bramfrank

Let's start by saying that his vehicle likely didn't have R65 applied to it.

If you don't have the nav icon, you don't have a nav unit. No sales codes required, though there are for the backup camera, once you get it installed. If you have the nav icon but no lock, the nav may not be working or you don't have a functional satellite antenna. I thought R/Ts came with 8.2 & SiriusXM standard? At least they do in Canada.

That's the most recently released TGM firmware, and the version specified for the R65 recall for nav-equipped vehicles - it's been out since May 28, 2015 - about 15 months now, so it isn't just '16 R/Ts. You can always try downgrading to the previous release, which was 15.03.B2 or the one before that (14.27.B5). I have them on my hard drive if you want to try and don't mind assuming the risk inherent in flashing these devices.

According to the NAPA web site, the filter you want is the 47526 (Platinum), 27526 (Proselect) or 7526 (Gold). The 57526 does come up there as an alternative, though manufactured by WIX, rather than Napa branded. If it was my vehicle I'd use it.

I know you can do that, but Americans get their traffic for free for five years and they have access to Travelink while we don't, which kind of sucks, is all . . . .

The 'reboot' procedure often resolves problems and, aside from having to reset your clock, has no side effects. The 'micro dropout' issue was resolved with a 2011 update. So it is not likely to be your issue. Check with the uConnect web site to see if there are any downloadable updates available for your radio by entering your VIN: https://www.driveuconnect.com/software-update/

No, I haven't. I wasn't aware it could be listed on Amazon. . . . . I could also put it on eBay I suppose, but these guys all have fees and while I'd like to move it out, I am in no rush to sell it and I abhor paying fees - either losing money or costing the buyer extra.

The new ones are even nicer . . . AND you'd get the big brakes.

If you like the colors, you'll LOVE the temperature and pressure gauges on the newer vehicles. You can always trade yours in . . . . . .

With respect, that last statement requires qualification . . . . First of all, take no warranty unless it is provided by the manufacturer. Secondly, you want a full bumper-to-bumper warranty. Third, decide whether you want a deductible per claim or not. Fourth, decide how long that warranty should be keeping in mind that a 5 year warranty actually provides 2 extended years on everything that isn't the power train for vehicles sold pre 2016 because before 2016 you had 3/36 5/60 coverage. If you are in the US buy it from one of the online dealers - solicit a quote and DO NOT buy it right away - they tend to come back and offer a discount of about a hundred dollars after a few weeks . . . . . . if you buy in state you will be paying sales tax, something else to consider.

www.techauthority.com is the official source for FCA manuals and they haven't produced a printed service manual in years, though nothing stops you from buying the disc and printing it out yourself.

It isn't likely to be do-able without faking out the system to allow the 2014 and later firmware to be loaded.

THAT's interesting. Canadian units supposedly don't get traffic, according to Sirius, no matter what the manual may say about five years' traffic service included, because Sirius doesn't offer traffic in Canada except on a test basis with Ford and Mercedes. Having said that the traffic coverage is much more complete than Garmin's FM service, I must say.

One update is for the radio firmware and the other is for the navigator firmware - both are incorporated in the TGM (a fancy term for 'radio module'). And yes, according to FCA policy you have to get a new radio, not that the old one can't be recovered nor the new one any different than the old - in fact it won't be 'new' either, it will be 'remanufactured'. Beyond this, Garmin is wrong (then again their telephone agents are usually wrong even about products that they manufacture, let alone ones manufactured by Panasonic). Your dealer is an idiot and the OEM bumper to bumper extended warranties absolutely DO cover the electronics. R65 was ONLY about the GPS, which is why it only applies to vehicles equipped with the GPS package. Of course it doesn't solve the problem, since we've had reports here of units that were 'recalled' (all they do is update the two firmware packages for the radio and navigator to the current 15.09.D1 and CTP16 respectively) including your own getting the 'can't unlock maps' message again. If FCA is prone to reimbursing people after their warranties expire then I suspect that the owner information web site won't be where you go to ask for it. I do wish you luck, however.

The Bluetooth module is likely defective, as dhh3 suggested. Yours won't be the first. It isn't a cheap part, but maybe you can find one in a yard or on ebay.

uConnect is the radio. I assume that you are referring to the Bluetooth? if so, what exactly doesn't work and in what way? Is the Bluetooth grayed out when it doesn't work or does everything seem to be working (menus and so on) but you are simply unable to connect at times? Have you tried other phones?

