bramfrank

You don't need the entire motor unless it has a Canbus connection (not likely). What you need is the switch, or the relay that drives the motor if there is one - simple troubleshooting to figure out what is delivering the current to the motor.

You beat me to it . . .

Did you at least insist that the dealer reimburse you for replacing a perfectly good switch? Sounds a LOT more like bad power (usually a failing battery or corrosion to the ground connections) than anything else. And dealers are clueless or calculating (or some combination of the two) - if they were held accountable for their diagnostic errors life would be a lot better for everyone - but then they make mistakes they get to keep the profits and then get to charge you more. When the pressure sensor in my '14 went they tried to blame Costco (where I get my oil changed) claiming that it was the oil filter, at which point I told them to give me the one that was in the vehicle for evidence and that Costco would be getting the bill. Suddenly the story changed and it became a warranty repair - not to mention that the failure mode (meter reading max pressure all the time) was inconsistent with a failure of the oil filter receptacle. My point? I have none because there is little 'we' can do against incompetent and predatory dealers except to understand the problems and try to stay a step ahead of their story lines.

Hello Chaim and welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you will discover that anything you may be able to do will involve serious compromises because aside from the radio, the TGM controls everything from the air conditioning to the heated seats and is the interface to the settings for the rest of the vehicle. You can move from the 4.3" to the 8.4" uConnect display relatively simply, and even then, unless you have automatic air conditioning you will lose *some* functionality unless you implement the auto air by installing sensors and having sales codes added. Perhaps you're OK with the compromises, I wouldn't be. My first Journey (I'm on my second) was an SE+, one up from the CVP and it had no Bluetooth and the 4.3" display. My current one has both and a whole lot more - I don't regret owning the SE+ but I prefer the Crossroad+. Where is home for you?

Why don't you update your maps? Streets and POIs do change. I've got 2017 mapping in my RB5.

A true Murphyism.

Not unless you live in a jurisdiction with powerful lemon laws and even then. But the one I have in my '14 has yet to hiccup. (talk about tempting fate!!) And if or when it does I can deal with the problem myself at home.

It isn't likely to be the radio as the BT module does all the heavy lifting. I assume you have no warranty left?

Dealers are often without clues. I could be wrong, but the radio is unchanged so it must be do-able. There have been no changes as far as I know . . . . What I can say is that the wiring for the camera was supposed to have become standard in the vehicle in 2012, but we couldn't locate the connector in my 2014. Good thing I had the full kit with the harness, so I just put that one in. This assumes you have the 8.4" display, of course.

Just buy HIR bulbs and while they may not be diamond white, they will be almost twice as bright as OEM with no side effects and the bulbs should last a lot longer than overpriced, overhyped dyed lights like the PIAA and other competitors.

Yes. Just push the starter button once WITHOUT pressing on the brake to put the vehicle into accessory mode. Then you can use the radio and other power accessories in addition to operating the windows.

You should find a menu entry for language in the 'settings'. You should download the owner's manual. It helps.

'They' are clueless in the call center. There will never be an update of this sort for the RE2/RB5 or the 4.3" display radios used in our Journeys. Your 2017 has the same radio as the 2011 models did and this is the last year for it.

Finger error noted . . . . . and corrected.

If you have the 8.4" display it is a plug, activate and play accessory.

Quick answers; 1. No Carplay 2. You are looking at the wrong uConnect radio on the site - the one on the web site is the 8.4A or 8.4AN (the N for navigation). Those weren't even released when your Journey was built, but they aren't used in our vehicles in any case. Post 2010 Journeys are equipped with 8.4 and 8.4N, known as radio types RE2 and RB5 respectively. Edit: Why did I think you have a 2013 Journey? Because I was looking at jkeaton's profile . . . .

What idiot light? My 11 showed the individual pressures as does my '14 . . . . . . the idiot light would only come on wen one of the sensors had a low pressure or low battery condition and comes on one time whenever I swap over to my 'no sensor' winter wheels. When they are on I check them daily using the screen. When I am on winter wheels I check pressure weekly with a very accurate gauge.

He has a CVP with manual seats and the new ones are power (he didn't say whether the passenger one is or not). Are the connectors the same? Is there power for the seats (and what of power heat) - because he has the base model the harness might be different. No matter what, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILE DOING THE WORK.

