bramfrank

Note that dealer installed options are NOT covered by the Chrysler OEM extended warranty. But dealers have their tricks that they can use in order to get claims for this sort of thing through when properly motivated.

The video input on the radio is an absolutely standard composite video lead - it's actually the one that the Lockpick uses, so all you'd need to do is to extend the video output of your present camera to the video input on the connector of the radio (information on which pins can be found online and also in the OEM installation manual or from any of the aftermarket providers. in fact there are vendors on the web who will sell you a conventional adapter cable with an RCA video input to adapt your camera output without having to fabricate a cable or cutting and splicing the end of your present one.. Yes, you WOULD need to have the sales code enabled - but a dealer might charge very little for that (when I did mine they charged me for an hour, so I have them terminate the cable from the kit to the back of the radio - I'd already paid them for the time anyway). And for the record, I paid US$265 for the OEM kit - but you wouldn't need it if you used your existing camera.

You probably have a bad ground, corroded connector or intermittent module somewhere, since it reports multiple sensor issues.

Why not simply connect the camera to the vehicle and have the sales code added?

Glad to hear you figured it out. I didn't expect the list to be impacted. And the pairing data must be stored in the Bluetooth module, which makes perfect sense. As to the lockpick - I don't know what features you used it for, but I know that if it as reasonably priced I'd have liked it for the ability to enter data with the vehicle in gear. But given how much they charge for it, I decided I would do without.

While a third of an amp of idle current is unusual and too much, a charged battery has about 90 amp-hours of capacity, so over a 12 hour period you will drain about 6 amp-hours, or about 7% of the battery capacity, suggesting an issue with the battery or that the battery isn't fully charged going in. But idle current draw should be in the milliamps, not the half amp range - so a code update may be the issue - but if it hasn't been a problem over the past 5 years, the obvious question is why now? There are more fuses to pull - they are behind the glove box.

Just to be certain, you don't have any aftermarket gizmos wired to the vehicle? Try one of two things before taking it to a mechanic who will fish around hoping to stumble across a cure . . . . 1. Charge the battery and leave it disconnected. Reconnect it in the morning. You might have a battery with an intermittent cell. If that's the case and if the cell goes bad when the battery cools it should prove the point. or 2. Substitute a known good battery for the one in the vehicle, let it sit connected and see if that one goes dead overnight - the car is supposed to have a cutoff to prevent the battery from discharging if you inadvertently leave the interior lights on . . . . . so it shouldn't be a lights issue.

I suppose that means that phones will be able to take over the display and that *more* phones will be supported when the integration is complete. But you'll never see this in the present version of the Dodge Journey, since we have the second generation of the uConnect system in our vehicles.

Well, to begin, their cost is nowhere near $1,500, because they are recycling failed units - in some cases, as noted multiple times - your defective units go back to the repair depot for a core credit where all they do is reload the firmware and maps and send them out to the next dealer calling for a replacement. Note that you can buy units in the field for about US$800-$1200 which never fail (I happen to have a spare on my shelf that I bought 'just in case' available for purchase). The key to success would seem to be the source of those field-purchased units, which is from accidented vehicles, which likely are not subject to the issues that the radios and/or feature combination that causes those failures in those of the radios in your vehicles - as I've noted, those who suffer problems tend to suffer them repeatedly while the majority of owners never have issues (now watch - having said I have a spare to sell and because I said it isn't likely to happen, MY unit will fail tomorrow - that's just how Murphy seems to work). They use the same radios we do in both the 300 and the Charger as well and the same hardware, with different firmware is used in the Dart - I've seen no spate of reports about those vehicles of the sort of failure mode reported for the Journey. There's only the occasional report that I found by doing a cursory search with Google. Then again I also see some reports of the same problem on the 430N (the previous generation radio that dhh3 loves). Perhaps the issue is related to both the combination of features AND the vehicle type or even the serial number of the vehicle!!! However to suggest that this is the vehicle's weak point may well not be appropriate, but is quite likely rather a symptom of a poor repair procedure coupled to an unresolved trigger mechanism.

