bramfrank

1. You have an RE2 8.4 - we don't get the 'A' in the Journey 2. You cannot edit the canned text messages 3. There is no screen mirroring - if you want nav on screen you will need to change the radio module and add in the OEM nav or do something drastic and try to implement a 3rd party solution 4. The SD slot can only recognise a 32 gig card. The USB slot may have larger capacity, but I doubt it. It DOES recognise my 64 gig iPod. The dealer menu is fairly useless except for downgrading firmware and checking which SiriusXM subscriptions you have - there was an engineering menu separately accessible in the early radios (there are three versions in the field that work in the second generation Journeys) with the original firmware. It's been removed and is no longer available. Edit: While it is theoretically possible to use the voice recognition in your phone to dictate messages, there seems to be a procedural issue - the Bluetooth doesn't open the channel when you'd expect it to, possibly because Android may not be using the HFP profile for voice recognition - or, more likely the radio can't open the HFP profile unless a button is pressed while a call is in progress, something that is not the case with composing messages.

I do a straight back-to-front only rotation with every switch from winter to summer tires and back again - the tires on both the old and on the present Journey have worn evenly and no re-balancing has been required. Since I do the swap myself I know that the nuts are properly torqued and I maintain a cold tore pressure at 1 pound above spec,

eBay is likely your best bet. Alternatively, you can check scrap yards.

No, you can get the blacktop package on the R/T in the US this year.

In North America there is a legal requirement for the manufacturer to make parts available for (I believe it to be) ten years from the date of last manufacture. I'm not aware of what the penalty for non-compliance may be, but it's just wrong that they can't get parts for a 6 year old vehicle where the manufacturer is still in business.

There's no TPS sensor in the space saver spare. It may be a failing 7 year old sensor.

Quick answer: yes.

As far as anyone knows, you can't stick the 'A' series radios into the Journey. They are completely different, and even more expensive.

bump

But only for calls that he makes, not for calls he receives . . . . and the volume control is common to both processes.

He said it works when he originates calls, so not likely to be the volume control setting.

He said it was the last year they made it in the US before transferring manufacture to Mexico.

I have holes too - I thought it was just FCA being cheap - are there supposed to be things there? DO I need to go by the dealer and look at a lot full of vehicles now?

While I've seen batteries do all sorts of strange things, usually they don't cause the car to shut down - the battery may be getting old and may (or may not) be due for replacement, but if it caused the problem I'd have to say that it was due to the voltage being too low during the engine cranking - ad that low voltage would have glitched the computer . . . . Start by resetting the vehicle by disconnecting the battery wire at the jump terminal and leaving it off for 30 minutes. If the problem recurs, the usual best way to begin is with the cheap and obvious . . . . like the battery - you're going to need a new one at some point anyway. Note, of course that these are just my impressions from a long distance from where you are, based only on your quick explanation and without having done any formal diagnostics..

If the passenger has a fob the doors will try to unlock and the flashers will flash . . . . . .

I agree with dhh3 - I can't hurt to reset the vehicle with a battery disconnect - but I personally have my doubts that the transmission controller (rather than the transmission itself) caused the problem, though, being a computer it probably locked up with the power glitch, which is why it worked after the restart.

Accessing the battery isn't all that hard . . . and in however many miles in a tough environment (welcome to Canada) I have been lucky enough not to have suffered any of the gremlins described with either of my Journeys. Having said that, the only glitch to date on my current vehicle has been on 3 occasions when the vehicle would not start ("no FOB detected") and pressing the FOB against the sensor didn't get the vehicle to start; Operating the door locks and then opening and closing the driver door solved that each time. However, for those with them, reports are that those electronic rust inhibitors don't work except as a device to generate profits for the dealers that sell them. From a corrosion resistance perspective it is much more effective to get your vehicle rustproofed by having it sprayed annually - it protects all of the exposed electrical connections, sound-deadens the vehicle and actually works well where it has been sprayed (which means that if the roof pillars start to rust, you'll know why). Anything that is powered on continuously can eventually drain the battery anyway - it is much better to keep your accessories on the switched side of the vehicle. Often people will leave their vehicles for extended periods with chargers and navigators plugged into unswitched outlets . . . . those things draw power too - and that can lead to a discharge condition. Some of the reports in this thread seem to describe issues with bad cells (bad batteries) and one seemed to have been a bad alternator, based on the symptoms, admittedly heard second-hand and without any access to the vehicle or the service report. Things do happen. That doesn't exonerate the vehicle design, but a dealer telling you to remove the memory stick from the dash ought to be told off. And any dealer that has replaced more than 2 batteries during the warranty period has to have his feet held to the fire - pay the bill then sue him and Chrysler jointly in small claims court for the cost of the repairs as this is clearly either a latent defect or shoddy workmanship. You are entitled to get fair use from the vehicle and if something has been fixed a number of times without success some states have lemon laws - I prefer the UK rules which simply let you dump the problem at the seller's feet if the item doesn't deliver the intended service. Branded car batteries typically carry 3 year 100%, then 4 more years of pro-rated warranties when bought aftermarket - if you had bought those replacement batteries over the counter in the parts department what warranty would you have received? So what difference does it really make WHO bought those replacement batteries? They ought to be covered.

