bramfrank

Heat is not the issue - blinding oncoming traffic is. If you must up the output of the stock reflectors buy HIR bulbs.

I'm certain that others will chime in but here's my take. The R/T was the 'top of the line' for Canada in 2011. The issues are that it was the first year for the 3.6 litre engine, which was prone to a misfire condition (that FCA would fix for free and for which there is apparently an extended hidden warranty) and it had the smaller brakes (which had the benefit of being able to for 16" wheels for winter use). If you beat the vehicle the disks would warp, though my '11 never suffered the issue in the 54K miles I owned it. Be aware that the AWD requires that all 4 tires have roughly equal wear and that if you have a flat that requires you change a tire, you likely will be changing 4 of them. If you could buy an extended FACTORY warranty you would be protected against possibly expensive electronic repairs - not that there's a specific history of them, but all modern vehicles have lots of computers and older ones can have corrosion/grounding issues and diagnostics and replacement modules can cost - if it hasn't been rust-protected with a spray inhibitor yet I'd certainly have it done.

You KNOW the answer . . . . people who are too lazy to read the owner's manual and who listen to what salesmen say.

With the information at hand if I had to guess I'd suspect a bad/corroded ground connection.

My first ignore!!!

The handle has a cable connecting it to the latch - it is either disengaged or broken - the dealer probably has a way in. If not, then they or you could wind up chopping through trim to gain access . . . . .

I can't, because the only way I would be able to tell without doing handsprings would be if they embedded the display labels in cleartext in the code, which they seem to not have. You know as much as I do about this.

If it's working to your satisfaction then there's no overriding reason to mess with it since it only impacts on the radio itself and not the navigator. In fact I'm a bit surprised it only offered you a radio update and not one for the navigator.

I'm not saying I have mid 2014 maps on MY unit, just that FCA doesn't supply anything newer. If you ever do have the issue you can simply reload your unit and restore it to operation.

Interesting question . . . . Can anyone who may have a copy send me an image of the directory structure on the DVD?

I'm not sure why you needed to replace ANY tires at 20K miles short of a bad hole or some such - you suggested that this was the case. Your relatively low mileage (I get about ~21 MPG in a 50/50 city/highway environment), so depending on your environment, your mileage could be reasonable, or not - this is not a light vehicle we drive and yours is heavier (by virtue of the AWD and perhaps more if you carry things in it and keep your tank full, for example) coupled to hard/erratic shift sounds to me like you may not be as gentle on the pedal as you could be. Your 'Service Now' started when you replaced the pair of tires - AWD requires that all four be close to each other wear-wise - that's an issue with the style of AWD that many vehicles use today. You can't just change one tire, two or three unless they are all almost new, but you get hit for 4 at a time when you get a non-repairable flat or wear out some, but not all of them. However OEM tires don't come with road hazard warranties and even if they did, you'd get replacements only for the defective tires and not for the others. Your transmission? Mine doesn't shift hard or erratically - period. You mentioned having to 'auto-stick' the vehicle (actually you were 'slap-shifting' or 'stick shifting' because you were not letting it 'auto-shift') and realise that it learns nothing when you manually shift the transmission. And that the algorithms they shoot for are 'best mileage' which has them try to keep the engine RPMs in the 1-2K rpm range and the shifts quick. Again, could you have be being tough on the vehicle? Or perhaps your expectations are unreasonable? The radio: Bad news: The issue with your radio is likely to recur. You will probably get the 'can't unlock maps' issue again at some point since the radio they stuck in when you had it the first time was one that had the problem, was returned to FCA and simply reloaded with maps and firmware and shipped back out without addressing the underlying issue that caused the failure. Be happy they included a year of SiriusXM radio (you get FIVE years of traffic for the nav in the US, by the way). My brother's $60K Lincoln came with 90 days of service. Mapping? I am not aware of ANY of the auto manufacturers that include map updates for any amount of time for their in-dash navigators.

