bramfrank

Actually, you need a downgrade - the uConnect software does not support the current iOS versions (9 or 10) well at all. I run a Galaxy S7 which works fine - and I understand older iPhones work reasonably well. You should contact customer support and complain. Maybe they'll actually do something about it if enough people contact them.

It isn't a 'possible' data corruption issue. It is a definite 'data corruption issue'. I am not aware of any newer maps than the mid 2014 ones available from FCA for the navigator, and updating (or replacing) them using their media is a $250 'hit or miss' proposition because the DVD player often goes out of alignment - the player is good enough for music and video, since they don't require perfect decoding to work, but data for updating is another story. The radio version requires that you access the dealer menu, but the supposedly important one is the navigator version - if you have CTP16/6.22 (which you can see as the nav function boots up) then you have the latest radio firmware, since CTP16 requires the radio to be at 15.09.D1 . . . .not that the latest versions solve the problem that leads to the 'can't unlock maps' issue.

I'm not impressed. Your stock bulbs have a MUCH more even distribution of light and you do have more bleed and scatter with the HIDs - look at that dark area below the cutoff with the HIDs and then the bleed that starts above it on the left side, which is perfectly set up to blind oncoming traffic (and, of course that scatter is going to be brighter with the higher luminance of the HIDs) though the pattern is, in general almost decent. That there is a cap only means that oncoming traffic isn't looking straight into the light source but ANY part of the plasma ball that is outside the focal point of the reflector will contribute to scatter and result in improperly aimed light which is why you have those hot spots and scatter that appears well above the reflector cutoff. I went with HIRs - they are brighter than stock, but have no impact whatsoever on the pattern because the filament is in the same location and is the same size and those in the 9005 and 9006 bulbs. Here are the low and high beam images from my phone for comparison - fogs are off, since they have nothing to do with the headlights:

Not sure what your photos are actually showing, though it seems like a high and low HID shot - for a proper comparison your need a before and after shot . . . and if you do that you'll find that your light with proper filament bulbs is evenly distributed across the plane with a very sharp cutoff and no significant hot spots. If you have more light 'at the edges' then the beam is not the same, and the photos show a fair amount of scatter above the cutoff in the photos - that 'at the edge' light and scatter is what blinds oncoming traffic - for the record, the plasma ball in a HID bulb is a lot larger than the light source in the filament bulbs, putting part of that source outside of the focal point of the reflector which is WHY there's all that scatter - yours may well be one of the better conversions, but it's still not friendly to oncoming traffic and is not street legal in North America..

Fiat Chrysler Automobiles . . . . . the company that built your vehicle.

That site is a dealer selling Chrysler's plans - there are several out there and if you fill in a query and then ignore it you will likely be offered discounts from the initial prices. There are a lot of expensive electronics in the vehicle and if you plan to keep it a factory warranty is well worth considering - even if you don't, the warranty can make selling your vehicle easier and you may get more money. Whatever you do, if you are buying an extended warranty make certain you get an official OEM Chrysler one unless you want to be put through hoops and have your claims cut back, be charged for diagnostics and be given used or jobber parts. BTDT.

The vehicle requires that you press the brake pedal to shift out of park - the solenoid that enables that is likely what you are hearing.

That sort of thing is covered in the owners manual . . . . . The visual and audible indicators are controlled in the vehicle settings, accessible on the touchscreen.

The reason is that DRLs try to run the bulbs at half brightness and HIDs are 'all or nothing' devices, they can't be dimmed. Here's a link to the bulbs and to the trimming instructions: http://store.candlepower.com/hirsponeseto.html http://store.candlepower.com/mohirbuba.html

First of all you can't put HIDs into the high beams if you have DRLs. Second, the conversion is itself not street legal Third, unless your conversion has projectors (and I gather it doesn't) then your beam spread will be less than optimal even if you do get it to work and you will be blinding oncoming traffic. My suggestion is that you do it right, or not at all - if you want a plug-and-play solution that is brighter than stock and street legal and works in your vehicle may I suggest you install HIR (as opposed to HID) bulbs - you will need to trim one of the tabs on each bulb slightly, but they are almost twice as bright as stock, last almost twice as long and use the same power that the OEM Halogen bulbs do. Cost? About US$70 for a set of 4 from candlepowerinc.com

Ground clearance is exactly the same for all sizes of wheel because the sidewalls of the tires are taller to compensate. But you have a lot more 'give' with a taller sidewall, which makes the smaller wheel more forgiving from the perspective of ride..