Ignore him. His mother dropped him on his head when he was a baby and he's never been right since . . . . . So, just cruising along and shutdown? The weird part is that it restarted by itself . . . . I'd have expected it to have required a manual restart. This is not an easy one to diagnose . . . . when it restarted was the check engine light on? If it was, then if you'd been able to read the code you may have gotten a clue. Code readers can be bought in the orient for little money and if the light was on it might prove to be a good investment.

In late 2012 FCA started using bigger rotors and calipers on the Journey. This was a response to complaints that the brakes were too small and would warp - interesting enough the factory brakes on my 2011 Journey were still good when I traded it at 54,000 miles - so it is likely partially a driver thing and the luck of the draw. Note that you would need to change the rotors, calipers and brakes to upgrade. If you have 16 inch wheels you will also need to change them and the tires that are on them. There is a post somewhere on the board, complete with photos of the conversion.

I dump it into one of the cup holders.

I still think it is likely to be bad gas.

That supposed price makes no sense - when my sender went bad, after they stopped trying to claim it was because Costco supposedly used the wrong oil filter (they hadn't) my vehicle was fixed and back on the road in under an hour - I gather that the book may say to remove the intake, but knowledgeable mechanics know better. For $450 you get several hours of labor at the very least and the sender is actually fairly cheap. As to the LEDs - you bought cheap bulbs. Fit them and make certain they don't spray light everywhere - compare the light pattern on low beam between the stock lights and the LEDs (point your vehicle at a garage door and take photos at night). The should be almost NO light above a sharp cutoff.

You have a warranty. You also have a paint for which a premium was charged to apply and it was done improperly. And you are getting the run-around. Make certain your dealer supports your claim, get it in writing, if possible - if not, get it from the shop that did the estimate and get another estimate or two from the most expensive shops in the area, since you want it done right. Then write them a registered letter telling them that dithering for almost two months for something that is CLEARLY a warranty issue is insulting and give them 14 days to fix it to your satisfaction or to face the consequences, which will be to have the vehicle repaired at the shop of your choice without further notice and then to claim reimbursement in small claims court, a case which they will clearly lose. Remember to write the phrase 'without prejudice' and that the letter is sent registered on the top of the text. You DO have the documentation to cover yourself? Hang onto it because if they don't budge you will need it for court. These guys (manufacturers, insurance companies and so on) all stall, hoping that you'll go away or settle for less - and it works, because 99.9% of people don't follow through to the end (I'm one of the .1% and have won every time I've been challenged by one of these issues and small claims court judges LOVE to see the small guy will against big business if the case is valid - ultimately the big boys almost always lose when the tenacious clients bite and won't let go. However in the end they save more money by shortchanging the majority than they spend defending against the hard*sses.

You may have bought some bad gas.

Oh, it paid for itself; he'd have had to pay the $500 deductible AND be saddled with higher insurance rates for the next few years for having had an at-fault accident. And, if he'd gotten a ticket for his actions there might be additional costs for his driving permit - in my province they charge you more based on your demerits. And since dash cams are as cheap as $25, they are great protection for the tory tellers among us who would write tickets for false offenses or make claims - I would personally like to have a system with spate dual cameras (mine has two, but they are both part of the assembly) and the second one would be nice to be able to record the back end at the same time a the front. I've seen some new cameras that go into a 'sleep' mode and start recording if the vehicle is jostled - I imagine that would be useful for hit-and-run types, though not for the 'key your door' people. Make certain that whatever you buy has a good enough lens to be able to record the license plate of any vehicle in front of you. Just because they say 1080, doesn't mean that the image itself isn't fuzzy - mine is like that - it makes a big, fuzzy file - I'd much prefer paying a bit extra for a decent lens.