bramfrank

Would you want one? Assuming one could be fitted between the hook and the tire, if it was plastic it wouldn't last very long and would probably trap moisture, causing the tire to rot.

Has the dealer tried another new fob? And if it isn't the fob, it'll probably be the receiver. I suspect the fobs may well be the problem because the phantom low battery signal only shows up on one of the two you have. I could, of course be wrong and it might be a bad receiver . . . . .

It IS different, which is why I went into detail.

When you say 'uConnect', do you mean Bluetooth? Because uConnect is actually the radio and air conditioning module. If you meant Bluetooth, unfortunately it isn't practical to add Bluetooth to the vehicle - there's too much to change (rear view mirror, steering wheel controls, clockspring, add in the BT module) and the wiring for it isn't there. My suggestion would be to do what I did on my last DJ, which also didn't have Bluetooth; I bought a higher end Garmin navigator (Nuvi 3790 at the time) that had voice command and Bluetooth and installed it above the rear view mirror and ran the power wiring down the right side window pillar and tapped a switched power source. To make it work I simply used the key phrase (which I changed to something that would never come up in conversation) and manually turned the radio volume down when I went to use the navigator and then back up again after any calls - it gave me traffic as well. It did the job for me and since my current DJ has both Bluetooth and Navigation my kids borrow it when they borrow their mother's car.

Check the settings for the locks . . . . make sure 'unlock all doors 1st press' is selected.

I see them on the site for $35: https://www.amazon.com/JOURNEY-BUTTON-KEYLESS-REMOTE-CLICKER/dp/B00DUGSOJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475678376&sr=8-1&keywords=dodge+journey+key+fob

Call your dealer, but he'll be clueless and the FCA support people are either just as clueless, or are refusing to admit they have issues for whatever reason. The problem, as you know is that one of the map files is corrupt, likely due to a hardware design issue and the recall, which only updated the firmware in the unit, but did nothing about the hardware was a useless (and expensive) placebo. Reloading/updating the maps will being the unit back to life. But, if you just bought the vehicle from a dealer, shouldn't the selling dealer have given you at least a short warranty? Let him fix the problem this time..

What happened that it is locked?

Well, if you want to be part of a transmission go ahead and be a clutch. But if you don't have the dexterity, you'd be a clutz. Press the driver side temperature 'up' and 'down' buttons simultaneously, along with the rear defrost button and hold them all for about 10 seconds.

Simplest answer: The ONLY way to properly convert to HID from other technologies is to install a full projector setup to replace whatever light source may be in the vehicle. LED conversions typically suck. HIRs work well when you aren't willing to do the mechanical work necessary for a proper technology conversion. Note that they are 3000K lights, so you won't be getting that 'blue dazzle' that some seem to feel is a requirement. If you can't do it properly, then your best bet is to not do it at all.