The retail carded Philips bulbs aren't true HIRs - there's a whole discussion thread out there on the topic if you're an engineer. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?243470-New-Philips-HIR2-scrutinized

The appropriate solution is to fit HIR bulbs - they have the same spread and color, but are 40% brighter than stock for the same wattage. There is a benefit in that the life of an HIR1 and HIR2 bulb is about double that of a conventional halogen bulb. Info on HIR bulbs: http://store.candlepower.com/9011hir.html One key on the base of HIR bulbs has to be trimmed to fit into the 9005/9006 receiver. There are templates for this and it is simple to do. I bought mine from candlepowerinc.com The have a deal for a set of 4 bulbs for $70 . . . . . http://store.candlepower.com/hirsponeseto.html A template for trimming the bulb base can be found on this page: http://store.candlepower.com/mohirbuba.html

As to whether they replaced the engine or not, that should be documented in the work order from the repair. I would contact Chrysler directly - I can't believe that they covered the supposed replacement engine or repair (whichever they did) for only 2K miles. But the 2.4 is a workhorse and should last a heck of a lot longer, unless it's been abused.

There IS a recall (R65) - it is ineffective, but it exists.

First of all, once the vehicle is running you can take the FOB and lose it and aside from complaining about the FOB not being present there would be no problems. Mine also does this every so often - I discovered that if I lock and unlock the door using the switch on the arm ret and then open and close the door it works fine again. it could be another problem, but that's what works for me.

It depends on the type of roads, the type of traffic and how hard you push the vehicle . . . Mine gets between 7.7 and 16 L/100KM, depending on the situation, though I could probably push it further at either end of the range without trying very hard - I average slightly better than 12/100 with my particular mix of driving.

The 'mess up' only affects the nav detailed maps function (and can be field-resolved). You can still see major routes on the basemap, not that it's in any way useful. But you can still use the rest of the unit's features. It's perfectly safe to sell the old radio.

If you buy the factory specified tire size the circumference will be within 1% of the factory 19 inch ones. I'd look it up for you but I'm using my phone.

They're all RB5 radios, but there are three generations of them. If yours came from a 2013 or later it is likely the most recent one and that is the one that's most susceptible to the 'can't unlock maps' problem.

The 'glitch' you refer to (the symptom being that you have no access to mapping in the navigator with a message on screen of 'can't unlock maps') has not been resolved by the R65 recall - lots of radios have failed after they've been updated, though it is something that can be fixed in the field if you know how.

Congrats. Yes, the upgrade is simple to do if you start from the right place (RE2) and have a good, working unit to swap in. But you're actually quite lucky that you got what you expected. I've had interaction with several people who received non-nav radios for their money even though the part vendors claimed they were RB5s and the part numbers implied this as well, in one case three in a row before he gave up. Which generation radio did you get?

Unlike some radios, the one in our vehicles doesn't 'forget' that the code was entered when power is removed - the code is stored in non-volatile memory, so the radio would have to have 'glitched' for it to need to be re-unlocked.

I just posted a reply to someone's post and I wanted to edit it, but could not - no edit button ???? Also the display format is 'different' in that the reply is in a gray box indented from the original post. There are options to reply and to report, but not to edit. Yet this post does allow editing. The other posy is referred to as a 'status' rather than a reply in the topic.

For the fun of it I had a quick look at the 2009 owner's manual and there's no mention of a cover there. My '11 didn't have one and my '14 doesn't. So I suspect the no Jouney has ever had a cover. In the end it really depends on the design of said cover . . . if it is just a disc then it'll probably catch the wind and act like a sail and be covered in mud and such on the upper side and if it'd made of plastic it will almost certainly break over time. If it is a true cover it will act like a bowl and fill with water - even if they give it a drain hole or two, because they'll ultimately block with mud, leaves and stones. And the most important reason is that this would cost FCA money and serve no useful purpose. FCA (or any car manufacturer for that matter) is looking to reduce costs, no matter how tiny a savings, as long and the basic reliability isn't compromised. A cover over the spare isn't going to provide any significant cosmetic, reliability or performance benefit. This would be one of the fist things to go at the initial product planning meetings. I strongly suspect that if you want one you are going to have to make it yourself.