bramfrank

I believe that whatever the issue is, the warranty replacement program wasn't the answer, since the repair procedure involved shipping the dealer a replacement unit that they created by reloading the software and maps into a unit that had failed. And they stick that 'refurbished' (such as it is) unit back in your vehicle without resolving the underlying cause. But if you can believe the verbiage and if the recall is 'right', the problem was squirrely software and the 'fix' is the latest radio firmware and the latest nav firmware, which you seem to have. The good news is that if it goes again it will ONLY cost you $100 - if you'd have had no warranty the dealer would want to charge you $1700 or more for the module plus labor. I would still love to get my hands on a failed unit to see if my theory is right. But both my RB5s work fine.

As it says . . . . the only reason is because it's the law. With the exception of that winter event, which predated the requirement for snow tires, I never had them on any of my vehicles, never got into a winter accident and never got stuck, even though the house was at the bottom of a hill in a heavy snow area.

Real drivers don't need snow tires, AWD OR chains!! The only reason I have snows is because it is the law - I've pulled AWD explorers out of wheel ruts in the ice with a Pontiac Trans Sport with almost bald tires. My country house was at the bottom of a hill . . . I've posted the story of my ex sister in law here before. It is all about the driver.

I took off my snow tires and installed the OEM wheels, so now we can get a great blizzard. How do I know? Murphy told me.

I'm wondering what the dealer did on those two (two? why two?) visits for the recall - I wonder if he even updated the system properly, though the only way to know is to check the version of the software (which is what shows as the navigator is starting up for the first time after switching on the vehicle). SO BEFORE YOU GO BACK TO THE DEALER Can you do me a favor and look at the splash screen while it starts and report the firmware version? It will probably be CTP14, CTP15 or CTP16 - but knowing what it is would be more than useful. There may also be another set of numbers in the form of 5.17 or 6.22. If you could please post the information here or send me a private message with the data. THANK YOU

My '11 also needed to have it's clock reset regularly. With the factory nav the radio there's an option that allows the nav to drive the vehicle's clock, so it is always accurate. You'd have thought that even if they didn't use the GPS data to trim the speedometer accuracy, that they'd display accurate speed data derived from the constellation on the nav screen, rather than simply parroting what's on the dash. I wonder if the trip meter stats in the nav are derived from the GPS speed or from the vehicle's idea of how fast it was going?

I had to go to a client's out in the country today. I didn't have the location in the RB5 vehicle navigator and they don't have a street address, so I took out my Garmin 3490 and popped it on the windshield to route me to the door. Interesting; The speed as indicated on the RB5 matches the vehicle's digital readout which I know from experience reads about 4% optimistic with my winter tires installed. The Garmin read 4% lower than the vehicle nav which tells me that they do not use the GPS network to calculate the vehicle speed, but just get it from the vehicle . . . . . . and that's just dumb, since they have accurate vehicle speed as calculated once per second from the constellation of satellites - why not use the GPS to set the vehicle, like they do for the clock?

Be aware that the rear calipers must be screwed back in using a rewind tool. And I can't imagine how pushing back the pitons would impact the ABS since it is essentially out of circuit when not activated.

Well, unless you need it, why spend the extra money for the 3rd row, which is only good for midgets and munchkins and isn't exactly spacious? I prefer having the rollerblind cargo cover and if the resale isn't as good, there's the fact that it cost that much less up front . . . As with everything out there, unless you pick up the parts from a scrap yard (and even then you won't be able to add the rear heat), converting is more trouble than buying the right thing up front.

I would ask my local dealer whether he would apply the sales code anyway - don't tell him you are aware of this law - you never know and since it is the official/OEM starter, it isn't as if it would be discovered, once installed and activated.

Well, since the OP stated he was at 38K miles on the vehicle, it is going to come out of his pocket.

There is a rather interesting video on Youtube done outdoors in the dead of winter by someone who was rather unprepared for the task. I figure if he could do it, anyone can.

