bramfrank

There ARE instructions on the web site . . . . and Win10 is actually pretty solid - stable enough so that I'm about to upgrade my various Win7 and Win8 machines.

Just click the link for the direct download instead of trying to use the Akamai crap.

The controls aren't in the radio. The interface is in the radio. The controls are in the seat heater module.

By the way, new bulbs can be defective too . . . .

Maybe the current sensor is 'fratzed'. You can try resetting the vehicle by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes . . . . you can also try swapping the bulbs between the left and right sides to see if the problem follows the bulb or stays with the side. If it follows the bulb go out and spend the $5 for a new one . . . the filament may be broken, but when you tested it, whatever orientation you had it in allowed the loose end to make contact with the bulbs.

As it happens I recently updated my radio from 15.02.B2 to 15.09.D1 and the nav from 5.12/CTP15 to 6.22/CTP16. That's the gist of the program if your nav radio is working properly. It is simple to do yourself by downloading the updates from www.driveuconnect.com/software-update and updating your radio and the nav with the latest firmware. It'll take about 20 minutes for both updates. Note that pre-2013 radios use different firmware packages than the more recent models and the above firmware numbers I've mentioned are for the most recent model.

The reason it is only in North America is because it was mandated by the NHTSA and Industry Canada, and is not a voluntary FCA program - I guess they figure that this is not a safety issue, so they are only executing the program where they are forced to. I suggest you might want to lobby your local variant of the US and Canadian agencies and ask that they mandate FCA to perform the safety recall on vehicles sold in the EU.

Once the manifold vacuum has bled off the pedal becomes stiff and hard to press. So press harder. Nothing will break.

The screen is independent from the radio, so all you really need is the appropriate radio module . . . and a subscription, once you get the radio and it's associated antenna connected. While I don't think the do, the latest model radios *might* need an unlock code, which is defined by your vehicle's VIN and the serial number of the radio module - you won't know until you get it installed, at which point it might ask for the code. If one is required your dealer ought to be able to provide one for free if he's any good, failing which there are other no charge resources available.

Mr. Tater; The filter for the 3.6 was redesigned in late (I believe) 2013 and using the old ones will break something in the newer vehicles. Yours needs a newer design filter. If a part doesn't fit as you expect you should never force the issue - when the pressure sensor in my vehicle shorted out the dealer started by warning me that Costco (who do my oil changes) had damaged the vehicle by using the wrong filter and that the fix would cost $500, not covered under warranty . . . . . except that I knew that the issue was the sensor, since it was pinned at the top even when the engine wasn't running. The good news is that while they warned me, they didn't try to con me - in the end they reported the issue as having been what I expected, though perhaps that was because I told them to ensure that I got the removed component back so I could get Costco to reimburse me for the damage their mistake had cost to resolve. Had I been a housewife or non-technical individual I might not have fared as well.

You don't need to 'rip out your headliner', but unless you go for a generic satellite antenna you will have to fish the new cable through the headliner to the rear and replace the antenna base if you want to it be all stock.

You can be fairly certain that the FOB had nothing to do with the radio problem . . . . I suggest that those radios in the older DJs had hard drives and I suppose that as a mechanical device it is the most prone to failure - it may be repairable, but you can more likely find a replacement at a scrap yard or on eBay, as suggested. I don't know which radio model you have, but you are looking at between $10 and $400 for one or the other style on eBay - if you buy from an LKQ vendor you get a warranty, too. Just go to eBay and search on "2010 Dodge Journey Radio"

Bluetooth was an option (still is) separate from the radio. If you don't have the buttons for this (the front top row of two buttons on the left side of the steering wheel) on your steering wheel and if you don't have the auto-dimming rear view mirror then you don't have factory Bluetooth. If you DO have these hardware features then your Bluetooth module is either disconnected (it plugs into the rear of the radio) or defective. What I did for my '11 was to get a high end Garmin navigator with voice command that I installed above the rear view mirror - that was on an SE Plus which had lots of room between the mirror and the roof liner - wiring was run down to the fuse block behind the glove box for a seamless installation.

For the OP: Glad to hear you are enjoying your vehicle and that your opinion of the 4 cylinder matches the experience I had with my '11 - I'd have gladly taken another unit with the 4 banger if it was offered in the Crossroad up here in Kanukistan . . . but it isn't. Mine has about 17.5K and there is a rattle from the front passenger seat - seems to be related to the seat back. I also have an annoying vibration that is a bad winter tire. In about 6 weeks the summer wheels go back on. I can't wait. Beyond that the only issue I've had was that the oil pressure sender failed - and the dealer started out by trying to make it seem like it was because of using the wrong oil filter - he of course changed his tune when I insisted on being present when the oil filter was removed so I could prove a claim against Costco, who do my oil changes . . . . .

Interesting that they limit the recall to 2014 through 2015 model years - this does not seem to cover the 'can't unlock maps' issue.

