bramfrank

Then there's no Bluetooth at all and no speakerphone support, even by wire, unfortunately for you. And adding it would be prohibitively expensive. USB-wise the only thing you will get from your phone is any music out the speakers (to do that you'd need to set the phone to 'mass storage' mode - simpler to just put your music on a USB key and plug that into the socket - charge your phone from a cigarette lighter socket - it's quicker. There's no microphone in your vehicle or any audio processing or support for handsfree operation as it stands now. What I did in my last Journey, which also had no Bluetooth was to buy a Garmin navigator that supported the Bluetooth function and had voice recognition (the Nuvi 3790 and 3460 were what I used, but today they seem to offer the 50, 60 & 70 if I remember correctly). I had it mounted above the mirror and coul activate it by speaking the magic phrase, which I'd changed to something profane. Aside from having to manually turn down the radio volume when I wanted to use the phone it all worked very well.

Does the steering wheel have controls in the upper quadrant of the left side that look like telephone and speech icons? A photo for comparison would probably help - you can click on the image to see a larger version of it - if you don't have that top row of buttons your vehicle isn't equipped for Bluetooth and you can stop looking:

If you just got the vehicle I would bring it back to where it came from and have them fix things. Often just disconnecting one of the wires from the battery for 30 minutes and then reconnecting it will fix a problem, but not always. . . . I would try this first.

Your dealer may not have actually done the recall properly; Can you check the radio and navigator firmware versions and report them here or PM me with the information? The navigator version is displayed on the splash screen when it starts up. The radio version is a bit more complex to read back - you need to brig up the 'service menu' by pressing the driver side temp up and down buttons and the front defrost buttons all simultaneously for about 10 seconds. The menu items are self evident. After the R65 recall the versions for the radio and nav should be: Radio: 15.09.D1 Nav: 6.22 / CTP16 As to the radio needing to be replaced? I just managed to resuscitate a unit that was reporting the dreaded 'can't unlock maps' issue last week. It isn't a deadly problem, in spite of the fact that for some reason the dweebs at FCA replace, rather than fix the issue to get the unit back into service . . . . . It is probably a software glitch that they wrongly believed they's expunged. However since the problem is field-correctable I'm selling off the spare RB5 radio I wound up with and decided to hang on to in spite of it's price.

Added . . . .

I suspect that I'm going to regret doing this at some point, but I am selling my spare nav radio. Because of a perfect storm of circumstances I ended up buying two radios. One is installed in my vehicle and, because of FCA's now-resolved software bug in the RB5 I had decided to keep the second unit as a spare and it sits on a shelf in my garage - I have been hanging on to it for if (or when) the one in my dash might give up the ghost - now that FCA claims this has been resolved I no longer need it. FCA released the R65 recall because they state resolves the software glitch in the device, but more importantly, I have just resolved someone else's 'can't unlock maps' problem, so I know how to recover from the problem should it occur anyway. This is the third (latest) generation of the radio and it supports traffic, something the previous generations do not. It will work in all 2011 and later Journeys with the 8.4 inch screen (or you can convert your 4.3 to an 8.4 and then use this as your radio and get navigation, though the required components for the screen conversion are not included). I had temporarily installed and activated it to test it out and everything radio-related works - AM/FM/Sirius and Nav. I admit that perhaps while I should have, I did NOT check the DVD player though I have no reason to believe that it has any issues. So I'm offering my spare for the same amount I paid for it - US$800 plus shipping. I will ship it either from 12919 or from Montreal, Quebec, depending on where the buyer is located. I am not going to update the radio here because I really don't feel like pulling out one radio to install the other solely to flash it, but I will make the necessary files (and more) available to the buyer from my Dropbox. PM me for details if interested. Images are clickable if you want to see the large version:

In theory it could be done. In practice it would be less trouble (and possibly less expensive) to trade the vehicle in for one that has what you want. For the record, uConnect, much as you'd imagine that it would be the Bluetooth, is actually the radio system. In my last Journey, which likewise had no Bluetooth and had the 4.3" screen I opted for a higher end Garmin (at the time a Nuvi 3790) which I put between the mirror and the headliner and ran the power down through the roof pillar to a powered socket that I installed behind the trim - it was invisible from the outside and extremely neatly done. The 3790 handled the telephone and the navigation with traffic and was 'on standby' for voice commands - you just spoke the trigger phrase and interacted with the device - it worked amazingly well, though the radio volume had to be manually reduced when making a phone call. These days the current models would be (in increasing price AND screen size order, which I believe to be the only difference): the Drivesmart 50LMT, 60LMT and 70LMT

They may not be releasing new maps, but they ought to have maps available from when the unit was supported that you can access to re-install what you had. Is there a corporate entity that you can contact for support at a higher level than your dealer?

