bramfrank

My front passenger seat back rattles, but not the second row . . . .

You can do the update yourself if your new radio doesn't already have the latest firmware . . . . . it is easy to check to be certain that you already have the latest software . . . . if your radio is running CTP16 (it shows on the navigator screen as it starts up) then you have what FCA apparently considers to be 'the fix'. Reading the 'campaign' letter, they seem to imply that this is it - one shot and then they wash their hands of it, though I suspect that if all their radios continue to screw up they'll have to go through it again or perhaps there could be a class action complaint lodged.

It isn't a map update on the web site . . . . Check your PMs

$1300 is highway robbery . . . . and as long as you have Sirius (which all of the 8.4 systems sold in North America do) then ANY upgrade is plug and play no matter where you get your radio. For the record it isn't an activation code, but rather the security antitheft unlock code that most modern radios require including our units - if you can't find someone to unlock your radio for free there is someone on this board who has been providing this information on request (no, not me). On the other hand, if you have a vehicle with the new 8.4A system (like a new Durango and such), that requires a code to enable the Nav - all of the hardware is already on board. But the code costs . . . .

Take note that the roof liner is different for vehicles with the overhead console - before you spend your money I suggest you go into a showroom and take a close look at the higher trim models to see what you would be getting yourself in to.

We started getting January thaws staring in the last 1960s - and we're in a technical drought in Quebec - that doesn't mean that mankind has changed things, since the only constant in nature IS change. Thanks to El Ni·ño we've had a warmer than normal winter here in Montreal . . . . . at least until last week, when temperatures dropped to -25 or so . . . what snow we had pretty much had melted, but we had lots of wind (I had some damage to my home which can't be repaired until spring), but our summers haven't been as warm as they were either . . . . . mother nature is a mysterious force. But to clarify yes, that was about 15 years ago. We never concluded a significant sale into Sweden, but were very successful in Russia - I speak from experience when I tell you that it gets VERY cold in Siberia in February.

You should get about 12.5 l/100 km with the v6 if you happen to drive my particular mix of roads the way that I do and have the same ambient temps . . . . here in Montreal we tend to get warmer and longer summers than you do, but I recall being able to go out of my hotel into the Sergels Torg in Stockholm wearing just a sport jacket over a shirt at the end of November one year when I was there at that time of year selling to Televerket so how bad can it be?

The way these vehicles work is that the various options are individually enabled in the BCM (Body Control Module) and the various devices, such as the radio, check the BCM on startup to see what they are allowed to do - such things as daylight running lights, backup camera, power inverter and the remote starter, for example require that the factory or the dealer enable these options by installing what are known as 'sales codes' into the BCM. So even if you bought the factory remote starter kit ( you can get it on eBay in the US for about US$270 and it includes two new key FOBs, because fobs can only be programmed once) and if you installed the special receiver and other bits in the vehicle, the dealer would still need to mate the new FOBs to the BCM and add the sales code for the remote start. The same would apply is you have the 8.4 inch display radio and wanted to add the factory backup camera if you don't already have it. So before investing in such things as a FACTORY remote start kit you should verify with the dealer that they can (and that they are willing to) add the relevant sales code to the vehicle's configuration. It SHOULD work and they SHOULD be able to, but who knows what Fiat may have done or allows the dealers to do.

HP differential is likely due to different tuning for the Euro version of the engine in order to meet emission requirements. Or they may use a different weighting system to calculate the number. I'm a bit surprised that the vendor isn't getting any more vehicles this year - there's still six months or more of production of the model year in Mexico

It's freaking cold in my garage. It certainly isn't Sine, and it isn't 50% duty cycle square wave. It looks to be PWM . . . . . this is unloaded.

I'll drag my scope to the car and check it - it will provide the definitive answer. I'll post the result in an hour or two when I get back home again.

Aftermarket can be added for certain - you'll need an experienced installation shop to make that work. But for the OEM, as I wrote in the welcome thread you'll need to check with the dealer because to make the components work in the vehicle they need to add the sales code for the alarm and it could conceivably not be available to them - we see this with some features even here in North America.