I went back and had a look at your previous post - the person you spoke with at uConnect was wrong, and the information was less than accurate, because they get all their information from scripts. Unless management gives them information to the contrary yours will be one of the very few with problems, or they'll blame an update or some other such nonsense. If your replacement radio is acting up start by doing a full reset - pull one of the battery leads and let the vehicle sit without power for a half hour or so and then reconnect the battery. If that doesn't resolve the issue then have the dealer swap the radio out again.

20 hours ago, Melissa927 said: That would be correct.

The "Head Unit' is known as the TGM in FCA terms. TGM stands for "Telematics Gateway Module" and in addition to being the radio module and CD player it handles the user interface between the vehicle and the driver, controlling, as you know, everything from the power outlet to the heated seats an steering wheel to the air conditioning, Bluetooth and defroster. The nav version adds in the Garmin subsystem (which is unique in that it not only uses satellites for navigation, but also the vehicle compass and input from the vehicle to track location in underground and in situations when GPS reception is difficult. It is as simple as swapping the TGM (and your SiriusXM subscription) if you already have the 8.2" display and a SiriusXM capable radio. It takes about 5 minutes to do and you can do it yourself. But if you buy the TGM new it does cost almost $1800 (and a lot more if you have to pay full retail). Used units tend to sell for between $350 and $1000 which seems like a huge spread, but there are three generations of these things (they pretty much all work the same, sort of, only the later ones support active traffic, however they also have an issue where some of them will corrupt memory and lose their maps, necessitating intervention to get them going again (you can PM me for details). Then there are procurement issues on the 'used' side of the equation; Not all RB5 TGMs are compatible with the Journey and there are no external physical clues as to whether a TGM is nav-equipped or not. Part numbers are all over the map, too and there's no decoder ring. People have discovered that people often have no clue what they are selling - one member here bought THREE units, one after the other and all ostensibly navigation units only to discover that in reality none of them was equipped with the feature. Also, the cheaper ones tend to be the older ones. So if you can locate a compatible nav unit, and if it is working you can drop it into your vehicle and you will have navigation. As it happens, I have a spare unit on my shelf that I bought for when/if my maps got corrupted. Beyond the fact that the unit in my dash has never suffered the corruption issue, I have figured out how to recover affected units and get them back into service, so the spare is now surplus to my needs. You can check the classified section of this forum if you are at all interested in mine. Good luck

A couple of quick options that may useful; 1. Dodge is no longer active in the UK, so contact a UK Jeep dealer and ask them for the proper part number. 2. Dodge IS active in Australia, so you might find it simpler to get the part numbers for the OEM reflectors from a dealer down under. It should be simple enough to find an e-mail address and to contact them by e-mail and ask for the part number and a quote for the right drive reflectors without telling them you are planning to use them in the UK. If you want them to be somewhat brighter than stock you can always buy a full set of HIR bulbs and fit them before installing the new reflectors in your vehicle.

The 4.3S (Sirius) radio is supposed to be standard on the 2016 SXT - you might want to have a chat with Chrysler customer support over the discrepancies. Why not compare the rest of your build sheet against the feature list for the model?

