bye bye. Go post on the mustang forum. Haters bore me to sleep. :boring: Peace.

After reading this thread, I checked mine. No scoring or evidence of wear. 10K miles. I did notice that there is some rust on the rotors. Normal? Peace.

Who has experienced their engine using oil? Is this a characteristic of the 3.5L in the 09s and 10s or does this extend to the 3.6L in the 11s and 12s? What about oil? Do those with oil usage use conventional or synthetic? Maybe there is a pattern to this. Peace.

Hmmm. . . Yes, the dummy oil light is not a replacement for checking your oil, but I should check it every two weeks?!? I'm going to begin looking more closely at my oil levels, but WHY should I have to do this? In a brand new engine? I have read threads regarding dry dipsticks in others' journeys and have frankly ignored them thinking that there must be something else to blame with those cases. Is there something going on here? My understanding of an engine is that there is no reason that a healthy engine should use enough oil to have a dry dipstick within 3000 miles. The dealer has changed my oil at 1000, 5000, and most recently at 9000 miles with conventional oil. I plan to switch to synthetic after the first year. I have not been checking my dipstick between oil changes because the engine does not do anything that leads me to believe that it is using anything but a nominal amount of oil between changes. I certainly do not have a leak as I park in the garage with a cardboard pad under the engine. I do pay attention to that. If any leaks do occur while under warranty, the dealer and Chrylser will hear about it. My advice to you Toknow is to take your journey to the dealer and have them check out the engine and figure out why you are going through oil like that. At 19K, that engine is just a baby. Either they figure out the problem and fix it or they tell you everything is ok. If you do burn up your engine, at least you have that history. I would have them check the dipstick. It may not be correct for your engine. Who knows? My understanding is that an engine does not go dangerously low on oil and not get hot. Anyway, low oil is not something to mess with. Good Luck. Keep us posted on what happens. Peace.

This story reminds me of the guy who drives around on his spare because those dumbass tire stores want $200 for just one tire. That same dumbass is then completely surprised when he has another flat and is stranded without a spare. OMG! When you get your new car designed by Pokeman, please, for your own sake, read the manual and check your pockets before doing laundry. Chapstick makes a real mess in the dryer. Peace.

Steel Mutha F#&kin' Panther Takin' the Journey to see them in Vegas this weekend! Peace.

I've found mine to read a little low (worse) than my miles/gallons calculation math. Peace.

For a PC, open a photo you want to upload with Paint (right click on the photo and choose open with). Go to Image at the top. Choose Stretch/Skew. In the Stretch area, choose whatever percentage you wish to reduce the photo to in both the Horiz and Vertical. Save it on the desktop and upload it from there. After it is uploaded, drag it to the trash. Do the same for subsequent photos you wish to reduce in size to upload. I'd like to see where these adjusters are. Peace.

Can't really tell from your first post if you are looking at a used 2010 SXT or buying new. I have the 2011 R/T. Love it. I don't have a 2010, but it looks like the 2010s have more issues based on my reading this forum. Get an 11 or 12 model, IMHO. Lots of storage space, great power, drives like a smaller car. I drove everything before deciding on my R/T. It simply outclassed everything else. Good luck. Peace.

I'll be interested to know what the problem is with this. Haven't had any problems with sirius, though. Love the Uconnect system, but it is quirky.

VERY NICE. I have the same yakima system. Rock solid. Use my racks for bikes and surfboards. Expect some decrease in MPG.

I've had good luck with both carpet cleaner and oxyclean. Good luck. Peace.

I am referring to the "dropouts". Not sure what causes them. The song does not change or stop, but when the "dropouts" occur, its like 1/4 second is missing from the song. Happens maybe 1 per hour or something like that. Hopefully there is a firmware solution. Is this like the other iPod update that we need to download, or is it something that the dealer has to do? Peace.

I have accepted the periodic iPod skips as normal operation for the uconnect system; they only occasionally annoy me. I find them curious, does anyone know why they occur? Peace.

On my most recent trip, I did not use my cruise control (because 2 days at the dealership wasn't enough to get it fixed). I got 25.6 mpg while using the efficiency meter on my EVIC. I had a bike on the roof, two passengers, and a cargo area full of gear. I had previously gotten 25 mpg without a bike on top of an empty vehicle while using cruise control. The punchline here is that the efficiency meter works! It definitely takes some attention, but if you want good mileage, pay attention to that meter. It will show you the way. Peace.