Your link has a few extra characters after the closing slash . . . . OK, that site is a private site created by a member here because he didn't like the way the uConnect site works - his file links are good, though again you need to know what you have if your radio's been changed, so you can apply the right file to your radio.

The problem IMO is not likely with the firmware, but rather with the maps - the device is powering up properly but reports that the maps are locked. If you do want to try reloading the firmware I wish you luck - but do NOT take the Fiat firmware . . . go to the uConnect site, enter your VIN and download the file from there . . . . however I wouldn't even do that since I personally prefer the older CTP13 version which is not going to be offered to you. Having said all this, there are two major hardware variants of the RB5. There was a major change about 2/3 of the way through the 2102 model year. That's one reason for using the uConnect site since their database knows which version you have . . . or had . . . if your radio's been changed and it they put an early radio to replace the late model and if the database hasn't been updated, you could well be downloading radio-killer firmware. So figure out what you have before trying anything.

And that's why I went with HIR for both low and high beams - no muss, no fuss.

As long as you don't have high beam DRLs or you reduce the output for them if you do.

Given that neither FOB is working, I would be looking for something commo5n to them, like the receiver module, or maybe a fuse.

That's right 35 watt HIDs put out ~3200 lumens. 50 watt HIDs produce about 4500 lumens and don't require loading resistors to fool the system, because they are within 10% of the expected load . . . . . You can get LEDs that deliver up to 15000 lumens - we've delivered LED street lights to replace HPS systems - they are mucho bright. But the reflector in the Journey doesn't really like either HID or LED lighting - use a properly designed projector to properly deploy an HID solution - I did a bit of poking around and it seems that some companies in the orient are offering projector based LED devices - haven't tried them; haven't even seen pictures of them. That's why I went HIR. It works perfectly with the vehicle's reflector and produced about 50% more light than stock and the bulbs last almost 50% longer.

The model lineup here is optioned out differently. The R/T is ONLY available as a 6 cylinder AWD 7 passenger vehicle with most every option included . . .. . a loaded R/T WITH every conceivable option including Nav, sunroof, kid seats and so on is about $39,950 prep/transport and such included (including $2k in incentives) before negotiating - the AWD Crossroad is even more expensive AT LIST when loaded up. By way of comparison, an R/T loaded the same way in the US retails at $36,968 plus prep (that includes $2.5K in incentives). Given today's exchange rates, the Canadian R/T costs $27,365 in US dollars - and even when I bought mine in '14, it would have been 34,364 (yes, that's how far the Canadian dollar has fallen, but it would still have been $2.5K cheaper to buy in Canada than in the US even then. My FWD Crossroad is likewise loaded up with 'stuff', so to speak before adding any options, though it is missing things like remote start (The base AWD version has more than just the AWD hardware over the base FWD version). But to give you an idea, the MSRP of my unit was on the order of $34.5K (about $29,660 in US funds) - but I paid about $8K less by the time we were through (plus tax) and managed to get the dealer to include snow tires on steel rims and my extended warranty . . . . . then again I was able to push my stealer very hard - they were desperate to get rid of the vehicle because it was a 5 passenger and their other clients apparently did not want anything but 7 passenger versions for some reason.

Think about getting an extended warranty . . . they're just going to put in a radio that they got from another vehicle with the same problem and reloaded . . . . .

Always choose the part with the higher suffix letter (so the 05085546AE).

Auto headlights requires a replacement light switch assembly and the addition of the ambient light sensor module - once installed the dealer would need to enable the feature by adding the sales code to the vehicle. Without shopping to price out the parts this is likely to cost on the order of $250 - if you put them in yourself. Moving from the 4.3" to the 8.4" display and adding the Navigation radio is a whole other matter - you would need to replace the radio module, the screen, the lower stack controls and the bezel - do you have automatic air? That's another detail because all of the 8.4" equipped vehicles do have it and at the very least the ambient sensor (which also detects the ambient light and comes in 3 models) would need to be replaced. In any case expect this to cost something between $500 and $1,000 with used parts. The backup camera costs about $265 for the kit - you'd need to have the sales code for the camera added to enable it's function. One option you might want to consider is to add in a backup camera (which could be the OEM kit or an aftermarket) and to have a 'lockpick' installed which can enable video on the small display. But lockpick claims that their kits don't work on 4.3" displays while at least one person on the forum here claims otherwise. There IS a video demo from someone on Youtube that shows backup video on a 4.3" display: - they DO give an e-mail address in the video if you want to follow up with them. You can also search google for more solutions: https://www.google.ca/search?q=backup+camera+adapter+for+4.3+inch+uconnect&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-CA:IE-Address&ie=&oe=&gfe_rd=cr&ei=AamYVpaIIKyC8QfPobi4CA&gws_rd=ssl#q=backup+camera+dodge+journey+adapter+for+4.3+inch+uconnect Good luck