Welcome to the group. I hope you enjoy your new vehicle . . . I suppose you must hate the Kia if you are willing to step back a year model-wise. The trade off between noise and torque (diesels tending to be noisy but very torquey compared with gasoline engines) likely won't make much difference overall, since we don't tend to floor our vehicles most of the time. Does Fiat not offer those options? That would seem strange since the vehicles are assembled in the same factory. They are, however options - mine came with the heated seats/steering wheel option and I could have ordered (and can add) the factory remote start. I wonder if you couldn't buy the Mopar/Dodge OEM remote start kit and add it to your new Fremont? It would require adding a sales code to the vehicle to enable it, something you should probably discuss with the dealer if you want to consider going that route.

MAC address of the controlling device . . . . password . . . . session based link encryption using the vehicle VIN as a key . . . . dedicated callback - there are lots of ways.

There are no control apps for the Journey. You can stream Pandora to the radio using the BT connection, but you will not see the information or be able to control the app from the vehicle's display. You could add aftermarket hardware and a plan to connect your vehicle to the cellular network (which is how your phone would interface to the vehicle in that environment) and, if your vehicle was equipped with a suitable controller (we have a member here that was developing a Raspberry Pi application that could be used - it plugs into the OBD interface) you might achieve the remote control results you are looking for.

FCA's OEM mapping is woefully out of date and while traffic data for Canada is broadcast, for some reason Sirius does not enable it, even though the manual says we're supposed to have it for 5 years gratis. The base map has nothing to do with the details you see - it is only used to provide some minimal information when you are outside of the coverage of the main maps. One really nice thing about the RB5 is that is combines both GPS AND dead reckoning, something very few navigators do - it allows the unit to work in garages and through long tunnels without losing lock.

Not on any of mine (I have the original RE2 and two RB5 radios and they all work the same) press and hold the two left side temp change buttons and the front defrost - all three at the same time - for about 5 seconds and voila . . . dealer screen. That works with both RE2 and RB5 radios.

He was close . . . . Press driver's side hard temp up and down buttons simultaneously along with the FRONT defrost button - you'll get the dealer screen

Correct

Yes - they are related. The latest firmware is supposed to 'cure' the problem. And the problem ONLY exists with the navigator; there is no campaign for non-navigator radios. So go by the dealer if your radio is acting up - or simply make certain your radio is running the latest firmware, which is very easy to get and install. In theory once you have the most current versions of the radio and navigator firmware you should be immune to the 'can't unlock maps' issue.

Glad to hear you got it running . . . . . Just for the sake of completeness, had you bought the ECM from the dealer, how much would it have cost?

I suggest that the ECM has not failed, but rather than you have a bad ground somewhere due to corrosion . . . . a failed unit would likely not work at all.

I'm reasonably certain that aftermarket Mopar thing only applies to the pre-2011 Mygig radios. But what we do know is that as mentioned you cannot easily retrofit the factory package - you'd be better off trading the vehicle to get the OEM bits in and running. What I did in my last Journey was to get a Garmin 3490 GPS navigator, which has voice command that is triggered by a spoken phrase and a Bluetooth speakerphone. I put it above the rear view mirror (which made it invisible from outside) because that vehicle did not have the overhead console, leaving lots of room between the mirror and the headliner - and I fished the power cord down the right side pillar, installed a cigarette lighter socket for the traffic receiver to plug in to behind the trim and ran that power leads from the socket to the fuse block behind the glove box - you could probably have a stereo store install it for less than $50 if you aren't handy. The only drawback to the arrangement I had is that you need to turn down the stereo manually when you want to use the phone or give directions to the navigator - I considered neither to have been a hardship. The only reason I don't use that setup now is that my current DJ came with Bluetooth as part of the basic package.

Before I posted my comment about the tutorial I went through it - if you step through it past the 'use the Akamai' section they do tell you to execute the download and to navigate to your USB key for the destination . . . . . perhaps I 'got it' because I already knew how I worked, having updated my hardware in the past. However I presume that you've now got it all sorted out and that your radio and your navigator are running the latest versions now. If not, note that you need to update the radio first and the navigator second - there's a note somewhere about the fact that if you do the navigator before updating the radio things can go 'wrong'.

Clearing the recall is fine, but if your radio is working properly and you have no other reason to go to the dealer, there's no reason to go crazy and to spend hours dealing with an issue that you can easily resolve by yourself in 20 or so minutes. Interesting, the R65 radio issue is NOT called a recall by FCA, but rather a 'campaign'. I gather that the difference is that a recall is a safety mandated matter where a campaign is a voluntary service offering.