Don't waste your time. Those are firmware files you downloaded, not maps. Your maps are corrupted.

It would be nice if verified members were able to delete their posts . . . . . whether because they were inadvertent duplicates or there was a change-of-heart about the content . . . .

One issue came up today with a new member who ran into an issue reported as 'character limit exceeded', which I suspect is a 'feature' of the board to prevent a spammer from posting long rambling nonsensical posts. I further gather that after making some requisite number of posts (5?) the limit is removed automatically. This can be frustrating to new members and is probably not a defense against any dedicated spammer in any case, so I would suggest that this 'featue' might be removed, or that it be tied to manual approval as part of the membership authentication process, i.e. NO posting allowed until a moderator approves a mandatory manual request PM perhaps.

That's what the error message says. The board software probably limits the length of new members' posts the first few times - something to comment on in the appropriate section of the board - which I think I will do next . . . . . And, unfortunately there is no way to delete a post, though you can edit them down - maybe you can add in the missing text in the opening one now that the limit seems to have been lifted?

No snarkiness intended, but it's that way because it's defective . . . . . and to answer the second question; no, there is no way to have dynamic guide lines - I have vehicles that do it both ways and personally don't miss the 'feature' at al on the Journey And while you are at the dealer you might want to ask that he make a product suggestion, which is that the camera should not switch off immediately on shifting out of reverse - I think it should stay on until the vehicle is shifted back to drive or into Park - or there might be a timer, a parameter that could be adjusted in the settings screen.

When I read the opening post I decided to visit the NHTSA web site to see whether this is a common issue or not, since I don't recall reading about it here or anywhere else, for that matter. That site is a real hoot, by the way. So many of the complaints are clearly classifiable as 'failure to read' and 'unreasonable expectations'. It is apparently not unheard of, the most recent complaint for a '15 being posted 2 days ago, perhaps by the OP? The consequences of the power outage seem to often be catastrophic, because owners don't understand that without vacuum the power brakes are 'manual' and require serious effort - and the same applies to steering. The dealer may well not be in a position to resolve the problem, because an intermittent issue that leaves no failure codes is almost impossible to diagnose. The key may be to try and replicate the conditions and settings . . . . but I suspect this will turn out to be a loose connection *somewhere* . . . . and THAT is the problem, because there are a lot of *somewhere* places in modern CANbus vehicles. That is one reason to get extended warranties FROM THE MANUFACTURER for any newer vehicle. But get it on the record and try and be as complete as possible in generating your service request. You might also want to peruse the NHTSA web site so you are prepared to deal with the 'this is the first time it's ever happened' retort that is likely to be returned.

Depending on WHICH extended warranty package you bought ('bumper to bumper' or simply power train) and who is underwriting it ( I hope is was an OEM package from Dodge/FCA direct) you may not have full coverage. On the other hand, it doesn't cost $3,400 to fix the GPS and it doesn't need to be replaced, that is simply Chrysler policy. The problem would seem to be that there are certain radios that are susceptible to memory corruption. When they swap out your radio they will install a 'refurbished' one. It is most likely to be one of those with the issue, since that's how they get them to refurbish in the first place and all they do is reload the unit with software and maps and ship them back out, never addressing the underlying issue.. Beyond this, there is a recall (R65, for reference) that applies to your vehicle, whether you have an extended warranty or not - it would seem to have been applied in June . . . but clearly was not 'successful'. All repairs, whether recall or not are guaranteed in any case. Your dealer's an idiot.

I'm running 10 on my main machine and use IE, Edge, Chrome and Maxthon interchangeably and the new forum software is orders of magnitude better than the old and it NEVER crashes. Do a proper registry check and uninstall, then reinstall Chrome if that doesn't work.

If you want to know whether it was truly dry all you need to do is know how much oil you added to get it to the 'full' line and subtract that from the engine capacity. If there was no 'oil' light the obvious questions are: 1. Why not? Doesn't it come one with the ignition and before the engine starts? Maybe the low oil was simply unelated to the problem and something else caused the noise. 2. What did the garage say about the fact that there was no indication of a low oil condition when he found that the dipstick was dry? You may be able to get 50,000 miles or more out of it even with the noisy engine. It depends on what's actually making the noise. I don't disagree with the sentiment regarding not using a dealer; but the mechanic you choose has to be good AND honest. That combination is less common than it should be. Good luck.