If the supplemental map worked the unit itself was not defective, but rather the map corrupted. All it needed was a map reload.

Welcome aboard; It can be done, but the reflector is less than optimal. If you want to do a conversion, get a good projector assembly and rework the headlights. Anything else is a serious compromise. I decided to keep my lighting as legal as possible and simply purchased HIR bulbs - about 50% more lumens for the same watts and the bulbs are almost plug-and-play. I paid US$73 shipped to Canada for a full set of 4 bulbs.

Welcome to the Journey family. I strongly suspect that they are simply not popular there. I don't know whether they do spray rustproofing to vehicles in the UK, but given the issues I see with motorcycles, if they don't, they should. And if they do, get yours done.

I recall reading somewhere that the cable that connects the camera can break from flexing where it goes through the rubber grommet/tube that connects the body to the hatch. Of course the camera itself could be the problem or anything else, including the radio itself for that matter. It isn't rocket science, but it will require competent troubleshooting

I answered the question in the other thread, but essentially you'd need to do a change of citizenship, so to speak, by replacing the vehicle's 'brain' (the BCM) with one from a US vehicle . . . . and I believe that it isn't going to be as simple as just swapping out the modules, since such devices as the keyless entry and start systems store the serial numbers and codes for the modules in the BCM, necessitating a reflash, which would likely fail since the module wouldn't have the proper VIN coded into it. If anyone has done it successfully I'd love to know myself - it would be nice to have the Travellink function.

There is no 'US version' of the radio firmware - they only have a NAFTA version that covers both Canada and the US. Access to Travellink is only enabled if the BCM identifies the vehicle as a US product. Good luck figuring out how to do that without replacing the module, which is both expensive and becomes a service issue in the event of problems down the road. If you reflash the navigator section it will reset all of the parameters to their defaults - that may be something you might want to try. What follows is only for owners of the 2013+ nav radios: 2013+ Nav radios have stylised arrows for the 'where to' and 'show map' icons. if you haven't done so, you should update your radio and NAV to the most recent releases, available for download from the uConnect web site. You do NOT need to have the recall performed to do what the recall delivers since all they will do is to update the firmware if it is not already updated. And by NOT executing the recall, your warranty for the radio is essentially extended . . . . so if you bring your vehicle in tell them specifically that you do NOT want them to do the R65 recall. That way if it does eventually die you would be able to bring in it at that point and they'd do their thing, which includes replacing the radio ONCE (and once only) as a remedy. How do you know whether your radio has the latest firmware? Check the 'splash' screen for the nav as it starts - if it says CTP16 (and/or 6.22) then that is the latest - note that if it doesn't, you need to download the files for the radio AND for the navigator and to update the radio software before doing the navigator. Again, this is ONLY for the 2013+ RB5 radios.

The unit will not like your map as the primary because the basemap and unit are tied to the US region, so it will reject a main map for Brazil. You can TRY to install a supplementary map (an unlocked map of your region in the appropriate format, but named gmapsupp.img). I'd try a small map first . . . . put the map onto a good USB key (the unit is VERY particular, try a class 10 microSD card in an USB adapter). Format the key, put the map into a folder named garmin and nothing else on the key. Insert the key, put the vehicle into the accessory position and see what happens. You may have to select the map in the settings if it installs properly. Note that you must keep the radio working throughout the entire update process or you might end up with a brick - and the accessory times out after 30 minutes, so you will need to press the start button 3 times every 20 minutes or so, making certain you do not have the doors open when you do. If you aren't 100% certain of the procedure do not begin it.

It's an REB - no SD slot and no DVD either. You may not need an unlock code, depending on when the radio was made. Probably not.

Actually, because the new radio has the SD slot, it occurs to me that he will also need the lower bezel.

You need a radio and an 8.4" screen and a new upper bezel at the very least. If you don't have Sirius and you want that you'll also need a satellite antenna.

