bramfrank

I've been through one oil sender already so I wasn't shocked to see the check engine light come on . . . when I went through the menu I found the oil pressure gauge pinned to the top - another shorted sender, I guessed. But when I was driving around the pressure indication dropped to normal ranges. Dealer says to come in after making an appointment, but in any case there's no dangr in driving the vehicle. I suppose it could be shorted only when cold, but it's a weird symptom.

Would I be correct in assuming that the touchscreen works properly for all functions UNTIL you touch the phone icon? If so, then the problem is most likely to be the Bluetooth module - if the older radios are anything like the current ones it is a box that plugs in - it is usually in some hard to get to location, but someone who knows for certain will need to chime in here. I looked and fond some reference to an external module on the last generation vehicles, but without access to confirming data I am not going to point you off on some wild goose chase. If you do need a replacement radio check Ebay and your local recycling yards for much less expensive alternatives to a new unit from the dealer.

Interesting news . . . . . glad you didn't have to pay for it. Do you know WHICH gears they replaced? Not that I have the problem, but in case someone does it can be very useful information.

The 2 big things about nitrogen are that; 1. It is dried (potentially reducing corrosion inside the rim and reducing the variance in air pressure to what is specified by Boyle's law). 2. The molecules are pretty large, reducing migration of the gas through the tire walls. So, in theory you can go longer without topping up the pressure due to loss (but you still need to adjust for changing seasonal ambient temps) and your rims *might* like you better because there should be less moisture trapped inside. In practice I wouldn't refuse it, but wouldn't bother paying for it - the atmosphere is already 78% nitrogen and constant topping up will concentrate the nitrogen further (though do nothing for the moisture).

Try rotating the tuning knob to another position. The encoder wheel could be messed up. . . . .

Sirius weather is a joke - they only offer what you see.

Why bother? It is simple enough for those on the board to simply assume that if a post is on page 12 and is from 6 years ago that the part is sold or the seller has lost interest. It certainly won't make new posters any more responsive. Storage is cheap, leave the posts where they are.

The update adds no new features to the system and the update has no impact on North American radios, but corrects some minor issues with foreign language versions of the system. So, no. Your car won't start mirroring your phone's screen of you apply the update.

If it starts when jumped the problem has nothing to do with the state of anything other than the battery and it's connections. I would imagine that either there is a corroded connection on the cable that goes from the jumper block to the battery or that your new battery has insufficient capacity or voltage (perhaps oe cell is shorted out). Take a voltmeter and check the battery voltage with the ignition off. Then check the voltage with the ignition on. Then they to start it and check the voltage while that is happening. Next: Jump start the vehicle and measure the voltage with the engine running. An idle battery should show about 12.6 volts Under accessory load it should not drop below 11 volts at an absolute minimum It should show about 14.2 volts while charging. If the battery voltage shows low, it could be bad, or the alternator may not be charging properly If the charging voltage shows low then you need to look into the alternator.

Posters get no e-mail notifications to questions - and the notification bar gets pretty cluttered for active users. If you use craigslist or Kijiji (in Canada) much then you ought to be used to people not responding to inquiries on ads. It seems to be human nature. But the biggest issue is that many people only come here infrequently.

You have to drive around at above 15 mph for a while before the system will figure it out . . . . . the same way it figures out new sensors. But given that the system can't figure out which is where it would seem you are at square one - antenna or module.

As you know, there is a physical stop (click) when you engage the express down feature on the windows. Unless there's a similar detent (click stop) on the switch you do not have express close feature on the front windows.

I missed this thread when it first appeared and given that my 2014 Canadian Crossroad has auto up and down front windows, I suspect that the feature became one of those relegated to the 'plus' version of the vehicle - making the base version somewhat lacking by comparison. As to oil change intervals, the manual says the warning may come on at some point after 3,500 miles and to not travel more than 10,000 miles or exceed six months between changes. Feel free to ignore your dealer. They are simply out there trying to sell you as much as they can.