You were being treated in a truly condescending manner and/or the CSR you dealt with is a complete idiot. And I'm amazed to still be hearing about this after 6 years. By now you'd think they'd have figured it out because it is NOT rocket science. Let's start with: 1. There is no place 'in the engine' for any volume of gas - fuel flows from the tank through the pump and to the injectors. 2. The specification is for what's known as the 'dry capacity' of the gas tank - if there was indeed 'place in the engine' for gas it would be in addition to the tank capacity because the fuel is pressurised by the fuel pump IN the tank - the engine couldn't use any fuel 'in the engine' because once the tank was empty there would be no pressure to drive the fuel through the injectors. 3. Note that the capacity specification presumes that there is no fuel at all in the tank, which can never happen, unless there's a hole, the tank has been removed and drained or it's a brand, spanking new tank. So unless the pump is inaccurate you can never pump in the entire 20.5 or however many gallons are specified for your vehicle (AWD vehicle tanks are slightly different from FWD, by the way). 4. If you slowly top up the tank to the point where the fuel level remains at filler's neck, then the tank is full. Now, it is NOT a good thing to run the tank down to the point where the vehicle stalls too often for a couple of good reasons: 1. The fuel in the tank is used to cool the fuel pump. 2. Once the fuel level gets down near the bottom of the tank, the pump may well start to suck in any crud that has settled. There is a strainer in the pump, but you don't want it to get blocked up if you can avoid it and you don't want the pump to overheat either - those are a relatively expensive repairs, but for the purpose of characterising the issue it shouldn't hurt anything to run the diagnostics. There is no way to completely drain the tank in any case, since the inlet is slightly above the tank floor, this in part to minimise the likelihood of the fuel pump ingesting any crud - but also because the pickup would need to be outside of the tank to do this - so there's likely to be (and I have not done any scientific measurements, so this is just a WAG) a gallon or so that is left in the tank when the vehicle stalls out from fuel starvation . . . . Note that even with a normally operating fuel gauge you have up to 75 miles or even more of range (depending on driving conditions) before it stalls out, so when you fill normally there is likely to be a couple or so gallons of fuel in there above the fuel pump's inlet. Now, there are only two possible explanations for why you can't pump in more than the 14 gallons or so of fuel your report once the gauge reads empty: 1. The fuel gauge is not reporting the level properly - and note that for the vast majority of us the gauge DOES work reasonably accurately. 2. The fuel tank is deformed and simply does not have the capacity to hold as much fuel as specified. There's a third one, though it doesn't affect capacity, just how fast you can fill the tank - and that is: 3. Because the filler pipe might be kinked. It could always be a combination of these three, of course. The way to figure out which it likely is requires experimentation and a tiny bit of logic : 1. Fill a gas canister with a known amount of fuel - one or two accurately pumped gallons of fuel should suffice - and put that in the vehicle. 2. Note the mileage and fuel gauge position when the 'low fuel' light comes on. 3. Continue to drive the vehicle until the engine starts to sputter, pull over and switch off the engine - try not to be too far from a quality gas station that has reasonably accurate pumps. 4. Note the gauge position, mileage and reset the fuel economy gauge. 5. Pour all the fuel in the gas canister into the tank, drive to the gas station and fill the tank TO THE BRIM, topping it up until you see fuel in the neck that does not flow down the tube when you stop filling. 6. Note the amount of fuel you pumped in, add the amount of fuel that was in the a canister to the total and subtract the amount of fuel that was used to get to the station based on the economy gauge readout and the distance travelled from the 'sputter point'. By doing this you will have characterised the amount of 'reserve range and the relative positions of the fuel gauge when it goes into reserve and when the vehicle is out of usable fuel. - If the gauge position at the 'sputter point' is too high then it is a perception issue. - If you get a number like 14 gallons the problem is the tank itself. - If you pumped in 18-20 gallons of gas then it is going to be the fuel level sender and/or the device (known as an A to D converter) that converts the sender's data to a value that the vehicle's BCM uses - the part may actually be IN the BCM, but that's just a detail. - If you can't fill the tank at the pump's normal speed, then likely the filler is crimped or kinked . . . . . but you should still be able to fill the tank, albeit slowly. If the pipe is bent or crimped it may also be a sign that the tank is deformed. And with the information gleaned from this test you should have the information necessary to get the problem resolved. Of course it could be that you aren't running the tank down to the bottom 1/8 of a 20 gallon tank being about 2.5 gallons - add that to the 'unusable' gallon or two and pumping 14 or so gallons in because you used none of the reserve might well be normal. I don't know why FCA hasn't done this (or perhaps they have and determined that the cost to repair is high enough that they simply don't want to admit it). Please let us know what you determine.

I don't recall seeing anything like that . . . . what section was it described in? Always looking to increase the knowledge base.

You'll find detailed instructions at the start of the backup camera installation manual. Link here: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861161.pdf

My suggestions, in no specific order: Bad door switch? Chaffed wires? Bad controller? Bad battery?

I don't understand. I see everything.

I second that advice - if you contact the finance company they may be amenable to an arrangement - if they come in and repo you can be certain your various insurance and credit instruments will be negatively affected (and your insurance and any interest rates go up).

No. I have had occasional hiccups, like the half day and 10 starts where the screen was blanked out altogether - no display at all, but the touch part worked ad the radio played and the Bluetooth was functional - and it wasn't just the backlight. But it came back towards the end of the day and hasn't happened again . . . . The reality is that a car today is a networked array of computers powered by a rather poor power source and mediocre code and comprised of components built by the lowest cost bidder. That's a tough environment in which to chase long term reliability, which is why I always counsel people to get extended warranties from the manufacturer.

I suspect he either got it sorted or he dumped the vehicle, since it's been more than 2 years.

No. They probably have to change the screen. However if you have a warranty, why not just bring it to the dealer and let him deal with the problem?

Sounds more like warped rotors or rotors that are contaminated to me.

Likely the digitiser is dead/locked up/unplugged. You can try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and reconnecting it to see if that helps, but if not you might consider opening the dash and checking to ensure all plugs are in tightly. If that doesn't solve it and assuming you don't have an extended warranty then your best bet is likely to be eBay or a scrap yard..

It doesn't much matter what WE think. It's ultimately how much the dealer will accept for the vehicle and whether YOU think it is reasonable. Honestly? Knocking 20% or so off the vehicle price to me seems not unreasonable. But you can and should validate the pricing for yourself because everyone can always get a better deal than you can . . . . until you tell them to get it for you. Then there are regional disparities to consider. If you think the price is too high, then walk away. If you can live with the price, then . . . . . . Yes, there are extra costs associated with bringing in a vehicle for you. So, call around to the other dealers in the area to find out where they're getting it from and deal direct with that dealership.

Interesting . . . . I use an S7 these days, but had an S5 (which at the time was running Lollipop) before and neither exhibited any such issues, though the S5 has since been updated to Marshmallow (Androiid 6) and has not been tried since that happened. If I actually remember tomorrow maybe I'll get out an adapter, move the SIM over and power up the S5 to see if it works - and if it works for my vehicle it ought to work for yours.

Not if the vehicle is in neutral . . . . . otherwise you have to free both wheels to avoid running into the parking pin.

Buy a new OEM alternator and you'll probably get 6 years out of that. You can probably find a good used one from a scrapped newer Journey which will be a lot better.