The RB5/RB2 are great infotainment systems even if they do have some weaknesses, including the fact that MP3 music sources won't display embedded album art unless they are included in the Gracenotes database installed on the unit and THAT hasn't been updated since 2011. It also have some trouble with the latest versions of iPhones (I use Android and previously WIndows phones and Blackberries, all of which seem to work perfectly, including support for SMS). On the plus side the RB5 is one of the very, very few consumer vehicle navigation systems that does 'dead reckoning' navigation, which means that it doesn't require a satellite signal to maintain your location on the map, which works great in tunnels, garages and most importantly in 'GPS Canyons' of the downtown cores of most major cities where the satellite signals can't be directly received and bounce off buildings proving erroneous location reports and 'lost signal' messages. The only real change in the user interface of the RB5 from the first and second, to the third version is that the icons have changed. As well, there is different firmware for each of the versions of the radio, so if you plan to self-update you'd need to be able to source the correct files from the uconnect web site - so knowing the VIN of the source vehicle becomes more than useful, since putting the wrong firmware into a radio can 'brick' it. Where the real differences are have to do with the capabilities of (and an issue with) the product. The first version of the radio in it's original firmware releases does not require a security code meaning that you wouldn't need to solicit an unlock code to get it running - not deadly I any case, since it can be generated by the dealer. It would be based on a combination of the serial number of the radio and the VIN of the vehicle into which it is going. In any case the latest versions of the firmware, even those or the oldest devices DO implement an unlock code, so ultimately you'd need one if yours gets (or has gotten) updated. More important, in my opinion is that the older nav units don't do 'XM traffic' which in my opinion and because I live in Montreal, which is 'Orange Cone Land' with something like 500 active road construction sites and major arterial reconstruction and configuration is important to me even if I DID sit in a traffic jam last night at 11PM because they shut down an expressway for service and the closure never showed up on the unit. On the other hand traffic is a subscription service, so you'd need to pay for it. It does, however provide coverage in a lot more places than the traditional FM SCA service that stand-alone Garmin navigators do. Traffic services are officially not available outside of the US, though the data for Canada is transmitted by XM (go figure), On the other hand, the older nav radios seem to be a lot less subject to the dreaded 'can't unlock maps' problem that plagues some of the devices. That's good, I suppose, since I've never put together a recovery package for those units and to date no one's actually asked. There are lots of potential pitfalls to buying an RB5 upgrade, however. The vendors out there often have no idea what they are selling and in one case a member contacted me to discuss his woes - he bought THREE different radios, each of which supposedly was a navigation radio and they ALL turned out to be basic RE2 base 8.4 radios (no navigator). Unfortunately there are a myriad of part numbers out there and there's no magic decider ring, nor any sense to be made from the part numbers that would allow you to determine what the particular radio can do - they all have the same physical chassis and the same connectors so there are no external visual clues. I happen to have my spare radio (one of the latest models) available for sale if that was a direction you might want to go in - it is listed in the classified section here. Whatever you decide to do I wish you luck.

If you want to know if the vehicle has DRLs from the factory look up the vehicle build sheet. Go to the following web site, then choose 'equipment listing' and enter your VIN. http://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.html

A new record . . . . more than 8 years to get an answer . . . .

Assuming your firmware isn't already up to date, you can do it yourself in the comfort of your driveway - all you need is a USB key. https://www.driveuconnect.com/software-update/

Mine doesn't. I have my mailbox key on the vehicle's keyring and when I get out to collect my mail it starts to chime. When I get back into the vehicle and close the door it stops. Both my '11 and the current Journey operate the same way.

Standard wheel alignment is biased slighty left to compensate for right lane driving on crowned roads.

Does anything else that is supposed to be controlled by the accessory power (like the front power outlet) follow the problem? If so it might simply be a bad relay.

The IIHS doesn't set the rules and, to be honest I have zero issues with the factory lighting (and I drive unlit country roads at night), though I figured that for the $75 it cost I might as well up the light output with the HIRs. First answer is that no, they don't, because there is very little variance with the 9005/9006 bulbs. Precision placement of the filament is a key component of the bulb spec. As to the amount of 'glare', be aware that the absolute amplitude of any glare you see in the photos is a lot lower than what appears in yours because the cameras stop down the image to capture reasonable light levels, which is why I wrote that any scatter from your bulbs are brighter than any from mine. In other words, the photos look the same, but the aperture of my lens was wider than yours, so what you see in my shots is actually less bright than in yours. I got mine from candlepowerinc and honestly have no idea which brand they supplied. I replaced all four with HIR1s and HIR2s

Interesting . . for almost 2 years we listened to DHH3 complain about how incompatible the unit was . . . . . .