The early generation Journeys clearly use a different system than the newer ones, but there may be some common DNA. You CANNOT self install the OEM remote start on the second generation Journeys because the controller needs to be programmed with the sales code and the controller mated to the BCM by the dealer before the vehicle can be started - so I suggest chasing down the installation instructions for the early generation Journeys and reading them through to see what's involved for yourself.

Homelink modules tend to be stand-alone, so it SHOULD be as simple as replacing the sun visor, though I have no idea whether the wiring harness has the connector to plug it in there - certainly there is power to run the makeup light, but is it the SAME power feed? Does it have the same connector? Worst case? You resell it.

The proper tire pressure is 36 psi all around. The number on the tire is the absolute max pressure to meet the load factors - at the pressure you are running, it must be like driving on tires of steel - they have little 'give'. I suggest you would probably benefit from a read of the owner's manual - they are available for download. Just google "2014 dodge journey owner's manual"

There is a way to restore maps to the unit (with, or without a cost, depending on the route you care to follow and how technically adept you might be), but even if your warranty has expired you *ought* to be able to get Dodge to fix it free since this is a persistent defect that began before the warranty expires (expired?) and was covered by an ineffective recall. By the way, you ca download all the firmware and other updates you like from the uConnect web site - you've lost your maps and they are not included in any free download. You don't need to replace the radio, just reload the mapping. Once you've set up to reload the maps you can simply do it again when (not if) it loses them again. On my last Journey, which had the small screen I simply put in a Garmin 3790, which is small and has voice recognition. Because it didn't have an overhead console I put it above the mirror and fished the cabling down the passenger side roof pillar and connected it to the fuse block behind the glove box. If you have an overhead console I beiieve that the smaller (4.3") Garmin devices (the 3790 is a 4.3" device) can be wedged into the glasses case and the wiring run down from there. It MAY be possible to find switched power in the roof liner, which means that you wouldn't have to run the cabling down to the fuse block, but I'm not certain.

On my '11 I had a 3790 installed above the mirror (I could do that because it was an SE+ and had no overhead console). I ran the power/traffic cable down the right side pillar and connected the power to the fuse block behind the glove box - no visible wires at all and with that model's voice recognition I never had to touch the unit at all. Placement is a bit different with the Limited because there is no available space above the mirror - what a friend who has a 4.3" screen like my 3790 did was to install the unit in the glasses hodler and he also ran the wiring through the roof liner. That can obviate the need to go out and buy a new radio and spend the $500-$1200 that these go for in the aftermarket. I happen to have one for sale, priced at $800 and listed in the classified section.. You'd need to replace the RE2 TGM (radio module) you have now with the RB5. There are three different models and only the latest version supports traffic. You will require an unlock code for your new radio - not a serious issue, I am mentioning it so that you are aware that you will need it if you decide to proceed. That nav version of the radio has sales code RB5 and goes by a myriad of part numbers and there's no magic decoder ring. I know of people who have bought several units each, all of which turned out to NOT be nav versions in spite of the fact that the sellers said that they were. HTH

The system works with three antennas and the sensor that is closest (strongest) to a particular antenna is assigned to the wheel in question. Once all three have been determined, the fourth becomes obvious. Sounds to me like you have an issue wither with an antenna, a connection to an antenna or with the vehicle's TPS sensor module.

I don't have the link handy, but you'll find the information on which pins are used (and it becomes obvious which 2 are the shield and ground and which is the composite video input) in the installation manual for the 2011 backup camera kit. It is out there for the googling.

Sure it does. You need to have the dealer activate the sales code. Depending on the dealer, it could be free.

You didn't need the adapter unless you have the 4.3" screen - the 8.4 has a direct composite video input on 3 pins of the TGM.

The R/T comes with the 8.4" display standard these days. And I could never find the wiring in my Crossroad which also came with the 8." display. Strangely the pins in the connector at the rear of the radio module dedicated to the video input had wires in them, suggesting they were there, but for the life of me I couldn't find the other end. I had purchased the 2011 kit so I ran the wiring to the front and had my dealer make the connections when I brought it in to have the sales code added.

All years use the same size . . . .

My '14 Crossroad is a 5 seater.