Indeed; Swapping out units with essentially unrepaired 'refurbished' modules is a recipe for disappointment. Given your warranty status I would go on record (with a registered letter to FCA) holding them responsible moving forward since there is 'clearly a defect of some sort that affects a higher than expected percentage of these vehicles for reasons that have never been determined'. You are entitled to reasonable service from the vehicle systems and you have not been getting that - so you hold the company accountable and responsible to repair any issues with the radio subsystem moving forward. Two failures is two too many. My opinion about the cause remains unchanged.

I don't feel the same way about the sound from the stock (basic 8.4 RE2 or RB5) system. I think that the premium sound is a huge step down, but the base model sounds very nice for an OEM sound system. As to CarPlay or Android Auto? I don't like the idea of being able to load lots of interactive apps into a vehicle - it's already pretty hinkey (how DO you spell that?) from a security perspective. The trick to car infotainment systems is that the user interface has to be intuitive - and the ones in the Journey are VERY intuitive, enough that they are acknowledged to be the best in the industry from a usability perspective. That may well change, but swapping out the integrated system for something in it's infancy that will break some of the vehicle's functionality is not a particularly appealing concept in my opinion.

You might try resetting the vehicle's processors again by removing one of the battery leads, leaving it off for a half hour and then reconnecting it (without bobbling the connection). If that doesn't work and if there's nothing been done to the vehicle it is probably going to be something of a scavenger hunt to figure it out. You may well need to install an ampmeter and start pulling fuses to see what's causing the drain.

It is fairly simple to get at the radio and the lower stack controls. Use the relevant directions in the instruction manual from the backup camera installation kit: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861161.pdf

I got nothing. If the fuses are good and resetting the car didn't help then who knows? A half-unplugged cable, perhaps? A corroded ground that got pushed over the edge when you cycled power?

Does the radio do it too? The lower stack connector might have popped loose or the channel select knob might have been affected by that pothole - it must have been hanging by a thread if a pothole managed to cause the problem without causing additional damage such as bending a rim. Your vehicle is hopefully still under the bumper to bumper warranty so you won't have to pay for the fix (don't tell them that the pothole caused the problem). If it isn't, it is quite simple to get the stack off and check the connections.

I doesn't matter whether you send the card back or not. It's only purpose is to stop the recall notices from coming to you. That you get them simply means that whoever bought your vehicle hasn't bothered register his vehicle with FCA - his problem, not yours since you probably don't know who it is anyway. When (if) he ever takes the vehicle to an FCA dealer for service they'll catch the outstanding recall. At least it isn't as if the vehicle is going to blow up this time around.

The Canadian dollar is down, and they build them in US dollars (actually Mexican Pesos, I suppose), so our prices up here have to be adjusted to suit.

Good one. I went with the 7 year / 115k / zero deductible coverage myself, since we can't get lifetime coverage in Canada and our policies are so expensive. Happy New Year

After you get it fixed and if you plan to keep your vehicle, you might want to consider buying a factory (not third party) extended warranty. This sort of thing gets very expensive, very quickly. You need to buy it while the vehicle is under the original bumper-to-bumper warranty.

How hard would it have been for dodge to have given the front edges of the storage compartments a sloped front? It would have made the space bigger and improved the aerodynamics on the underside a bit - and probably reduced the noise somewhat.

Can you just split this into two threads?

There's no hard drive in the RE6. The person didn't know what he was writing about. The RE6 is the RE2 without the Sirius receiver. It is intended for foreign markets that don't have DBS service.

I don't know - maybe I am just used to it after 5 years of Journeys, but I don't recall being surprised at the noise . . . . then I DO have my vehicles rustproofed because it mitigates corrosion issues that eventually leads to bad grounds and such so maybe the damping effect of the stuff they spray dampens it al down. The $85 a year for the rustproofing might be money well spent if it quiets the vehicle for you - and the fact that your vehicle will likely benefit from the treatment is a definite plus.

correct - any display and digitiser from a 2011 and later Journey will work, though it is generally accepted that it is preferable to use the same or later versions of a part (higher suffix code) . . . are you certain, however that it is the display and not a loose plug or the radio that is the problem?

The Journey does not officially support the AN - you are stuck with the RE2 and RB5. Maybe after the redesign.