And my response was for the light on the inside of the hatch, as was requested.

The reason it 'worked like a charm' is because you already had automatic air. If you didn't have automatic air and you wanted it to work you would need to replace the ambient light/temperature sensor and have the appropriate sales code added. And price depends on the provider. For a used one you will pay anywhere from $200 (a serious exception - a member here got his radio, the stack AND the screen for that money - but the vendor thought it wasn't a nav radio - and the buyer bought it based on the part number and his hunch was right) to as much as $1400 for the radio module alone (again I'm referring to a NAV radio). A new module is as much as $2400, depending on your dealer. And just for the record, you do NOT need the VIN of the donor vehicle. But I'm curious. According to your profile you have a 2016 Crossroad . . . . the Canadian Crossroad comes with the 8.4 as standard. Why did you have to upgrade?

I assume that you have the 8.4 radio? Supposedly, if the vehicle is prewired (and since the complete kit was for the 2011 model year I suppose that they prewired them all starting in 2012) you will find the connectors in the hatch . . . . you would remove the liner (requires a trim stick, among other tools) - you will find the instructions to do this in the old installation manual and note that there is a single bolt that needs to have the nut removed to get the bezel off. You would disconnect the handle from the old bezel, unplug the lights and release button and then connect up the new bezel and re-install it. Your dealer would then add the sales code and, if all goes well you will have a functional backup camera. Having said that; supposedly my 2014 Crossroad should have been prewired, but if it was I couldn't find the connector, so I ran the wiring to the front of the vehicle. The hatch disassembly procedure begins with step 40 in the manual below: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861161.pdf

The vehicle is most likely fine. The dealer? That's another story . . . . why not get your DJ back and take it to another shop where they know what they're doing? Besides, why do they need to keep it anyway? As an aside, note that it is not 'trailer towing package', but rather a towing PREP package, which ensures that the oil cooler, vehicle harness connector and cable set are all in place when the vehicle leaves the factory. The sales code apparently enables the harness AND the anti-sway software.

The whole point of the exercise is that the diameter of every approved wheel/tire combination is about the same - the bigger the rim, the smaller the sidewall. Our country house used to be at the bottom of a hill (it still is there, but it's been sold) up in cottage country north of Montreal - we got a lot of snow, though not as much as, say Whistler. Other people would get stuck. I never did. I've never used chains. I've never needed them. If the snow gets too deep the wheels will be lifted off the ground altogether and you won't be going anywhere anyway; chains or not.

Well, since you can't use chains your choices are limited to AWD, which clearly can't be added to the vehicle or to install winter tires (or the new all year tires, which are supposed to be good for use in snow, but about which I have my doubts because they don't have the big, blocky treads that are used on snow-specific tires) If you go with snow tires I suggest installing them on 'winter wheels', otherwise known as steel rims. I put steel rims on my '11 because for one thing the salt and such are hard on the wheel finishes and the cost of the rims is returned by the combination of not having to dismount and balance the tires twice each year and the savings on the cost of the tires in the smaller sizes. The '09 will handle rims as small as 16 inch - and wheels of at least 20 inch diameter, though on the top end you're getting decorative and the tires get rare and expensive, so why bother with big wheels for winter? Even though it came with larger summer wheels I had 16" rims and snow tires on my '11 - I actually found a set of winter wheels/tires/hubcaps that had been used one season and that saved a bundle. They changed things when the big brakes were introduced in the middle of 2012 so the smallest wheels as of that model are 17's, which is what I have for my Crossroad. I did not bother to install tire pressure sensors on the winter wheels - on the newer Journeys the TPMS simply chimes once in the fall and then ignores the fact that they are missing until the summer tires are reinstalled. The tire size you use obviously will depend on the wheels you choose, but if you stick to the stock wheel sizes you can use the stock tire sizes for your winter tires and your speedometer will then be pretty much as accurate as it is with the summer tires. If you do plan to change the tire sizes around you should note that skinny tires do better in snow than fat ones, though to a large degree it is more about the driver than it is about the size of the tires.

The mileage should be the same, since the outer diameter of the tires is the same and the weight is not significantly different, not that even this makes all that much difference; It is mainly the amount of work the engine has to do to travel the distance that impacts on mileage one can achieve - and again, this is unchanged, even if the diameter of the tires is, all other things being equal.