bramfrank

If I stick an SD card into the slot and have music on it everything works, including album art.

In Canada that's the only way the Crossroad comes

My phone delivers text messages to the screen and offers to either display or speak them to me. It offers me only canned messages for replying. It would be nice to be able to edit those messages or to dictate replies. Unfortunately as you indicated, the Bluetooth connection does not handle metadata for music, at least not with my phone. I use a Galaxy S5 these days. I love the uConnect - and so does the market. The interface is acknowledged by many to be the best in the industry. http://www.digitaltrends.com/infotainment-system-reviews/chrysler-uconnect-review/

For 2015 the limited is one above the Crossroad FWD - the R/T is above the Limited. The Rallye was a bastard model - sort of like a somewhat decontented base R/T. The US has altogether too many variants and models. For 2015 it was: AVP / SE Plus / SXT / Crossroad / Limited / R/T . . . and then the oddball R/T Rallye For 2016 the lineup is: SE / SXT / Crossroad / Crossroad Plus / R/T

It was the redone interior that pushed me into my '11 - the old one looked like crap.

The grab handles (at least in front) are another upscale feature (my Crossroad has them). You get them on Canadian SXTs I believe - there's a HUGE difference between the specifics of the trim levels of similarly named models in Canada vs. the US. Automatic headlights are actually a fairly expensive thing to add - you need a new light switch assembly ad you need a replacement light sensor assembly - then the feature code needs to be enabled by the dealer. If they gave all those little features in the base model no one would ever buy the upscale ones.

OP stated that the shop he went to told him his fluid levels were good. But then said that he had to top up with water - note that water won't kill the engine in the short term unless the engine is run hard or the coolant is allowed to freeze. White smoke is coolant, not oil. This could be as 'simple' as a head gasket, or it could be a cracked block or head - expensive at a minimum, very expensive otherwise. It could have been caused by a bad water pump - if the impeller failed there would have been no circulation, resulting in the overheat condition that in turn caused the gasket, block and/or head to fail, allowing coolant to be mixed with the oil. The cylinder walls and rings may very well be fine, but if there was coolant in the oil (the oil would be a milky white) then there is a potential for internal damage to bushes, bearings, rings and anything else internal that's normally oil lubricated.

Maybe a badly adjusted door switch? I'd guess the rear hatch one.

Rustproofing is a good option for any new vehicle in ANY environment - the spray will protect electrical connections and grounding points and will dampen any buzzy components, though your mechanic might not like it so much. I never bothered doing it every year, but every few - just to keep things covered - never had a serious rust issue and even a 13 year old vehicle driven year round in a heavily salted environment worked perfectly until the end. It is worth the $80 it costs.

You'll probably get better responses by starting your own topic, rather than extending someone else's. What do you mean by 'not starting'? Does it crank, but doesn't catch? Does it do nothing? Does it click, but not crank? Is your battery dead? Did you leave something open that caused the battery to drain? What lights are on when you try to start the vehicle? Do the interior lights, door locks and radio work normally during this no-start condition? That you had a check engine light implies that unless you start it a bunch of times before you get the vehicle to the dealer, they can read the code and use it to help located the problem.

Why is everyone jumping on the OP? She has never had to deal with problems and she was candid enough to admit it. Some of the comments and questions made by those in the topic are likely also potential targets for derision. As my father used to say; If you don't have something nice to say, shut your pie hole. (Not that I listened to him much back then, or sometimes even now). But this thread was just mean spirited.

I like the RB5 - the non-premium sound system is excellent and the nav does everything I need it to - there's a reason uconnect is rated as the best infotainment system in the industry.

Notices will be sent starting December 4. This is a preventative recall. The likelihood of a failure affecting your safety is very low. I'm not overly concerned with this one.

I wonder if Hella Micro DE fogs would be easy to fit . . . . . they aren't expensive and they throw a ton of yellow light.

Note that even with the child locks disabled pulling the handle will not unlock the door - the child locks prevent the door from bring opened from inside altogether. With them disabled the handles can open the doors if they aren't locked. Pulling the handles will not unlock the rear doors.

Actually intermittent fuses were quite common with fast-blow fuses from the old AG (glass tube) series that used to be in common use - the filament in relatively low current devices could suffer mechanical failure by stretching due to vibration and separate. The strands would flail about and, because they were straight wires that had been stretched somewhat, if the ends touched they'd 'weld' together - and the process could repeat over and over - and they'd look just fine on a visual inspection. The box style cartridge fuses of the type the DJ uses in the engine bay have cheap metal connection pins - if you get moisture into the fuse block they can corrode and become intermittent - I had that with the '11 - about 3 months after I had the car detailed I lost two of the fuses because they had pressure washed the engine and water got into the box - the door locks and blower went weird . . . . . and the sockets on the fuses were white with corrosion - lots of contact cleaner and brushing of the contacts in the fuse well and a couple of new fuses and it was all good again. And that's how fuses get to be intermittent.

The pins on the box fuses the Journey uses can corrode and the connection can become intermittent. BTDT . . . . so only one of us is wrong . . . . and that'd be you.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but they certainly CAN become intermittent.

It could just as easily be a bad radio or even an intermittent fuse - does the system go dead? Or does the screen simply not light up and everything still actually works? Check eBay for screens - $123 gets you one from a wrecked vehicle with a 30 day warranty.

Ummm, Mr Badbilly62; if you bothered to actually read what I wrote, you'll discover that the reason I posted the link was to provide you with the information you requested; specifically how to access the back of the power socket.

He said he's using the USB in the console rather than the power socket . . . do they both use the same fuse? It COULD be the charger that's at fault. But what the heck? He asked how to get to the socket, so I explained it.

Check the fuse FIRST. How about the socket in the console or the one behind the console? It's actually not hard to get to the back of the socket . . . . you remove the two chrome-like trim pieces on either side of the pushbuttons (with a PROPER trim tool), then the 2 screws holding the pushbuttons in place and remove the lower stack - you may also have to remove the radio (I don't remember if it is accessible with the radio in place, but it's only a matter of 4 more screws) the socket is behind and to the right. Dis-assembly instructions are in the opening pages of the backup camera instruction manual: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861161.pdf

The manual says it too.

It WILL lock with the fob inside, but only after three warning unlockings. That makes it only idiot resistant, not idiot-proof.

Sorry to hear about how this all played out. If you had concerns you probably should have insisted that the dealer show you the damage before the repairs were done. And, of course, if your insurance would have covered the damage under comprehensive coverage without deductible (assuming it was caused by a road hazard) the time to file a claim was before the repair was authorised. I hope you discussed the possibility of a claim with your insurer before authorising the work. Two weeks might seem like a lot, but the warehouse almost certainly does not keep gas tanks lying around since the only reason to replace one would normally be due to an accident. At least you have it back and running.