I'll assume that you didn't buy an extended warranty? In any case there isn't much there that could cause this - it's a fixed camera with absolutely standard video wired to the back of the radio which then decodes the image to the screen. Is this a factory standard camera? Some cameras actually have the ability to invert their image by setting a parameter or placing a jumper . . . . there might be a jumper wire on the camera board and you could be seeing the result of corrosion, which might explain why it was bad for a while (as the connection was busy going bad) and then it simply stabilised upside down. Assuming that the problem is out back with the camera, a replacement camera assembly (which includes the entire rear assembly; the panel that includes the door handle, license plate bulbs and the release push button) costs about $110. installing it is a bit of a bother if you don't have tools or mechanical abilities, but it should take about an hour or so. If you were technical you might want to see if you could get at the circuit board and whether cleaning it up resolves the problem before buying a new part. Or you could just live with it.

While the site says that all US DJ models get automatic headlamps (which we know is wrong), the current online brochure says they're optional on the Crossroad and Crossroad +, a component of the Popular Equipment Group. And adding automatic headlights is a function of changing some components and adding a sales code which I believe is not currently possible. Note that all of the promotional material is subject to change.

ROLOTX - they're all the same from 2011 onward

And in the owner's manual.

This one's a few bucks cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221980101633 Have you decided how you will deal with the antenna issue?

The last two letters in the part number are the version, which is less important with this radio than it is with the Nav version. To make things simpler I've simply linked to the part page for a random (2013-SXT) product page radio. Keys are that the radio MODEL is REB. And it can come from a Journey, 300 or Charger with the same model radio - but NOT from a Dart, which uses the same nomenclature, but is not compatible. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/DODGE/2013/JOURNEYFWD--24L-I4-DOHC-16V-Dual-VVT--4-Speed-Automatic-VLPSXT/RADIO-MULTI-Media-REB/10673890/68209665ZB.html

Correct

Do you actually need more power anyway? How often I your pedal floored? I don't believe I've had the throttle on the '14 full open since I got it 15 months ago.

Hopefully by 'old receiver', you mean the radio you just bought? Edit: Aha, reading more than just the last post revealed the answer to my question . . . . that is correct, noting that you apply the radio update first and the navigator update (the file that has the word 'GARMIN' in the title) second.

Now, if my dealer pulled that with me I'd be very upset . . . . but having said that. my response would likely have bee to tell them to give me a loaner (since your extended warranty provides for one) and tell them that knowing it was dead (i.e. that you wouldn't have made the appointment if the thing was working and that you aren't an idiot) they should have made the troubleshooting resources available - they need to fix it or cover your time for the extra appointment,

Ostensibly you should be running the latest firmware in order to get the benefit of whatever features have been added (none that I know of) and get rid of any bugs that have been expunged . . . . like chicken soup, if can't hurt to run the updates, but it isn't mandatory unless you have the RB5 navigation radio. But as it isn't a recall item on the RE2 radio, asking the dealer to do the update could result in a bill to you, so why not do it yourself?

While I probably wouldn't opt for dealer-supplied undercoating there are some very good reasons for applying rustproofing if you live in an area where they spread corrosives on the road in the wintertime - especially if you plan to keep your vehicle and want to delay the onset of corrosion-induced electrical gremlins. But as you know, the hard part is in getting you to sign on the dotted line for the vehicle - and they make huge margins on the add-ons which is why they shoot for paint protection, undercoating and glass marking to name a few - compared to the cost of the vehicle and proposed during the closing process where $250 seems like a pittance compared to the $25K the vehicle costs, you are reasonably ripe for a come-on. About the only dealer-provided option I would ever purchase is the extended warranty - and you can negotiate with your dealer and can shop for those to get a better deal - but be warned that you should stick to the OEM warranties - do not buy aftermarket policies if you choose to buy a plan. While you were pressed to purchase, you can't blame the dealer for not warning you about something you never mentioned; many vehicles come with features like Sirius that are allowed to lapse once the free trial is over and they aren't huge selling points for the staff - so I appreciate your frustration, but that is not the dealer's fault.

Well, it might be true, since the connector on the back of my radio had wires poking into the relevant locations, but I could not for the life of me find the other end anywhere in the tailgate. Since the kit came with the harness I just went ahead and wired it all up - if there really is a harness out back I need only reconnect the video wires in the event of a cable failure down the road (pun intended) if necessary. But that last post doesn't make a lot of sense for our vehicles, since the 3rd brake light in a Journey is at the top of the hatch and the camera is in the bezel that holds the unlock button, license plate light and handle - and that entire component has to be changed - and it is held in place by a bolt that requires you to remove the liner.