Start off by looking up the Magnuson Moss warranty act and then find an honest dealer. The Journey (in fact every modern vehicle) is filled with expensive electronics and dealers are by and large poor diagnosticians, so if you plan to hang on to the vehicle it is more than possible you'll make money with an extended warranty, especially if you can score one at a discount - and that means shopping . . . . also noting that if you buy online from out of state you will save any sales taxes that may have otherwise been applicable. Buy or extended warranty from an online FCA vendor and ONLY buy the OEM one - they are available in different durations and to cover different total mileage - and both without deductibles and with a deductible that applies per claim. Price-wise the trick is to solicit a quote from one of the online dealers and then follow through - they'll send you a follow-up every so often and you'll save a further couple of hundred dollars. Note that depending on the age and mileage of your vehicle when you buy te plan Chrysler may require a inspection and the cost could be higher . . . . . .

The real issue is that apparently the engine broke while under their care - you sent it in, supposedly needing a catalytic converter (actually presumably a DPF - Diesel Particulate Filter, based on what you wrote) and they killed the engine while they had it. And the viscosity of the oil notwithstanding, the higher number you see is the oil maintaining thickness at very high temperatures - if you look at many service manuals they give a range of oils based on the ambient temperature in which they are operated - higher numbers for hotter climates. The values they tend to specify today are not in the best interest of the engine, by the way, but rather are there to improve gas mileage. But the viscosity difference alone would not ill the engine. So what they used is probably just fine as long as it meets the 'service grade' specified by the manufacturer since you aren't operating the vehicle in the Antarctic or in the desert in Kuwait. If the oil was truly not intended or diesel use it could impact on things, but breaking a valve is more applicable to a broken timing chain, belt or gear as appropriate for your particular vehicle. If you have been using the wrong oil (as in the wrong service grade, not the slightly higher top viscosity number) and it can be documented that the garage has been putting it in you might well have a case against them - on the other hand if the oil in question is Diesel rated and you've been maintaining the vehicle in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and if your vehicle would normally still be under warranty, then unless they can prove fault they probably have a legal responsibility to fix it at their expense. I can't comment on the laws in Germany, but in some countries (notably the UK) the warranty is indeterminate and if the vehicle doesn't deliver the service one would expect the manufacturer and/or dealer has to make good . . . . . and in North America (again, it may well be different in Germany) it doesn't matter who does the work, so long as it is done properly. Also the manufacturer's warranty may well differ in Europe - the terms and duration of the coverage might be different, but no matter what I would not expect a clogged particulate filter to damage a valve. I will tell you that a boss I once had owned a Jeep hat he sent in for an oil change - the dealer called him up and told him it cost $2,000 because 'something went wrong' and the engine needed to be rebuilt . . . . . that 'something' was that apparently they forgot to put oil in the engine after draining it and the car jockey went for a drive. Needless to say he did not need to pay for the rebuild.

First of all they will not reload your map. They aren't provided the tool and it takes too long because they haven't learned to multitask and it takes almost 2 hours to execute the reload. So they will swap out your radio for one that has been reloaded at some other location. And it will likely crap out again, because radios that HAVE crapped out are more likely susceptible to the memory corruption that occurs. Reloading your own will ultimately save you time.

Your navigator issues can be self-resolved, but even so, given the cost of electronics in the vehicle and the fact that the dealers aren't the best diagnosticians around I bought an extended warranty from the manufacturer - up in Canada we're limited to 7 years max, and that's what I bought.

It is very easy to do if you already have the 8.2 inch display. Less so if you don't. This is my second Journey. I went the Garmin route on the old one, but did the upgrade on this. I also added the backup camera to mine. I find the integration makes a HUGE difference and I have zero regrets.

I believe FCA can only supply complete assemblies. And they are expensive. Check the wrecker network or you can usually find one on eBay for a lot less than new.

If you don't have two rows of buttons on the left ide of the steering wheel you don't have Bluetooth. And no, you can't 'plug your phone' in to either the USB or the aux input for anything other than playing music and such - as a USB device you can control the music player from the touchscreen or steering wheel, though there is some question about whether this works properly with more recent iOS implementations (I use Android phones). The aux jack is no different than an earphone - so you ca play back, but there's no input for a microphone in the connector.